Re: 1992 240 Gl, Windshield air vent/defroster has almost...
Wow...here it is spring and no one answered either of you? Is there a large volume of air when fan is on high? Where is it going? Or do you not hear anything from the fan? The 240 has an awesome heater. On high it would heat a small home! If no sound, your blower motor is dead assuming the fuse is good. If you hear the fan blowing, figure out where the air IS going. Note that the only way to turn the dash vents off is with the white Oreo dials. To defrost, only that button should be pressed in and dash vents off. Behind the dash switches there is a maze of short vacuum hoses. Often times, people monkey w/ these and reconnect them incorrectly. Haynes manual or Chilton's have proper diagrams. It could be that the vacuum hose coming from the manifold and entering the firewall is split on the under side and not visible, also.
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Looks like your mechanic messed up. If he has any integrity then he should take care of you. If not and you want to try and tackle it yourself then you have to ask yourself this: do I want to pull the dash out? Because that is what that will entail. Sounds like he may have messed up the ducting somehow. Unless the blend doors and directional doors are electric actuator operated in which case those actuators need to be replaced
With the car parked and engine idling, turn the ventilation control between windshield defroster and "open air ducts" to front and rear vents. Listen to pinpoint where the valves are that open and closes the air ducts. It sounds like the air duct to rear vents are blocked, and the cold air in rear air duct is coming from "outside ventilation." The air vent to allow hot air to the rear vent is stuck in "open ventilation" mode, like when you're driving in spring or summer months.
Common question on this site. On late model cars, the vents are controlled by blend door motors. Small electric motors open and close doors to direct air flow. Chances are you have a blend door that is stuck or a failed motor. The default position is the defrost to make sure the windshield is always clear. Someone will need to look behind the dash to see if all of the doors will move on demand.
So you have the vent settings to blow out of the windshield vents and still have fogging?
You can dry out the air more quickly if you use the air conditioner setting. It sounds backwards, but this is exactly what the manual in my older car said to do. (Some cars are electronic control and won't let you do this however - or they do it automatically with the defrost vent settings).
For the older car, I would set the heat to the hottest setting and press in the a/c button. The a/c dries out the air, but it does not have to be set to run cold.
Another thing that could help is to make sure that you do not have the vents set for "recycling" the air. The picture should look like a u shapped arrow. Make sure it is not pressed in.
Inside the heater box (under the dashboard) there are actuators that are similar to the ones that open your power door locks, they do go bad especially if any water leaks in from a bad heater core or windshield leak.(down the defrost vent grate). Also old age, my truck is a 2000 and I have replaced a couple of actuators.