Question about Mitsubishi Pickup
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: selecting 4 wheeled drive
Have you check the driv aksel on left and right side, if you have a bad drive shaft , you shall hear a noise specily if you turn the steering to full right ore left. And so can you check the drive shaft betwen the aksel and the reduction gearbox.Have you check the oil in the front diff , if the are metall partikel in the oil? if the are mettal partickle in the oil , you must check the diff
Posted on Nov 26, 2008
I've had the same situation. I found the problem to be the Hi-Lo gear shift was not locked in place. In other words, it was between Hi and Lo. While the truck was off, I moved the gearshift from Hi back to Lo back to Hi, making sure it was in Hi gear. Then, after starting the car and traveling down the road, I found that the 4WD would disengage with the button.
Posted on Feb 07, 2009
SOURCE: 4WD selected but only RWD active
Your sami sounds as if the either the lockers, the axles or the transfer box are not doing too good... An open locker or a broken axle will steal all the power going to the front of the car. A transfer problem is also a good reason for this kind of thing, but this usualy happens with some noise, so you'd probably know if the transfer was bad. The front axle hub a.k.a. the diff can also be bad. I'd take off both lockers - 12 screws on each and a circlip (make sure they are in the free position ). You can now see the axles themselves and try to rotate them manually. While engaged in 4wd - they should not move more than a 1/4 turn. If both move free your diff or transfer box are bad, depending whether you see the front driveshaft moving or not. If drvshft is moving - transfer is bad. If not - the diff is gone. If only one is free - your axle is broken. Not a biggie to diagnose but one hell of a pita to fix... I'd advise you to head to the shop and and have a pro fix it. Cheers emi
Posted on Mar 12, 2009
This is a car with fixed wheel hubs ? not auto or manual locks ?
First test the shifter on the transfer box is ok - just push for 4wd with the car running but not moveing then see if you can shift into low range easy - if you can ,carry on reading if not its the transfer box motor at fault .
You need to check out the vacumme pipes on the valves on the front axle . On the axle you will see an actuator looks like half a dumbell with two pipes on . In 2wd the pipe furthest from the wheel is sucking and it 4wd the one nearest is .
If you dont have this check the vac pipes and the grey and blue solenoid valves - the grey one is a good place to start it sticks .
Posted on Jan 07, 2010
SOURCE: I have a 1998 Ford
Hello, Try to have Autozone, Advance, Or Oreillys scan your Explorers onboard computer. Sometimes the intermittent problems will show and sometimes they don't. The scans are free at these 3 companies.
It sounds like corrosion in a connector plug by the Transfer case. Someone will need to go under the vehicle and look at the connectors to the transmission too. You should be driving in 2 wheel on dry roads. Some of the servos were Vacuum operated and if you find a Vacuum hose leading to the Transfer servo, check the servo for a leaking diaphram by using Vacuum.
The Explorers have been around for years and both systems were used. On the electrically activated units, the Selector switch in the dash used different voltages going through a common wire (1 wire). When there was an electric defect, the Selector could not be trusted to represent the correct position of the switch.
Posted on Jul 03, 2011
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