Question about 1993 Ford Taurus

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Water pump repair 93 taurus

I cant get the long bolts back into the block and put the water pump at the same time-not enough clearance.

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  • banjostev Sep 24, 2008

    That worked! Thank you!



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Loosen the side motor mount and carefully jack the engine up a few inches (careful not to damage the pan), bolts will then you will have enough clearance.

Posted on Sep 23, 2008


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1998 cadillac deville: I have replaced the water pump, thermostat and all gaskets. It looks like water is leaking between water pump housing and block. Any sugestions or advise on repairing?

If your sure the seal on the water pump is good, I would suggest go to the auto parts store and buying a new water pump gasket. Sorry to tell you this, but take the pump off again. When you have removed the pump, scrape and clean both the engine block at the pump housing, and the pump back to shiny metal( this happened to me a couple of years ago, rushed the job, and gasket was not properly seated).Now that both are clean, put a thin coat of gasket sealant on the pump, and put the gasket on. Apply some sealant to the block housing.Put two bolts(across from each other) in the pump housing before installing(to keep the gasket lined up) and reinstall the pump. Give it a couple of hours for the sealant to set up, then give it a try. don't forget to top the fluids. I think you just pinched the gasket( happens all the time), and is giving the fluid a gap to leak. try this, and let me know

Jan 05, 2011 | 2002 Ford Taurus

3 Answers

Proper installation procedure for replacing water pump.

Go to autozone web site they have a help on line feature.

Dec 03, 2010 | 1999 Pontiac Montana

1 Answer

Water pump removal

Never open, service or drain the radiator or cooling system when hot; serious burns can occur from the steam and hot coolant. Also, when draining engine coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted to ethylene glycol antifreeze and could drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantities. Always drain coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or is several years old. 1.8L Engine
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Drain the cooling system.
  3. Remove the timing belt.
  4. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  5. Remove the engine oil dipstick tube bracket bolt(s) from the water pump.
  6. Remove the two bolts and the gasket from the water inlet pipe.
  7. Remove all but the uppermost water pump mounting bolt.
  8. Lower the vehicle.
  9. Remove the remaining bolts and the water pump assembly.
  10. If the water pump is being reused, remove all gasket material from the water pump.
  11. Remove all gasket material from the engine block. Fig. 1: Exploded view of a water pump mounting - 1.8L engine 86753048.gif
    To install:
  12. Install a new gasket onto the water pump.
  13. Place the water pump into its mounting position, then install the uppermost bolt.
  14. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  15. Install the remaining water pump mounting bolts and tighten all bolts to 14-19 ft. lbs. (19-25 Nm).
  16. Install a new gasket onto the water inlet pipe.
  17. Install the two bolts from the water inlet pipe to the water pump and tighten to 14-19 ft. lbs. (19-25 Nm).
  18. Install the bolt to the engine oil dipstick tube bracket.
  19. Lower the vehicle.
  20. Install the timing belt.
  21. Fill the cooling system.
  22. Connect the negative battery cable.
  23. Start the engine and allow it to reach operating temperature. Check for coolant leaks.
  24. Check the coolant level and add coolant, as necessary.
1.9L Engine
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Drain the cooling system.
  3. Remove the timing belt cover and the timing belt.
  4. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  5. Remove the lower radiator hose from the water pump.
  6. Remove the heater hose from the water pump.
  7. Lower the vehicle.
  8. Support the engine with a suitable hydraulic floor jack.
  9. Remove the right engine mount attaching bolts and roll the engine mount aside.
  10. Remove the water pump attaching bolts.
  11. Using the floor jack, raise the engine enough to provide clearance for removing the water pump.
  12. Remove the water pump and gasket from the engine through the top of the engine compartment. Fig. 2: Disconnect the lower radiator hose (A) from the water pump (B) 90983p45.jpg
    Fig. 3: Disconnect the heater hose (A) from the water pump (B) 90983p46.jpg
    Fig. 4: Remove the water pump's lower mounting bolts (arrows) . . . 90983p47.jpg
    Fig. 5: . . . and the upper mounting bolts 90983p44.jpg
    Fig. 6: After raising the engine enough to provide clearance, remove the pump from the engine compartment 90983p49.jpg
    Fig. 7: Use a scraper to clean the mating surfaces of the cylinder block and water pump 90983p50.jpg
    To install:
  13. Make sure the mating surfaces of the cylinder block and water pump are clean and free of gasket material.
  14. If the water pump is to be replaced, transfer the timing belt tensioner components to the new water pump.
  15. With the engine supported and raised with a suitable floor jack, place the water pump and the gasket on the cylinder block and install the four attaching bolts. Tighten the bolts to 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm).
  16. Install the timing belt and cover.
  17. Roll the engine mount into position and install the mount bolts. Remove the floor jack.
  18. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  19. Connect the heater hose to the pump.
  20. Lower the vehicle.
  21. Connect the negative battery cable.
  22. Refill the cooling system.
  23. Start the engine, allow it to reach normal operating temperature and check for coolant leaks.
  24. Check the coolant level and add as necessary.
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Nov 08, 2010 | 1999 Ford Escort

1 Answer

How to replace the water pump on a 1992 geo tracker 1.6 liter engine

During these procedures, identify all components removed from the engine so that they may be reinstalled in their original positions. If discarding the old components so that new components can be installed, identifying the old items is not necessary.

1.3L and 1.6L Engines

  1. Remove the timing belt cover, timing belt, tensioner, plate and spring.
  2. Remove the water pump mounting bolts.
  3. Remove the one (1.6L MFI engines) or two (1.3L and 1.6L TFI engines) small rubber seals from between the water pump and the oil pump, and the water pump and the cylinder head.
  4. If necessary for clearance, remove the oil level dipstick tube retaining bolt from the engine block and the alternator adjusting brace.

Fig. 1: Exploded view of the water pump mounting

WARNING Do NOT use a prybar between the water pump housing and the engine block to separate the two components; this can cause scratches and/or gouges, which can prevent proper sealing.
  1. Pull the water pump off of the engine block. If the water pump is difficult to remove from the engine block, use a soft-faced mallet to tap the water pump housing until it loosens.
Do not disassemble the water pump; if the water pump is damaged or defective, the entire unit is replaced.
  1. Thoroughly clean the water pump gasket mating surfaces of old gasket material and corrosion.
To install:
  1. Along with a new gasket, install the water pump on the engine block. Tighten the water pump mounting bolts to 88-115 inch lbs. (10-13 Nm).
  2. On 1.3L and TFI 1.6L engines, install two new rubber seals: one between the water pump and oil pump, and the other between the water pump and the cylinder head. The MFI 1.6L engines only use one rubber seal, located between the water and oil pumps.
  1. If removed, install the alternator adjusting brace and the oil level dipstick retaining bolt.
  2. Install the timing belt, tensioner, plate, spring and cover.

Hope helps (remember comment and rated this).

Jul 19, 2010 | 1991 Geo Storm

1 Answer

Car is overheating, im trying to change the water pump and the thermostat. but i cant get the water pump off, and i cant find the thermostat

The thermostat is at the back of the engine, the upper radiator hose is connected to the thermostat housing, there are 3 10mm bolts holding it on. I'd check for maybe a missed bolt on the water pump, I know there is alot of bolts holding it on.

Jun 02, 2010 | 1998 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

I'm trying to replace the failed water pump for my 2005 grand caravan. I've removed the pully bolts and housing bolts and moved the pully inward between the pump housing and the hub, but don't seem to have...

you can pry the engine over.. there will be just enough clearance to get
it passed the frame... just be carefull when prying it over not to slip cause you'll break the water pump on installation if the engine rocks back.

Feb 12, 2010 | 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan

1 Answer

How do you replace a water pump in a 1994 ford taurus 3.0

first unhookd battery,drain coolant,take serpentine belt off,loosen 5 bolts take water pump off,install new gasket,tight five bolts put serp. belt back on,refill with coolant

Jan 09, 2010 | 1994 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

Water pump

Most Taurus's came with either a 3.0 or a 3.8 engine. The water pump replacement is basically the same for both engines. Remove the coolant jug, break loose the bolts on the w/pump pulley, remove the belt, remove the pulley, remove the alternator, remove to power steering pump and set it aside. (you will need a power steering pulley puller and installer kit). remove any belt tensioners or brackets that hang in the way, remove the bolts holding the water pump to the timing cover, and remove the water pump.
Note: a 3.8 has extra-long water pump bolts that you may have to pull almost all the way out and then bring them out with the water pump assembly.
Helpful hint: Both the 3.0 and 3.8 have 2 motor mounts located on the passenger's side of the vehicle that are held to the sub frame by a large nut(approx 7/8" (front) 17.5mm (Back)). One is on the RF corner, the other is back by the firewall under the car on the sub frame. If you jack up the car and remove those nuts, the engine can be raised a little using a floor jack with a block of wood under the oil pan to give additional clearance at the fender apron to get the water pump in and out.
After removing the water pump, scrape gasket surface thoroughly, and install new pump. Evenly tighten the bolts, and reassemble the vehicle in the reverse order as dis-assembly. Fill with new coolant and burp out any air in the system. If you have a cooling system pressure tester, pressurize the system to verify there are no leaks.
If it is anything like the 96 GL Taurus. Then there are 4, 13mm nuts on the water pump and 3, 10mm bolts underneath and 3 hoses to disconnect from pump. You may want to remove the inside cover of the wheel surround to get access to the 10mm nuts under the water pump. If more room required, remove tyre from car.
You can remove the water reservoir to give yourself a bit more room when removing the water pump, but is not necessary.
remove the serpentine belt buy using a 3/8 ratchet (socket wrench) on the belt tensioner located just under the power steering pump. Releasing the tension by pulling towards the front of the car.

Tip - MUST HAVE ToolFor anyone working on a car's cooling system, you MUST check out the MUST-HAVE tool for dealing with those spring-type hose clamps!!

This tool has a pinching device on the end to securely grab the 'ears' on the hose clamp - squeeze the handle to open the clamp, and then automatically lock it open.

The next awesome feature of this tool: the clamping action is on the end of a cable - you work it down to the clamp buried down underneath, or directly next to some part of the engine - minimal clearance required.
The very very best $40 you will ever invest into your tool collection!

Sears makes one - check it out at a local store and linked below.

Nov 08, 2009 | 1998 Ford Taurus

1 Answer


Unfortunately, I've had this exact same issue with my F-150 5.0L... The pump bolts go through the timing chain cover and into the block. However, if you're lucky, once you finally do get the timing cover off(which will have to be removed at this point), you might have enough bolt hanging out of the block to get a grip on and possibly back the rest of the way out. There is a penetrating spray on the market called PB Blaster that is the very best at freeing up seized bolts. Spray it down really good and give it a day or so to penetrate. Not too sure of what size of easy-out you'd need, but I ended up having to drill mine out and putting in helo-coils. It's a real pain, but aside from junking the block, it's about the only option available. One more thing...if you do get all of your bolts out, before trying to put them back in, make sure to take an air compressor and blow out all of the bolt holes as they tend to get a lot of corrosion inside that will, 99% of the time, cause even more snapped bolts when trying to reinstall your new water pump, as this is what happened to me. Hope this helps and from one guy who's had to deal with this headache to another getting ready to...good luck, and no matter what you might begin to think, a gallon of gas and a match are not a better way of dealing with it, though it will sound tempting. Try to have a nice day!

Nov 23, 2008 | 2002 Ford E350

3 Answers

Replace water pump

REMOVAL: 1) Remove the plastic belt routing diagram (there is a bolt underneath if I remember correctly)(yep, 8mm). 2) Using a 3/8 breaker bar or a ratchet, insert into the belt tensioner and push toward the back of the engine enough to release tension on the belt with one hand, and with the other hand, remove the belt from the water pump pulley. Then remove the bar/ratchet from the tensioner. 3) Remove the 4 bolts holding the shiny pulley onto the water pump (11mm). 3a) Large catchpan underneath, there's more coolant in there than it looks like. 4) With a ratchet and possibly a short extension, carefully remove the 5 bolts that hold the water pump onto the block (8mm). 5) Pry the water pump away from the block and clean both surfaces so they are free of gasket material. INSTALL: 1) Line up the gasket and *carefully* fit the new water pump onto the block. The holes are very easy to line up wrong because they are almost, but not quite, equally spaced from each other, so be VERY careful you have all 5 holes lined up right. 2) Screw each bolt in a few tuns to make sure they all go in smoothly. If you get any resistance (it will feel like it's crossthreaded), you have the holes wrong, and you need to rotate the water pump so the holes are lined up right. I can't stress this enough. 3) Torque all the bolts down (I can't recall the exact in/lbs - sorry) in a star pattern. 4) Mount the pulley onto the water pump shaft, torque bolts down (an air ratchet helps greatly here as the shaft will try to spin when the bolts start getting tight). 5) Release the tension as explained in step 2 at the top, put the belt back on the water pump pulley & double check to make sure it's on all the other pulleys while you're at it. 6) Bolt the plastic bolt routing diagram back onto the head. 7) Refill the resevoir and bleed the system of air. That's it! It's an hour or so job if you've never done it before. Note, if you're not using a gasket, get some water pump gasket sealer and make a gasket around the entire diameter of the mounting surface of the water pump. Remember to make little circles around the bolt holes also.

May 15, 2008 | 1999 Pontiac Montana

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