the starter is brand new on my 89 silverado.i thought the old starter was the cause of locking up and grinding on the flexplate.the new starter is doing the samething only in the morning.the starter is brand new on my 89 silverado.i thought the old starter was the cause of locking up and grinding on the flexplate.the new starter is doing the samething only in the morning.
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Re: Starter motor locks up on my 89 silverado only in the...
If the starters old it gets build up on the insides & on cold mornings the steel contracts cuasing the soliniod to lock up try pooring hot water over the solinoid part of the starter motor as a quik fix :)
maby your baterys losing charge over night or there's a wiring fualt.. ive come across this problem once or twice before but fpr the life of me cant remember the solution sorry try connecting to an expert they should beable to help you :)maby your baterys losing charge over night or there's a wiring fualt.. ive come across this problem once or twice before but fpr the life of me cant remember the solution sorry try connecting to an expert they should beable to help you :)
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Do you have a spare Key ? The key is probably the most likely cause of your problem. Shorting the two main terminals of the starter motor will only make the starter spin, to engage the starter with th fly-wheel you need to short the main lead (usually the outer one) with the solenoid terminal (smaller terminal) However this will not energise th fuel solenoid etc that the security system also disables. You should have your key cloned at your local lock smith retailer before it fails all together. I am an auto-electrician and seen this many a time. good luck.
When you turn the key to start does the starter engage an spin the engine ? or nothing happens .
the lights and music come on but the motor will not start when I turn the key ??????? Will not start how ?
crank - no - start or no crank no start . ????????
If the lower pulley on the front of the engine does not turn when the starter is engaged then the problem is either that the flywheel is missing teeth (usually very noisy) or the bendix drive in the starter has broken. That is replaceable if you are good with that kind of thing but if the starter is old, it may not be worth the effort. (so just change the starter). There could also be a problem with the front pulley but that is extremely rare.
Negative battery cable from the remote ground postBattery feed and posi-lock connectorsNuts from the catalyst support bracket and mountStarter heat shield3 starter-to-engine/transaxle boltsStarter by rotating it toward the engine and sliding it rearward between the catalyst and the engine mount
To install:
Install or connect the following:
Starter by sliding it forward between the catalyst and the engine mount and rotating it away from the engineStarter and torque the 3 starter-to-engine/transaxle bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm)Starter heat shieldNuts to the catalyst support bracket and mountPositive battery cable and torque the nut to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm)Posi-lock connectorsNegative battery cable to the remote ground post
3.2L & 3.5L Engines
Remove or disconnect the following:
Negative battery cable from the remote ground postStarter-to-engine/transaxle nut and boltsPositive battery feed wire from the starterStarter and position it to gain access to the posi-lock connector
Place a support under the engine and slightly relieve the pressure from the left engine mount.
Remove the 3 left engine mount-to-engine bolts.
Slightly, raise the engine to provide more room.
Remove the starter by sliding it rearward between the catalyst and the engine mount.
Remove the posi-lock connector.
Fig. Removal and installation of the starter motor
To install:
Install or connect the following:
Posi-lock connectorStarter by sliding it forward between the catalyst and the engine mount
Slightly, lower the engine.
3 left engine mount-to-engine boltsPositive battery feed wire to the starter and torque the nut to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm)Starter and torque the starter-to-engine/transaxle bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm)Negative battery cable to the remote ground post
Remove or disconnect the following:
Negative battery cable from the remote ground post
Battery feed and posi-lock connectors
Nuts from the catalyst support bracket and mount
Starter heat shield
3 starter-to-engine/transaxle bolts
Starter by rotating it toward the engine and sliding it rearward
between the catalyst and the engine mount
To install:
Install or connect the following:
Starter by sliding it forward between the catalyst and the engine
mount and rotating it away from the engine
Starter and torque the 3 starter-to-engine/transaxle bolts to 40
ft. lbs. (54 Nm)
Starter heat shield
Nuts to the catalyst support bracket and mount
Positive battery cable and torque the nut to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm)
Posi-lock connectors
Negative battery cable to the remote ground post
3.2L & 3.5L Engines
Remove or disconnect the following:
Negative battery cable from the remote ground post
Starter-to-engine/transaxle nut and bolts
Positive battery feed wire from the starter
Starter and position it to gain access to the posi-lock connector
Place a support under the engine and slightly relieve the pressure
from the left engine mount.
Remove the 3 left engine mount-to-engine bolts.
Slightly, raise the engine to provide more room.
Remove the starter by sliding it rearward between the catalyst and
the engine mount.
Remove the posi-lock connector.
Fig. Removal and installation of the starter motor
To install:
Install or connect the following:
Posi-lock connector
Starter by sliding it forward between the catalyst and the engine
mount
Slightly, lower the engine.
3 left engine mount-to-engine bolts
Positive battery feed wire to the starter and torque the nut to 89
inch lbs. (10 Nm)
Starter and torque the starter-to-engine/transaxle bolts to 40 ft.
lbs. (54 Nm)
Negative battery cable to the remote ground post
Sounds like a bad starter, solenoid, or loose battery cable going to the starter. The clicking is the solenoid activating, so the most common problem is the contacts inside it get worn out, so it doesn't provide power to the starter motor. So if the battery cable connection there is bad, it won't kick the motor on. If it's good, then either the solenoid is transferring the power, and your starter won't turn over, or the solenoid isn't transferring the power at all. If you remove the starter, you should be able to have it tested at a parts store.
Right front wheel and fender splash shield, on 6.6L engines
Turbocharger exhaust pipe, on 6.6L engines
Mounting bolts/nuts and shim, if used
Starter
Wires
Heat shield and bracket
Exploded view of the starter motor-6.5L engine shown
To install:
Install or connect the following:
Heat shield and bracket. Torque the bolts to 13 ft lbs. (17 Nm).
Wires.Torque battery wire nut to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm), and ignition nut to 18inch lbs. (2 Nm) on 6.5L engines. On 6.6L engines, tighten the solenoidnut to 30 inch lbs. (3.4 Nm) and the positive battery cable nut to 80inch lbs. (9 Nm).
Starter
Mounting bolts/nuts and shim,if used. Torque the bolts to 33 ft lbs. (45 Nm) and the nut to 75 inchlbs. (8.5 Nm) for 6.5L engines. For 6.6L engines tighten the starterbolts to 58 ft. lbs. (78 Nm).
Turbocharger exhaust pipe, on 6.6L engines
Right front fender splash shield and wheel, on 6.6L engines
the starter is brand new on my 89 silverado.i thought the old starter was the cause of locking up and grinding on the flexplate.the new starter is doing the samething only in the morning.
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