Question about 2000 Suzuki Vitara
My suzuki grand vitara 2-door 2000 model, died on me TWICE while stuck in a jam that didn't move for more than 20 minutes. the engine just kaput suddenly. i couldnt re-start it. it would make some sound but the engine just refused to spark up. the temp gauge didn't indicate overheated or anything as the needle was still on the left, below the midway mark. i waited for a good 5 minutes or so before i tried again. then it started. yes, i got myself out of the mess but i need to know why it happened. i have a feeling it will happen again should i be caught in another stationery jam. i sent to my workshop and explained the problem but because there was no indication or anything on the dashboard and the car was running normal, they couldn't diagnose anything. anyone with any suggestion on this? could it be a faulty temp sensor that thought the engine was overheated when in actual fact it wasn't and hence, cut off the engine?
Hey they all do, eventually and for sure never doing tune-ups.
ever get one in the last decade, no >? wow.
then posting with no engine stated, and is and ENGINE problem
and no country stated,
we have (USA) 3 engines, other countries, up to 7 offered and diesels.
truth is it can be 50 reasons to stall,
that shop can not fix cars that are not broken, !! unless SUPER LUCKY.
they scan it and see nada. because its long gone the cause.
it's called a stall.
and stalls are simple in physics, or in theory but have 50 causes, in parts causes, a and about 1 to 10 tests to find.
there is the truth for yah.
cause 1 is not it, lost 12vdc to EFI system.
cause 2, can you save the stall with fast right foot.?
you waited 5 minute to try again, why?
most do it in 1second to avoid getting rear ended.... wow.
that was brave.
if it starts right back up. it can be vast numbers of things.
1: bad engine, (say a valve stuck open and stalled)
2: bad spark, say not getting a tuneup it 17 years. wow....
3: bad fueling, say bad gas or leaking injectors or dead.
now the mid size list , tests.
say you have tools and can use them,, many guys can.
for sure old guys.. who did for 60 long years.
tests and inspections etc.:
compression ok, at spec, (a tool)
spark plugs new if gas engine.
no engine stated but bad cops. J20 or H engines have them.
or bad boots on said cops none last 17 years, NONE.
bad filters, air and fuel
bad fuel, old fuel or water contaminated. might be gone now....
injector tests, pressure, and leakdown tests, and injector balance testing.
Or just want a guess.
never tuned up ever
never once did the 60,000 mile repeating service points.
at the least.
.or EGR stuck open and stalled and will repeat.
the key factor was, preventing the stall with a fast right foot
you didnt so we can never know whats cause.
this adds air, doing that, and if it recovers easy.
it is a good clue.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It could mean that some emission-control device has failed or is due for replacment. Common items would be oxygen sensor (not too expensive) and catalytic convertor (pretty expensive).
Posted on Oct 09, 2008
Take your rig.. drive it to a gas station.. fill the tank up with gas.. also fill 2 jugs of gasoline at the same time... put the jugs in the back of it.. now drive as far as you can until the rig runs out of gas.. then, take the two jugs of gas.. pour it all over the rig, inside and out.. now light it a-blaze, then walk to your nearest car dealer and buy a new car..
Posted on Mar 19, 2009
If you jump-started it and ran it for five minutes then it started fine, it's not the alternator. I would get an ammeter and check the current drain when everything is off (as it would be when the car is locked, armed, etc). I can't remember the exact figure I was once told, but it was of the order of 0.2 Amp (200mA). More than this, and batteries start getting drained progressively faster. The last car I had with this problem turned out to have a huge amplifier (sound system) that wasn't being switched off by the ignition or the stereo unit. Don't know how much it was drawing, but a cut-out feature on the ammeter saved it from having a meltdown.
Posted on Sep 21, 2009
SOURCE: engine cuts out after reasonable
These things are hard to diagnose, so I will recommend something to try. My first guess is that your fuel pump is cutting off due to a weak relay. The way to find out is to swap the fuel pump relay with another similar relay, such as the horn relay. The relays are usually found in the relay box under the hood. Another thing you can do to verify that this is a fuel issue is to stop and shut off the car the next time this happens. Open the hood and pull out the fuel pump relay. Then try to start the car like you usually do. If the car starts as usual, the problem is not with the fuel pump or relay. Put the relay back in. If the car didn't start but does after the relay has been in (and assuming the relay is now a good one), the pump is acting up.
If this doesn't resolve your problem, next I would consider electrical issues. You can reply back to me at that point, but I hope this does it for you. :o)
Posted on Dec 08, 2010
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