How do u remove a transfer case - 2000 Oldsmobile Bravada

Get yourself a service manual.

How to Remove a Chevy Blazer Rear Transfer Case The transfer case on a Chevrolet Blazer is underneath the vehicle, mounted to the rear of the transmission. On four-wheel drive vehicles, the transfer case takes power generated by the engine and channeled through the transmission and directs it to the front and rear drive axles. Over time, the gears and bearings inside the transfer case can wear and the transfer case must be rebuilt. The transfer case on this vehicle must be removed before it can be serviced.
Things You'll Need

• Wrench set
• Floor jack
• Jack stands
• Socket set
• Masking tape
• Marker
• Needle-nose pliers

Hide Instructions

1. Removing the Driveshafts
   • 1 Disconnect the ground cable from the negative battery terminal, by using a wrench to loosen the retaining bolt and pulling the clamp off the terminal.
     

2 Raise the vehicle and support with jack stands placed underneath the frame.

3 Drain the transfer case. Locate the drain plug near the bottom of the transfer case. Place a waste oil collection pan underneath the plug and use a socket to remove it. Once all the fluid has drained out, reinstall the plug.

4 Remove the bolts that connect the rear driveshaft to the rear axle yoke using a socket. Lower the driveshaft, and slide it backward underneath the rear axle to disengage it from the transfer case. Remove it from the vehicle.

5 Remove the bolts that connect the front driveshaft to the front axle yoke using a socket. Lower the driveshaft, and slide it forward underneath the front axle to disengage it from the transfer case. Remove the driveshaft from the vehicle.

Removing the Transfer Case

• 6 Label and disconnect the electrical wires and vacuum lines connected to the transfer case. Use masking tape and a marker.
  
• 7 Remove the transfer case shifter rod. Using needle-nose pliers, remove the clip that connects the shifter rod to the transfer case. Slide the rod away from the transfer case.
  
• 8 Position a floor jack underneath the transfer case. Raise it enough to take the weight of the transfer case off the transmission.
  
• 9 Remove the bolts that connect the transfer case to the transmission using a socket or wrench.
  
• 10 Slide the transfer case rearward to disengage it from the transfer case. Lower the floor jack, and remove the transfer case from the vehicle
  

• Disconnect the ground cable from the negative battery terminal, by using a wrench to loosen the retaining bolt and pulling the clamp off the terminal.
  

• 2

  Raise the vehicle and support with jack stands placed underneath the frame.
  

• 3

  Drain the transfer case. Locate the drain plug near the bottom of the transfer case. Place a waste oil collection pan underneath the plug and use a socket to remove it. Once all the fluid has drained out, reinstall the plug.
  

• 4

  Remove the bolts that connect the rear driveshaft to the rear axle yoke using a socket. Lower the driveshaft, and slide it backward underneath the rear axle to disengage it from the transfer case. Remove it from the vehicle.
  

• 5

  Remove the bolts that connect the front driveshaft to the front axle yoke using a socket. Lower the driveshaft, and slide it forward underneath the front axle to disengage it from the transfer case. Remove the driveshaft from the vehicle.
  

Removing the Transfer Case

• 1

  Label and disconnect the electrical wires and vacuum lines connected to the transfer case. Use masking tape and a marker.
  

• 2

  Remove the transfer case shifter rod. Using needle-nose pliers, remove the clip that connects the shifter rod to the transfer case. Slide the rod away from the transfer case.
  

• 3

  Position a floor jack underneath the transfer case. Raise it enough to take the weight of the transfer case off the transmission.
  

• 4

  Remove the bolts that connect the transfer case to the transmission using a socket or wrench.
  

• 5

  Slide the transfer case rearward to disengage it from the transfer case. Lower the floor jack, and remove the transfer case from the vehicle.

You need to raise the truck off all four wheels the remove the rear drive shaft then remove the front drive shaft .Next drain the fluid from the transfer case . next reinstall drain plug. Now use a jack and a flat piece of wood and slightly jack up un the bottom of the transmission to take the weight off the crossmember . Next remove the croosmember brace after removing that and supporting the transmission you can start removing the wiring and contols on the transfer case after dissconecting all that now you can remove the bolts from the transmission to the transfer case , remove all but one easy to get to lower one ( you choose) now start taking the last bolt out while holding the transfer to the transmission .( two people here helps) once you have removed the last bolt slide the transfer case back torwards the rear end some fluid may come out once you seperate these two be ready to catch it with a drain pan . you slide the transfer off the transmission out put shaft and it out . flow the step inreverse to install don't forget to refill the new transfer case with fluid and check the transmission fluid level once you have lowerd the truck back down.

first remove both front and rear driveshafts. Then remove skid plate underneath transfer case. Remember to unplug the electric motor wiring harness for explorers with electronic four wheel drive switching. Remove vacuum line on the top of transfer case. Unbolt Speedometer cable mount from top/rear of transfer case. Remove five bolts connecting the transfer case to the transmission, this step will cause some transmission fluid to leak from the shaft housing (approx. half a litre) so place a drain pan underneath. Remember to either place a jack or wood blocking under transfer case before removing the last bolt connecting the transfer case as it is heavy (approx. 80-90 lbs.).

Suzuki Samurai/Sidekick/Tracker 1986-1998 Repair Guide
Transfer Case Assembly - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Samurai Models
Even the 2WD Samurai uses a transfer case. Rather than use a straight line driveshaft from the transmission to the differential, the Samurai leaves the transfer case in place and replaces its internal working with a simple offset gear mechanism, thus keeping 2 of the 3 driveshafts used in the 4WD vehicle.

1. On 4WD vehicles, remove the transfer case shift lever.
2. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
3. Drain the oil from the transfer case.
4. Matchmark and remove the driveshafts from the transfer case assembly. Not all of the driveshafts need to be completely removed from the vehicle, just unbolted from the case flanges. In most cases, the shaft or shafts on one side of the transfer case can be repositioned and supported out of the way.
5. Support the transfer case using a suitable transmission jack.
6. Disconnect the speedometer cable from the transfer case.
7. On 4WD vehicles, disconnect the 4WD switch lead wire at the coupler.
8. Remove the three mounting bolts and/or nuts securing the transfer case to the chassis, as applicable.
9. Carefully lower the transfer case from the vehicle.

To install:

1. Position and install the transfer case. Tighten the mounting bolts to 159-248 inch lbs. (18-28 Nm) and/or the mounting nuts to 19-25 ft. lbs. (25-34 Nm).
2. On 4WD vehicles, connect the 4WD switch lead wire at the coupler.
3. Connect the speedometer cable to the transfer case.
4. Properly refill the transfer case with an approved type of gear oil.
5. Align and install the driveshafts to the transfer case.
6. On 4WD vehicles, install the transfer case shift lever.
7. Remove the jackstands and carefully lower the vehicle.

Sidekick, Tracker, Sidekick Sport and X-90 Models
On these models the transfer case is bolted to the transmission and takes the place of the 2WD transmission's extension housing. Therefore, transfer case is removed or installed as part of the transmission assembly.

Hope this help (remember rated this and comment).

remove the front and rear drive shafts and remove the bolts from the transfer case around the transmission the transfer case will then slide backwards and off of the transmission

GM Full-Size Trucks 1980-1987 Repair Guide

Transfer Case - FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS
The type of lubricant used in the transfer case varies with model year and type of transfer case. Refer to the list below for the type that applies to your truck.

1980
Conventional transfer cases require SAE 80W or SAE 80W-90 GL-5 gear lubricant.
Full time systems use SAE 10W-30 or 10W-40 engine oil.
1981
Conventional transfer cases require DEXRON®II transmission fluid.
1982-85
All transfer cases require DEXRON®II transmission fluid.
1986-87
All transfer cases except the K30/35 series require DEXRON®II transmission fluid.

For fluid recommendations for the K30/35 transfer cases refer to the owner's manual. LEVEL CHECKS


Fig. Model 208 Transfer Case

Check the four wheel drive transfer case lubricant level every 4 months or 6,000 miles.

1. With the truck parked on a level surface and the parking brake firmly applied, remove the filler plug from the rear of the transfer case (behind the transmission). Be careful not to take out the drain plug at the bottom.
2. If lubricant trickles out, there is enough. If not, carefully insert a finger and check that the level is up to the edge of the hole, EXCEPT in full time four wheel drive cases should be 1 /2 in. below the hole.

Lubricant may be added, if necessary, with a funnel and tube, or a squeeze bulb.



DRAIN AND REFILL
Part Time Systems
No intervals are specified for changing transfer case lubricant, but it is a good idea for trucks that are worked hard or driven in deep water.

1. With the transfer case warmed up, park on a level surface and apply the parking brake.
2. Slide a pan of a least 6 pts. capacity under the case drain plug.
3. Remove the filler plug from the rear of the transfer case (behind the transmission). Remove the drain plug from the bottom.
4. Wipe the area clean and replace the drain plug.
5. Add lubricant with a suction gun or squeeze bulb. Conventional transfer cases require SAE 80W-90 GL-5 Gear Lubricant.
6. When the lubricant level is up to the bottom of the filler hole, replace the plug.

Full Time Four Wheel Drive
The full time system requires oil changes at regular intervals, according to the amount and type of work done by the unit. Trucks used for normal on-off road work should have the transfer case oil changed at 24,000 mile intervals. When used for heavy duty work, trailer towing, snowplowing, and the like, the interval should be halved to 12,000 miles. If the truck is exposed to extremely dusty or muddy conditions, the oil should be changed at 1,000 mile intervals.
The transfer case oil must be hot before changing. Drive the truck until the engine has reached normal operating temperature, and park on a level surface.

1. Slide a pan of at least 8 pts. capacity under the case drain plug.
2. Remove the filler plug.
3. Remove the lowest bolt from the front output shaft rear bearing retainer cover, and allow the lubricant to drain. Be careful; the oil will be hot. There may be a drain plug. If so, remove that instead.
4. Remove the six bolts on the left (driver's) side of the case which secure to P.T.O. (power take-off) cover. Remove this cover and allow the lubricant to drain out.
5. Remove the speedometer driven gear from the upper left rear corner of the case.
6. Use a suction gun to remove as much lubricant as possible from the case cover location and the speedometer gear location.
7. Install the speedometer driven gear, the P.T.O. cover, and the lowest bolt or drain plug.
8. Add approximately seven pints of oil through the filler plug opening. The proper oil to use is 10W-30 or 10W-40 engine oil.
9. Check the fluid level and add sufficient oil to raise the level to 1 /2 in. below the filler plug opening. Replace the plug, and wipe the surfaces of the case and skid plate to remove any excess oil. Drive the truck and check for leaks.

I really hope help ypou woth this (remember rated this help) Good luck.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION CAUTION
The catalytic converter is located beside the transfer case. Be careful when working around the catalytic converter because of the extremely high temperatures generated by the converter.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise the vehicle and support it safely.
3. If so equipped, remove the skid plate from frame.
4. Drain the transfer case.
5. Remove the damper from the transfer case, if so equipped.
6. On electronic shift models, remove the wire connector from the feed wire harness at the rear of the transfer case. Be sure to squeeze the locking tabs, then pull the connectors apart.
7. Disconnect the front driveshaft from the axle input yoke.
8. If equipped, loosen the clamp retaining the front driveshaft boot to the transfer case, and pull the driveshaft and front boot assembly out of the transfer case front output shaft.
9. Disconnect the rear driveshaft from the transfer case output shaft yoke.
10. If equipped, disconnect the speedometer driven gear from the transfer case rear cover.
11. If equipped, disconnect the electrical wire harness plug from the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS).
12. Disconnect the vent hose from the mounting bracket.
13. On manual shift models, perform the following:
    1. Remove the shift lever retaining nut and remove the lever.
    2. Remove the bolts that retains the shifter to the extension housing. Note the size and location of the bolts to aid during installation. Remove the lever assembly and bushing.
14. If equipped, remove the heat shield from the transfer case.
15. Support the transfer case with a transmission jack.
16. Remove the mounting bolts retaining the transfer case to the transmission.
17. Slide the transfer case rearward off the transmission output shaft and lower the transfer case from the vehicle. Remove the gasket or any old sealer from between the transfer case and the transmission.

Oh lord, are you in for some work. First of all you will need a transmission jack, a must and a couple of strong guys if you don't have a lift. First things first. Disconnect neg. bat. cable. Raise up on jack stands. Disconnect drive shafts and tape bearings caps on drive shafts. Remove Starter. Disconnect wiring harness plugs from transmission and transfer case. The wiring harness connection on the shift linkage does not remove. There are 2 connectors and are glued at factory. Remove whole shift linkage unit from side of trans. Remove exhaust. Remove dust cover. Mark spot on flywheel and tourque converter, then remove bolts from flywheel. Support trans. with jack. Remove transfer case bolts from trans. Remove mount nuts from transfer case bolts. Remove bell housing bolts from motor to trans. Remove bolts from crossover support for transfer case mount from the main frame. Raise up transmission and remove crossover support. One guy now supports transfer case and other works transfer case loose. The transfer has to be jockeyed around until it drops out. It will not come straight out or down because of the tor. bar support frame. It has to be wiggled out and down. Guy supporting transfer case gets trans fluid bath and this is all muscle work. With transfer case out, put another jack under motor for support or risk breaking motor mounts and other things. Slide transmission back and lower down and its free, It is a very dirty, oily, nasty hard job. I just went through it. I wouldn't do it again. If you can afford it, take it to a pro. Well worth it. Remember once started, your pretty much commited. Reverse the whole thing to install. Good Luck