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jack up vehicle, remove tire. knock out old stud with a hammer and punch. put new stud in from back if need be. to draw it up tight.use a lug nut with something under it so when you tighten the nut it brings the stud into position. remove the nut you put on. and replace the tire. good-day! if the brakes and rotor are in the way. you will have to remove them to replace the wheel stud.
It is not recommended to drive it like that. It's not too bad to replace but it depends on your level of mechanical skill, You need to remove the brake caliper and disc and then you can simply knock the remains of the broken stud out with a hammer and punch, To fit the new one insert the stud and then put a large nut over the thread, then fit the lug nut and tighten it to pull the stud into the hub, then simply remove the lug nut and put it all back together.
I have never done one on this vehicle but have replaced many on all other cars over the years, this is what i experienced, the stud will pound out with a good 2-3 lb. hammer, and the new stud and nut will get pulled back through the empty hole by use of a strong impact wrench...start the stud by hand try to pull it as much as you can through the splined hole in the axle flange, install the new nut backwards on the stud screw it down as far as you can then with the 1/2' drive impact wrench on full throttle tighten the lug nut...by doing this you are pulling the stud through the void hole.
Please remeber to use a small amount of axle grease on the new stud and hole prior to installing the replacement stud and nut.
You prbably have to remove the disc brake caliper and brake pads along with the rear disc brake rotor to gain access to the stud, there should be an access hole also allowing you to get behind the axle flange for removal and installation.
Hope this works.
TAKE VECHICLE TO SEARS AUTO CENTER OR ANY TIRE WHEELS BRAKE ALIGNMENT SHOP THEY CAN PRESS OUT THE STUD WITH OUT DAMAGING WHEEL BEARING.AND PRESS YOU IN A NEW LUG NUT STUD.PROBABLY CHARGE YOU $25.00 DOLLARS.
take off tire. remove old stud by hammering it out with a punch. put a socket behind axle plate so as not to break the plate. when replacing, just start stud from back by hand, then use a lug nut to pull it in tight. when tight replace tire!
As far as I can determine, your Elantra has standard rear disc brakes.
The lugs should be attached to the hub, which is attached to the axle. The Disc or Rotor (they're one and the same) slip onto the hub. Oftentimes the disc will seize on the hub from rust. You need to spray the center hole, where the disc goes over the hub, with spray penetrating oil. Also spray the lug stud holes. Then take a (dead blow )hammer and hit the disc around its perimeter. It should then come loose.
The broken stud can then be taken out by hitting the front of the stud with a hammer. You may want to spray the back of the stud where it seats on the hub before taking the hammer to it. Place the new stud through the rear and make sure it's seated correctly.
Clean all parts with brake parts cleaner. The lug studs should not have any lubrication on them.
You have to re-set that "large castle nut" that was removed to its proper Preload Torque. I do not know that spec, but you need to find it out, and how it's done.
Suggest you purchase a Repair Manual for your vehicle(s). It really is the best tool you can get.
I assume that you are referring to the wheel studs and if so you will have to remove the wheel, the brake caliper, the brake caliper stand and the brake rotor. Drive the old stud out with a hammer. Make sure you purchase new lug nuts with the studs. If they are the acorn style, buy one that is not to help with installation. Slide the new stud in the hole from the rear of the flange, install some washers for clearance of the stud shoulder. Install the non acorn style lug nut on the stud backwards. Using a impact gun, pull the stud through. Remove the backwards lug nut and washers.
Remove: wheel, brake caliper & rotor. Drive out the remaining stub with a hammer and punch. Insert a new stud and pull it into place by tightening the lug nut. Before running out of threads, remove the nut, insert a stack of washers or a large nut which slips over the threads without contacting them, tighten the lug nut to seat the stud.
Section 04-01: Suspension and Wheel Hubs, Front
1996 Taurus, Sable Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Wheel Hub Bolt
Raise vehicle on hoist.
Remove wheel and tire assembly. Refer to Section 04-04 .
Remove disc brake caliper (2B120), and front disc brake rotor (1125). Refer to Section 06-03 .
Brake Shoe and Lining
Remove brake master cylinder filler cap (2162). Check fluid level in brake master cylinder reservoir (2K478). Remove brake fluid until brake master cylinder reservoir is half full. Discard removed fluid.
Raise vehicle on hoist. Refer to Section 00-02 .
Remove wheel and tire assembly from front disc brake rotor mounting face. Use care to avoid damage or interference with disc brake caliper (2B120), front disc brake rotor shield (2K004) or front wheel knuckle (3K185).
Remove rear brake pin retainers (2N386). ( I think it is a T 40 torx bit you need)
NOTE: It is not necessary to disconnect hydraulic connections.
Lift disc brake caliper from front disc brake caliper anchor plate (2B292) and front disc brake rotor (1125). Do not pry directly against metal caliper piston or damage will occur.
Position disc brake caliper out of the way and support with wire to avoid damaging the disc brake caliper and front brake hose (2078).
Remove outer brake shoe and lining (2001) assembly from front disc brake caliper anchor plate.
Remove inner brake shoe and lining assembly.
Position lug bolt (1107) to clear front wheel knuckle (3K185).
Remove lug bolt from wheel hub (1104).
Install lug bolt into wheel hub.
Using a lug nut (1012), seat wheel hub bolt into wheel hub.
Install front disc brake rotor and disc brake caliper. Refer to Section 06-03 .
Install wheel and tire assembly. Tighten lug nut to 115-142Nm (85-104 lb-ft).
If you have the time let it sit overnight or longer, giving it another spray occasionally. It works best when it's given time to soak in. 2 other ways to remove that have worked for me. Get someone to help for this. While putting pressure (to loosen) on a breaker bar w/ socket, have someone give the top of the socket a good whack with a hammer. Try several times, it may break it free. 2nd way is to put socket and breaker bar on and with a couple of firm hits on the end (handle end) of breaker bar, hit in the tighten direction, then do the loosen direction. This can also break it free. Best way is with an air gun. I can't believe how easy bolts come off that seemed impossible when doing it with just human power.