Re: 1996 Buick Regal Sport - Leaking Plastic Elbow
YOU NEED TO REPLACE THE BELT TENSIONER.
IF YOU BUY THE CARTER BELT TENSIONER AT ADVANCED AUTO, IT COMES WITH: A PLASTIC ELBOW WITH O RINGS, TENSIONER, PULLEY, NEW O RING WHERE THE BELT TENSIONER MATES TO THE ENGINE BLOCK AND NEW O RINGS FOR THE INLET AND OUTLET CONNECTIONS ON THE BELT TENSIONER TO THE HEATER CORE (COST $72).
IF YOU DON'T REPLACE ALL THE ABOVE O RINGS THEN YOU CAN EXPECT MORE LEAKS.
IN ORDER TO REPLACE THE PLASTIC ELBOW YOU MUST REMOVE THE BELT TENSIONER ANYWAY. IF THE BELT HAS SEVERE CRACKS REPLACE IT ALSO.
-DRAIN ANTIFREEZ AND DISCARD
-REMOVE BELT TENSIONER
-REMOVE PLASTIC ELBOW (DO NOT ALLOW BROKEN PIECES PLASTIC OR DIRT TO GET INSIDE THE ENGINE WATER CAVITIES.
-CLEAN ALL CONNECTION WHERE O RING WILL MATE.
-TO REASSEMBLE GO IN REVERS ORDER
-REFILL THE RADIATOR WITH COOLENT 50% MIX USE THE 5 YR GUARANTEE TYPE.
-MAKE SURE THE COOLENT RESERVIOR IS
FILLED TO THE HOT LEVEL MARK.
-RUN THE ENGINE UNTILE IT IT REACHES THE 1/4 % TEMP MARK ON THE TEMPERATURE GAUGE THEN TURN THE ENGINE OFF AND OPEN THE BLEED SCREW ON TOP OF THE THERMOSTAT HOUSING.
ALLOW THE AIR TO EVACUATE, YOU WILL SEE COOLENT COME OUT THEN CLOSE THE BLEED SCREW.
-BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN YOU OPEN THE RADIATOR TO REFILL TO THE TOP.
-REPEAT THIS ONE MORE TIME.
-RUN THE ENGINE AND KEEP YOUR EYE ON THE TEMPERATURE GAUGE' IF THE TEMPERATURE GOES BEYOND THE 1/2% MARK, SHUT DOWN THE ENGINE QUICKLEY AND LET THE ENGINE COOL.
THIS MAY TAKE HOURS TO COOL DOWN BUT THE COOLING SYSTEM WILL TURN FROM PRESSURIZED TO VACUUM AND DRAW COOLENT FROM THE RESERVOIR TO REFILL THE SYSTEM.
YOU WILL NOTICE THE LEVEL DROP IN THE RESERVOIR.
Re: 1996 Buick Regal Sport - Leaking Plastic Elbow
This is the water pump bypass elbow ,,auto zone has them in a 2 pack ,2 sizes in the pack ,first disconnect the neg battery cable,take off the alternator and set aside leave the wires attached , find ur heater hoses they come from a box that gets it water from the pump ,,the bow is bolted on un bolt it and u will be able to change the small elbow , might have to unbolt the power steering pump too kinda hard u have to use a socket through the holes in the pulley , and might have to take off the water pump pulley also ,,
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There is 1 or 2 elbows (plastic from factory) that connect the coolant channels from the engine block to the tensioner pulley housing. Mine only had one (in front, visible and disintegrated) and in the back, the pulley housing had a nipple (cast) that had o rings and was inserted into the back coolant hole in the block.
You need to make sure to remove all bolts holding the tensioner housing on.
Swivel and/or wiggle the pulley housing off very slowly so as not to break that nipple off of the pulley housing.
The parts stores only sell the elbows in 2 packs, but they do have metal instead of the original plastic.
disconnect battery first, unbolt alternator(3 bolts), cross bar bracket(2 nuts) unhook both heater hoses out of the connectors(each has a 7mm head bolt in them, then twist loose), remove belt, then there are 3 bolts holding it on the motor, has a plastic elbow to the intake and an o-ring seal male port that goes into the timing cover. gently pry back and forth to work it loose so not to break either the elbow or the port off. alot of times it seizes up in there. the elbow is a hat trick to get in and out also, just be patient and take your time
It could be the intake gaskets, or it could be that the upper intake is starting to fail. Both are common problems. How fast are you losing coolant? If it's fast, then it may be the upper intake. Also, how many miles are on it, and has the upper intake been replaced before? It may be due for a new one.
Anyway, the procedure for doing the gaskets and for replacing the upper intake are exactly the same, except that if you replace the upper intake, you put on the new one instead of reinstalling the old one. I've done this with mkaake over a couple of days. There's a lot to remove and replace, but nothing that's especially hard to do. Have a service manual of some kind on hand, and do some serious research before you take it apart.
Parts you'll need:
1) Upper intake gasket set 2) Lower intake gasket set (make sure it's the new upgraded version, with metal inserts) 3) Plastic coolant elbow (it's under the alternator, and rarely comes off in one piece. It's also a dealer part, so if you're doing this on a Saturday and the dealer is closed... you get to wait until monday to put it back together - unless you get one ahead of time) 4) Fuel injector O-rings (might as well replace those while you've got them out anyway) 5) Carb/TB cleaner - several cans (you'll want to clean up the upper and lower intakes, and the TB while you've got them off)
That's all I can think of right now. I also don't know prices. Maybe someone else will have that info.
cool car down and drain the radiator, usually a spigot or valve at the bottom. remove the clips or clamps holding the hose on, pull hose off. get a new hose from any parts store, sometime helps to have the old one with you. install new one, put on new clamps and tighten firmly, pour in new coolant. check your owners manual to see what kind of coolant Buick recommends.
You are correct it is connected with two plastic elbows the will almost always break when you remove the assem. If you have removed all the bolts you should be able to wiggle and work it loose by gently prying on it, just look at the direction of the elbows and work it in that direction, but i highly reccomend replacing both elbows.
These plastic elbows (3.8L Engine) do fail. To the best of my knowledge this is a dealer only item, which is not a big deal as the cost is low (in terms of car repair). Remove the alternator to gain access to the elbow. Monitor the coolant level following repair.
As you probably know, don't let the engine run low on coolant as engine damage will follow.