How do I find tdc on #2 cylinder when timing belt breaks

What exactly do you mean by an "overhaul"? More information please. Which diesel engine is this? The 2.5 litre or the 2.6 litre? What year is your vehicle? Some engines can be different settings depending on the size it is.
I'm assuming this is for the clearance between the valve rockers and the spring end of the valves?
If you're breaking rockers your mechanical timing might not be set correctly risking bent valves or the valves are already bent. Even One tooth out on the timing belt/chain can cause problems. You might need to take the cylinder head off to check the valves.
When you set the clearances the engine needs to be Cold and the cylinder you're working on needs to be at Top Dead Centre (TDC) to make sure the valves are closed. On an inline 4 cylinder engine the cylinders work as pairs, 1 and 4, 2 and 3.
Set cylinder number 1 to TDC. Set the clearances for only cylinders 1 and 4. Using the crank pulley bolt turn cylinder 1 to Bottom Dead Centre, (180' turn clockwise). This should bring cylinders 2 and 3 to TDC so you can set those clearances.
Is the engine burning the oil? (a thicker, more blue exhaust smoke than normal). Burning oil can also be a sign of a blown head gasket or badly worn piston rings.

You are at the wrong stroke on the 4 stroke engine. You have to be at TDC on the COMPRESSION stroke. You are at inlet or exhaust stoke TDC :>)

If the engine is an interference type (most are these days) there will almost certainly be a few bent valves when the timing belt breaks and possibly worse damage. Once you have verified the problem and gone as far as you can towards locating and diagnosing the likely faults the cylinder head will have to be replaced for further examination.

There should be no need to manually identify tdc of the timing cylinder (usually at the timing belt end but not always) as the manufacturer usually provides accurate timing marks. I would guess you need to read a bit about engines in general and about your engine specifically.

Good luck!

Usually there are markings on the crankshaft and the engine block that need to be aligned for it to be at TDC on number 1 cylinder. If not use this procedure. Remove the number 1 plug. Place your finger over the spark plug hole and have a helper turn the crankshaft in the direction of normal rotation until you feel the compression building in the cylinder, once you feel the pressure, remove your finger and slowly turn the crank until the cylinder comes to TDC (you can look inside with a flashlight to confirm and also look at the position of the crankshaft markings and rotor etc.,c to confirm. Once all marks are aligned, install the belt. Once installed and the tension is on it, turn it at least 2 complete turns to make sure all alignment marks stay where they should be, if they do, you're good to go!

I need some clarification. Did you replace the belt because it broke? If so you may need to replace the head. The problem is if the belt breaks when your moving it usually damages the head and thus needs to be replaced.

The 2 cams are linked with a chain at the rear of the cylinder head.

The cams need to be set so the slots on the chain sprockets line up with the cam tower caps with 16 links between cam caps.

You cannot see the front crank pulley tdc mark so you need to lock the engine at tdc with a screwdriver jammed into the timing hole on the bell housing after setting engine at tdc or use a DTI
to check to tdc in the #1 spark plug hole.

If the cams have not been disturbed you only need to set the belt cam sprocket to the mark and crank to tdc.....all this means pulling the core support into the service position so the belt tensioner can be locked down and/or doing a complete belt job along with a coolant pump if over 70,000 miles..

TIMING BELT & SPROCKETS R & I
NOTE: Some procedures may differ slightly due to engine
construction.
Removal
1) Remove all necessary air ducts. Position No. 4 piston at
TDC of compression stroke. Align timing marks. See Fig. 2. Remove fan
and fan shroud. Remove belts. If necessary, remove radiator and
splashguard.
2) Prevent engine from rotating and remove crankshaft timing
pulley retaining bolt. Remove upper and lower timing belt covers.
Remove spring from tension pulley. Loosen adjusting bolt and move
pulley toward water pump. Remove timing belt.
CAUTION: Ensure pistons are at TDC when rotating camshaft or damage
may result.
Inspection
1) Handle timing belt carefully. Avoid twisting or kinking
belt. Do not allow belt to become contaminated by water, oil, dirt or
other contaminates. Inspect belt for cracks or damage. If necessary,
replace.
2) Measure tension pulley spring length and force. Spring
length should not exceed 2.76" (70.2 mm) and spring force should not
be less than 197-347 lbs. (27-48 kg).
3) Replace tension pulley spring if not within specification.
Installation
1) Pull tensioner fully toward water pump side and
temporarily tighten retaining bolt. Ensure No. 4 cylinder is at TDC on
compression stroke by rotating crankshaft until keyway aligns with
mark on front crankshaft seal housing (12 o'clock). Rotate camshaft
until timing mark on cam gear (arrow) aligns with mark on upper
camshaft cover (notch). See Fig. 2.
NOTE: When timing marks are aligned as stated above, No. 4 piston
is at TDC on compression stroke.
2) Position timing belt over crankshaft sprocket, oil pump
sprocket, camshaft sprocket and tensioner in that order. Ensure belt
is positioned in sequence given and without slack between sprockets.
Loosen tension sprocket adjusting bolt allowing spring tension to
tighten belt. Tighten adjusting bolt temporarily.
3) Temporarily install crankshaft pulley bolt and rotate
crankshaft 2 complete revolutions in opposite direction of engine
rotation, until marks on crankshaft and front oil seal retainer are
aligned again. See Fig. 2. Loosen tensioner lock bolt, allowing
tesioner spring to fully adjust tension. Tighten tensioner lock bolt.
4) Install timing belt covers. To complete installation,
reverse removal procedures. Tighten all bolts to specification. See
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS table at end of this article.
Fig. 2: 2.3L & 2.6L Timing Alignment Marks
Courtesy of Isuzu Motor Co

I'm going to copy the procedure from Autozone.com below. I've never seen such a complicated way of getting the tension right, but better to follow their instructions, I guess. Note that they ask you to loosen the rocker shafts, but they never tell you to put them back. I will add that.


To install:

6. Remove both cylinder head covers and loosen all rocker arm shaft retaining bolts.

The rocker arm shaft bolts MUST be loosened so that the correct belt tension can be obtained.

1. Install the tensioner and the return spring. Using a hexagon wrench, turn the tensioner clockwise, then temporarily tighten the locknut.
2. Make sure that the timing belt is clean and free from oil or water, before installation.
3. Install the timing belt. Align the white lines on the belt with the punchmarks on the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets. Be sure to have the arrow on the timing belt pointing toward the front belt covers.

A good way (although rather tedious) to check for proper timing belt installation is to count the number of belt teeth between the timing marks. There are 133 teeth on the belt; there should be 40 teeth between the timing marks on the left and right-side camshaft sprockets, and 43 teeth between the timing marks on the left-side camshaft sprocket and the crankshaft sprocket.

1. While keeping the tensioner steady, loosen the locknut with a hexagon wrench.
2. Turn the tension approximately 70-80 degrees clockwise with the wrench, then tighten the locknut.
3. Turn the crankshaft in a clockwise direction several times, then slowly set the No. 1 piston to TDC of the compression stroke.
4. Apply 22 lbs. (10 kg) of pressure (push it in) to the center span of the timing belt between the right-side camshaft sprocket and the tensioner pulley, then loosen the tensioner locknut.
5. Using a 0.0138 in. (0.35mm) feeler gauge (the actual width of the blade must be 1/2 in. or 12.7mm thick), positioned as shown in the illustration, slowly turn the crankshaft clockwise. The timing belt should move approximately 2 1/2 teeth. Tighten the tensioner locknut, then turn the crankshaft slightly and remove the feeler gauge.
6. Slowly rotate the crankshaft clockwise several more times , then set the No. 1 piston to TDC of the compression stroke; recheck all alignment marks.
7. Install the upper and lower timing belt covers.
8. Connect the negative battery cable.

When installing the rocker arm shafts, be certain that they are installed in their original positions.

1. Make sure the camshaft knock pin is at the top of the camshaft and that the lobe is not in the lifted position. If servicing the left-side cylinder head, set the No. 1 piston at TDC of its compression stroke, then tighten the rocker shaft bolts for cylinder No. 2, 4 and 6 cylinders. If servicing the right-side cylinder head, set the No. 4 piston at TDC of its compression stroke and tighten the rocker shaft bolts for cylinder No. 1, 3 and 5 cylinder rocker shaft bolts. Tighten all bolts gradually, in two or three stages, to 13-16 ft. lbs. (18-22 Nm).
2. Install the cylinder head cover(s).

DID THE BELT BREAK AND THEN IT WAS CHANGED. If so then you may have bent valve. IF NOT then vehicle may be timed wrong. Here is a diagram of your timing marks, http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_information/tec_info/2002/hyundai/accent/2002_hyundai_accent_timing_belt_diagram_marks.htm contact if you need more help. Thanks for using FIX YA

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