1994 mazda protege dohc was spitting and sputtering, leaking gas at filler neck when stpped. if it had under at half tank of gas did not leak and ran fine, then it started spitting under a half tank and would not move and now wont start. checked fuel filter sparkplugs wires.
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Re: 94 mazda protege
Try buying new points (yes there called points) gap them then install them, they go under the distributor cap, by the condenser, also, the sparkplug wires go in a certin order so if your not sure call an michanics shop and tell them what kind of car you have and they'll tell you what order they should go in. also did you gap the spark plugs??
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If it won't start, have you checked for spark and fuel pressure? Remove one plug wire and ground it over the engine. Crank the engine and see if there is spark. IF spark is present, check fuel pressure to see if the pump is working. If spark and fuel are present, check for cracked air hose from air filter housing to throttle assembly allowing unmetered air into the engine. Also check for timing belt issues
Wires and distributor cap too-they should be changed if you are going to rule out ignition problems. You can check the wires with a digital meter, but if you know they haven't been replaced in a while, do that-distributor caps are a little trickier in that they can hairline cracks or 'carbon' tracks that can disrupt the spark.
1 remove the cable from the coil to the distributor. check this agains earth, when you turn the engine over.
if spark, suspect rotor arm is not setting spark to each spark plug lead. open distributor and clean the rotor arm with a cloth or wire wool not sand paper as this will take off too much and cause a problem
2 check inside distributor for moisture. spray inside with WD40 or equiventy water repelent.
3 if not spark at coil open distriutor cap and with ignition on, open and close points in distributor with a screw driver and check coil again against earth again if you get sparh, problem is points not opening and closing.
4 turn over engine with distributor cover removed to see if rotor arm is moving if not then cam drive to distributor is defective. this controls points and rotor arm.
if rotor arm turning and spark at points but no spark at coil suspect Low tension wiring or coil needs replacement.
I know ths is late, but I had the same problem. I replaced the plugs, plug wires, rotor & cap, ignition coil & then the entire distributor -- no change. What finally fixed the problem was a new "igniter" from a junkyard -- small device located on the bracket which holds the coil & fusebox. The old igniter was a bit corroded on the back from fumes from the battery. While I was at it, I also put in a new ignition condensor which is mounted on the same bracket -- but later determined that the old condensor was fine. A new igniter is expensive (>$100) but you can get one chepaly if you pull your own from a junkyard (I paid $7 for mine). Good luck.