My engine light came on and I took my 2000 Jag to a mechanic and was told they needed to replace 2 vacum hoses and the radiator hose. Well when I got my car back the heater didnt work. I took back the car to the mechanic and they said the heater works. I did notice the heater gets hot when the car is parked but when you start to drive the car the heater gets cold. Could you help me figure out what the problem. I have already shelled out $900.00 and the heater was working when I took the care to the mechanic for the engine light being on.
Please let me know what you think the problem is.
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Re: problem with heater
Hi what you need to do is lift the bonnet find where the two heater hoses come out of the bulk head while running the engine they should both be hot same temp both hoses if not there is a air lock in the system if it was allright when it went in it should be ok when it comes out you will need to bleed the system the engine temp gauge is not low by any chance is it if so replace the thermostat but i am sure once systems been bled it will be ok yates210456
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the cooling systems consists of a radiator, radiator cap, water pump, thermostat, hoses, heater core and sometime a heater control valve that open water lines to heater core. You may need a cooling system flush if water pump, radiator have been replaced. flush the system.change the thermostat and have the heater core checked too if you can get to it. does the cooling fan kick on to cool the radiator..check that too.replace radiator cap and check cooling fan yourself...let me know if need anything else. Thanks for using fixya and please vote.
hi, you could probably start by bleeding the air out of the radiator, thats not to hard and is easy to narrow out,
if the heater core is cloged you could try flushing it out, you could take both heater hoses off at one end and stick a hose in and check if there is flow through it, if there is good flow then check all vacume lines etc... if you know where the right line is you could try and overide it by borrowing a vacume line from somewhere else or bloing into the hose to see if anything changes...
is it actually on the engine? I ask because you say it is to the passenger side and just behind the engine, that makes me think it is a heater hose, the heater hoses go from the water pump to the heater core which is located on the passenger side, the difference between heater hoses and radiator hoses is the size and of course location, heater hoses are generally about 1/2 inch to 1 inch, with radiator hoses being between 1 3/4 and 3 inches
Look for two water lines about 1 in in diameter running back toward the condensor unit in the firewall. On one of those lines will be a control. It is sometimes vacum controlled. When they are vacum conrolled they have a tendency to get stuck or you may have lost vacum to the unit. You can use a vacum tester and short piece of hose to test this to see if you have lost vacum or if it is stuck closed. Connect the test hose to the control on teh hose and apply vacum to the unit. If the valve opens you will get heat in the vehicle. If it does not open then it is stuck in the closed position and will need to be replaced in most cases.
What was the problem that you took the vehicle in for? Was it leaking?
Just like doctors, if you don't trust your mechanic move on and find one you trust. I often would be given a list of things that my customer was told they needed after getting tires (I didn't do tires back then) and Often none or maybe one thing on the list was really wrong. You have to be careful.
the sensor is not to hard to change takes an experienced mechanic a little less tan an hour if it does not brake. it really doesn't hurt your car to run with a faulty sensor but if the sensor competly craps out your car probably won't start i would get it repaired if i were you so your not stranded some where.
If it's the 3.0L Vulcan Engine (OHV), the thermostat is on the driver's side of the vehicle. Follow the upper radiator hose back to a metal area with three 10mm bolts. This is the thermostat housing. Undo the bolts, and there's the thermostat. Mark the back of it with the old thermostat in it (if you get one with a jiggle valve, it'll make it easier to put the new one in because the jiggle valve needs to be on top). The thermostat and housing aren't perfectly round, so you'll have to play with it a little to get it to line up. Make sure to change the gasket. The spring side of the thermostat goes into the engine.
The water pump is in the serpentine assembly. It's the larger pulley located toward the firewall. It'll be easiest to remove the water pump if you also remove the coolant recovery tank. The water pump pulley has four 1/2" bolts that you need to take out WITH THE BELT STILL ATTACHED. I can't stress this enough. The belt will keep the pulley in place so that you can remove the bolts. Take the pulley off, then the belt. Remove the heater hose at the top and the radiator hose at the bottom. There are 12 bolts of two diameters (1/2" and 10mm if I'm not mistaken). Tap the heater hose lightly with a soft-faced mallet to break the seal with the gasket. Trash the old gasket. Replace gasket (you can also line the mating surface of the water pump with RTV Sealant, put the new gasket on the new pump, and line the other side of gasket with a second coat of RTV sealant if you want a really good seal). Install the water pump and torque to manufacturer's specs. Attach the pulley to the water pump hand tight and put the belt back on. Tighten the pulley bolts. Put the coolant recovery tank back in place. Fill with coolant, start engine, bleed and check for leaks.
To bleed cooling system: Idle the engine until the thermostat opens (you'll be able to tell bacause the upper radiator hose will be uber hot and you'll feel coolant running through this hose). Squeeze all hoses in the system that you can reach, but don't burn yourself. Stop the engine and let it cool. Open the radiator cap and squeeze the COLD upper radiator hose. You'll see some bubbles in your recovery tank. You might have to monitor your coolant level for a couple of days while the final bits of air are purged through your radiator cap (that's why it's pressurized).
Hope this helps. It's not hard, but it took me quite awhile.
put your heater on and see if hot air comes out if not the heater core is probably clogged. you could get them to change it and its costly or bypass the heater core and just connect your coolant lines together which will mean no hot air. make sure you drain the coolant first. Or try to force flush the heater core to get it unclogged then after all that put coolant in. If thats no it, run a pressure test on your radiator cap and see if it falls between the proper specifications for a good cap. Right now my suzuki too is overheating and I'm gonna try and bypass the heater core.
YES, THEIR IS A HOT WATER CONTROL VALVE, ITCAN BE OPERATED BY VACUMN, OR CABLE, VAC, TYPE WILL HAVE AVACUMN HOSE TO IT, PLS CHECK IT FOR CONDITION, CRACKS, SWELLING, IF OK, THEN WITH ENGINE RUNNING, HEATER CONTROL IN HOT POS. PULL HOSE OFF VALVE, PUT FINGER OVER END, FEEL FOR VACUME. IF THERE IS, MOST COMONLEY RESULT IS THAT VALVE NEED TO BE REPLACED.
It takes roughly 2 1/2 to 3 hours to replace the heater valve, it is a pain to get access to the 5 heater hose clamps. A good mechanic can replace is in 1 1/2 to 2 hours but a shop is still going to charge you the 2 1/2 to 3