I have a 1997 328i and I am getting a "brake light circuit failure" displayed on my computer panel. When we check to see if the brake lights are working, they all appear to be.
I had this same problem several years ago on this car, but at that time, water was entering the right brake light assembly and when we replaced the entire assembly, the problem went away. This time, I don't know which assembly is having the trouble (left or right), so I would like to know if there is something else to test to see what/where the problem is. And can it be fixed without replacing the entire assembly?
It is really annoying because when this comes up on the computer screen, nothing else will...I can push "temp" and the temperature flashes on the screen for a moment, but then this error message comes back again and stays on (no, touching the 'check' button doesn't turn it off).
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When this happens, usually it is because of a failure in the gearshift selector switch
solenoid. The gearshift selector solenoid is the switch that unlock the lever from park position when driver turns on the ignition and release brake
When brake pedal is depressed with selector in
park position, this energizes the solenoid, unlocking the shifter. Teh solenoid is energised by same circuit connecting the brake lights. When for some reason (a short for example) the brake light fuse that protects the circuit blows, this will result in a
failure to energize the solenoid, and lever won't be released from park position. You find the fuse in the fuse box, on Discovery this is fuse number 1. This is a 15 Amps
blue fuse. Fuse is located in the fascia fuse panel. In most cases you fix the problem by replacing the brake light fuse.
Another reason for a failure to energize the solenoid is a faulty brake light switch.
This means the solenoid itself is faulty and need to be replaced.
How to proceed:
Check brake lights. If brake lights are not working, check and replace fuse number one in the fuse box. This will solve the problem in most cases.
If fuse keeps blowing there must be a short in the brake lights wiring.
You will need to access the rear light access panels and unplug the wiring harnesses that connects to the tail light
assemblies. Replace the fuse and try again to start the car, with all tail lights harnesses disconnected. If it starts drive the vehicle to the nearest mechanic, the vehicle will not be safe without tail and brake lights.
When fuse is not blowing check the brake light switch. Remove
the panel above the brake pedal. There you find several switches, the second from the bottom will be the brake light switch. Unplug the switch connector, put parking brake on, turn on ignition and short the two green wired pins. You should hear a click, while shorting the contacts move the shifter
out of park position
When brake light are working fine, and lever stays on park position, it
is usually the solenoid or its connections that are faulty. Try connecting directly the solenoid to power. The solenoid is connected to red and black wires.
Apply 12 Volts across the wires, following polarity. If this worked the solenoid will click, and you will be able to move the gear out of
parkposition. When there is no click you need to replace the faulty solenoid that is located in the shifter assembly.
year/make/model?? The brake lights are controlled/activated by the brake switch attached to the brake pedal. This switch if defective will affect the operation of the brake lights. On some makes/models, the brake light circuit also runs through the signal light switch which will also affect brake light operation if defective
The Traction Control & Stability is a part of the anti lock brake system When these lights come on there has been a failure code set in the computer for a circuit failure.
This can be a sensor problem sometimes or a calibration change for the computer.You should have your local GM dealer check these systems for failures. These 2 systems work together through the EBCM (Electronic Brake Control Module).
1) Locate and remove sensor. The sensor is located under the drivers tail light. Unclip it from the body and then unplug it.
2) Bypass the tail light circuit. Connect the tail light signal wire (Green) to the tail light wire (Green w/ Red Stripe). I recommend using wire tap in squeeze connectors that way you dont have to cut any wires.
3) Bypass the brake light circuit. Connect the brakelight signal wire (Green w/ White Stripe) to the brake light wire (Red w/ Blue stripe) and the the 3rd brake light wire (Red w/ White Stripe). Again all three of these wires are to be connected together.
4) Throw away your broken Tail Lamp Failure Sensor Do not plug your sensor back in. Doing so will cause the annoying orange lamp failure warning light on your dash to stay on. Leave it unplugged ant the light will stay off.
5) Test your work Turn on your lights and make sure your tail lights work properly. Have a friend step on the brake pedal, and make sure your brake lights work properly as well. Dont forget to check the Third brake light.
Are you sure that there are no lights out?pay
attention to the third brake light because it has 3 bulbs and if one is
outit will give you that message.also make sure that all of the bulbs
are the right ones.
I used to get the "Rear Lamp Failure" message on my '93 Limited after
the lights were on for a few minutes... it went away when I changed the
rear bulbs to the same brand. The Lamp Outage Module (located in the LR
quarter panel, near the fuel filler) is looking for differences in
current flow between the left and right side bulbs.
You probably need a new lamp outage module...
The Lamp Outage Module (LOM) determines if a rear lighting lamp is not
operating. When the ignition switch is in the START or RUN position,
circuit A1 from fuse 8 in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) connects
to circuit A21. Circuit A21 feeds circuit F87 through fuse 5 in the
junction block. Circuits F87 feeds the LOM.
- Circuit G46 from the LOM connects to the Vehicle Information Center
(VIC) . When the LOM senses a inoperative lamp, the VIC displays the
data to the vehicle operator.
- Circuit L90 which feeds the tail lamps and side marker lamps, connects
to the LOM. From the LOM, circuit L90 continues to the license plate
lamps. Circuits L21 and L22 from the LOM power the tail lamps and side
- Circuit L50 from the stop lamp switch connects to the LOM. From the LOM,
circuits L73 and L74 power the stop lamps and circuit L87 powers the
Center High Mounted Stop Lamps (CHMSL) . Circuit Z1 grounds the LOM.
If you need tha owners and repair manual about your ZJ Grand Cherokee, just keep in touch and send me one comment.
Yes, you need to of course check the voltage coming into and going out of the brake light switch, if 12 Volts are there going out and coming in while pressing on the brake pedal, your brake lights aren't getting a good ground or there is a break in the circuit between that switch & the lights.
On occasion the tail lights will work with a weak ground circuit where the Brake lights won't. Best way to determine this is to just hook up the 12 volt tester to the Brake light hot wire & there at the bulb ground, then in an area away from the bulb that has a good possibility of contact/ground.
Really that's it, if the 12Volts is getting to the bulb but it isn't lighting, if you aren't getting the voltage there and the brake switch is hot on both sides when pressed, the break in voltage will have to be traced from that switch to the tail light to find the problem.
look 214 is not a valid code for a 1995 escort, this is an OBD1 system. here is a list of trouble codes for this year of ford no matter the model.
You should find the diagnostic connector under your hood normally by the fender on the battery side. By just using your test light and a jumper wire, it will tell you what kind of problem you got.
KEY ON ENGINE OFF (KOEO) TEST Model years 1984-1995 all models of Ford 1. Make sure engine is fully warmed. If in doubt, run engine at 2000 rpm for 2 minutes. 2. Turn ignition off and wait 10 seconds for system to shut off. Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or Neutral (manual). 3. Hook up light and jumper (or a tester if you have one). Turn key to ON (do not start engine). Read the codes.
How to do it?
Example code 23: your test light should flash 2 long consecutive flashes followed by 3 short pulses.
Ford's common codes for OBD1 (vehicles made before 1995)
11 system pass 12 idle control fault 13 dc motor did not move 14 engine rpm signal fault or PIP circuit failure 15 eec processor or power to KAM interrupted 16 rpm to low to check oxygen sensor test or fuel control error 17 cfi fuel control system fault or rich/lean condition indicated 18 ignition diagnostic monitor (IDM) circuit failure 19 cylinder identification (CID) sensor input failure 21 engine coolant temperature (ECT) out of self-test range 22 manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor circuit out of range 23 throttle positioner sensor out of self-test range 24 air charge temperature (ACT) sensor out of self-test range 25 knock not sensed during dynamic response test 26 transmission fluid temperature out of self-test range 28 loss of primary tach, right side 29 insufficient input from vehicle speed sensor 31 egr positioner sensor below minimum voltage 32 egr positioner sensor below closed limit 33 throttle positioner sensor noisy/harsh on line 34 egr valve circuit out of self-test range 35 egr valve circuit above maximum voltage 38 idle track switch circuit open 39 axod torque converter or bypass clutch not applying properly 41 oxygen sensor circuit indicates system always lean 42 oxygen sensor circuit indicates system always rich 43 oxygen sensor out of self-test range 44 air injection control system failure 45 coil 1 primary circuit failure 46 coil primary circuit failure 47 4X4 switch is closed or oxygen sensor failure 48 coil primary circuit failure 49 electronic transmission shift error 51 engine coolant temperature sensor circuit open 52 power steering pressure switch circuit open 53 throttle position circuit above maximum voltage 54 air charge temperature circuit open 55 key power input to processor open circuit 56 mass air flow circuit above maximum voltage 57 axod circuit failure 58 idle tracking switch circuit fault 59 automatic transmission shift error 61 engine coolant temperature circuit grounded 62 converter clutch error 63 throttle positioner circuit below minimum voltage 64 air charge temperature circuit grounded 65 charging system over voltage 66 mass air flow sensor circuit below minimum voltage 67 neutral/drive switch circuit open 68 transmission fluid temperature over temperature range 69 transmission shift error 70 data circuit communication link circuit failure 71 message center circuit circuit failure 72 insufficient manifold absolute pressure (MAP) change during dynamic response test 73 insufficient throttle positioner (TPS) change during dynamic response test 74 brake on/off (BOO) circuit open 75 brake on/off (BOO) circuit closed 76 insufficient air flow output change during test 77 brief wide open throttle not sensed during test 78 power interrupt detected 79 a/c on/defrost on during self test 81 map has not changed normally 82 super charger bypass circuit failure 83 OIC-low speed fuel pump relay circuit failure 84 egr vacuum regulator (EVR) circuit failure 85 canister purge circuit failure 86 shift solenoid circuit failure 87 fuel pump circuit failure 88 electro drive fan circuit failure 89 transmission solenoid circuit failure 91 no oxygen sensor switching detected 92 shift solenoid circuit failure 93 throttle positioner sensor input low 94 torque converter clutch solenoid circuit failure 95 fuel pump secondary circuit failure 96 fuel pump secondary circuit failure 97 transmission indicator circuit failure 98 electronic pressure control circuit failure 99 eec has not learned to control idle