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Re: 91 legend clutch specs
I am assuming you have never installed a clutch before. What you are asking about is a clutch alignment tool. It is a tool made from plastic that is identical to the output shaft of the transmission.
As you put the clutch disc, pressure plate up against the flywheel, just start the 6 or 8 bolts, but before tightening them down, push the clutch alignment tool all the way into the flywheel pilot bearing. The trick of this tool is to get a close approximation of alignment between the pressure plate, clutch disc and flywheel before tightening down the pressure plate bolts.
Depending on how good your eye is, will determine how easily your transmission will line up and slide in place.
As for any specs, there are none. It all in the eye.
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You need some very specialized tools to do that You'll need a jack to hold the transfer case once you remove all the bolts holding it to the transmission. Remove the drive shafts.Then you'll need to remove the transmission, again with a supporting jack. Once that has been accomplished , remove the bolts holding the clutch to the flywheel. I'd replace the pilot bearing in the flywheel that holds the input shaft to the gearbox before proceeding. There are special tools available to do that. Now assemble the clutch disk and the clutch plate and put the bolts back in without tightening them. Now take the clutch alignment tool and push it thru the clutch disk and into the new pilot bearing. position it so the clutch disk is dead center in the clutch plate and then finish tightening the bolts Put a new throw out bearing on the clutch release lever and reinstall the transmission and transfer case. Reinstall the drive shafts and replace any gear oil that may have spilled out of the transmission or transfer case. Adjust the clutch pedal clearance to spec and you're done.
special tools you need EN 48543 FAN CLUTCH HOLDING TOOL. J41240 FAN CLUTCH REMOVER AND INSTALLER. TORQUE FOR FAN CLUTCH NUT 41 LB FT. FOUR BOLTS TO FAN BLADE TORQUE 20 LB FT.WATER PUMP BOLTS TORQUE TO 11 LB FT. DONT NEED SPECIAL TOOLS REMOVE WATER PUMP.
Its pretty easy and self explanatory if you have mechanical abilities and all the tools. For $23.00 you can purchase a repair manual from your local auto parts. Also the book has torque specs and you can use it for future events should they arise. With the clutch kit did you get the clutch alignment tool also? You will also need a swivel socket with a 24" 3/8 extension to get to all the trans top bolts. best of luck to you and i hope all goes well.
You do need an alignment tool to align the clutch disc with the pilot bearing. There are inexpensive plastic ones available at many auto parts stores. As for the bolts, I have reused them many times without any problems, if you choose to use new bolts, your best bet is your Chrysler dealer, but I recommend torquing them to proper specs and in the tightening sequence that your manual states. I hope this helps a little.
You will need tools and a jack and a really good strong friend.
Remove the drive shaft. Unbolt the trans from the engine and put it aside. Unbolt the pressure plate and remove. The clutch plate will fall on you. Remove the fly wheel for resurfacing.
Take everything to the auto parts place that has a machine shop.
Get the flywheel resurfaced. Purchase a new/rebuilt clutch plate and rebuilt pressure plate. Get a new throw out bearing. Also get a clutch plate alignment tool while you are there.
When you get all the stuff together, reassemble it.
Put the fly wheel back in ... becareful of the starter. Add the clutch plate and the pressure plate. Use the alignment tool. Bolt it all back to proper torque spece. You will have to ask at the auto parts place for the torque specs. Oh yea, you will need a torque wrench for this.
Put the trans back in. You should probably change the universal joints while you are at it, front and rear.
Or - you could have a shop do this for about $500.00 to $1,000.00 and save on the band aids.
If the clutch assembly is to be reused, matchmark the pressure
plate and the flywheel so they can be assembled in the same position.
Install flywheel holding tool T84P-6375-A or equivalent, in a
transaxle mounting hole on the engine and engage the tooth of the
holding tool into the flywheel ring gear.
Fig. Fig. 1: Install a flywheel holding tool in a transaxle
mounting hole on the engine, and engage the tooth of the tool into the
flywheel ring gear
Loosen the pressure plate-to-flywheel retaining bolts one turn at
a time, in a crisscross pattern, until the spring tension is relieved,
to prevent pressure plate cover distortion.
Support the pressure plate and unfasten the retaining bolts. Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc from the flywheel.
If the flywheel shows any signs of overheating (blue discoloration)
or if it is badly grooved or scored, it should be refaced or replaced.
Inspect the flywheel, clutch disc, pressure plate, release
bearing, pilot bearing and the clutch fork for wear. Replace parts as
If removed, install a new pilot bearing using a suitable installation tool.
If removed, install the flywheel. Make sure the flywheel and
crankshaft flange mating surfaces are clean. Tighten the flywheel
retaining bolts to 71-76 ft. lbs. (96-103 Nm) on the 1.8L engine or
54-67 ft. lbs. (73-91 Nm) on the 1.9L engine.
Clean the pressure plate and flywheel surfaces thoroughly.
Position the clutch disc and pressure plate into the installed position
and support them with a dummy shaft or clutch aligning tool. If the
clutch assembly is being reused, align the matchmarks that were made
during the removal procedure.
Install the pressure plate-to-flywheel retaining bolts. Tighten
the bolts in the correct sequence to 13-20 ft. lbs. (18-26 Nm). Remove
the alignment tool.
Fig. Fig. 2: Position the clutch disc and pressure plate into the
installed position and support them with a clutch aligning tool
Fig. Fig. 3: Tighten the pressure plate-to-flywheel retaining bolts to specification in the sequence illustrated
If the release bearing was removed, lubricate the release fork
where it contacts the bearing and install the bearing in the fork.
Install the transaxle assembly.
Lower the vehicle.
Bleed the hydraulic clutch system, if needed.
Connect the negative battery cable.
Road test the vehicle and check the clutch for proper operation.
this is a big job for someone who is not mechanically inclined but....here it goes go buy a new clutch new tranny fluid and a haynes manual at the auto parts store your going to have to drain and drop your tranny ... BUY THE CLUTCH WITH THE TOOL theres an alignment tool needed to align the plates n bearings start by pulling off both tires, brakes and both cv axels be sure to remove the intermediate shaft from the tranny on the passenger side (should come out with the axel passenger side only) so do yourself a favor and buy an impact gun with at least 500 ft lbs torque youll need it also have handy your 14mm 17mm and 19mm impact sockets and remember this job usually runs around 1,200 bucks at firestone also DO NOT remove the bolt in the middle of the front springs under the hood just the four around it and the will pop out no prob and wont need to be clamped remove the starter behind your engine its under the oil filter also if your new to this sorta thing its gonna take you about 3 days to do it buy the impact gun if ur in a hurry look at a pawn shop have your flywheel machined its going to be accessible and it needs it hope this helps dont forget the book which you should already have bought anyway its good for your torque specs which you will also need a torque wrench for the clutch also dont crack open ur tranny this isnt a honda