Loss of power in mornings or at times it seems to surge. It can reach speed limit and will pass ounce warmed up turbo seems to be working no engine codes I am wondering if it could be exhaust of catalytic converter or fuel filter.
a 6ya Mechanic can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Mechanic (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Have the car scanned for fault codes. A power loss in a turbo motor can be caused by simple vacuum leaks. You can check for loose piping and clamps. There are various components in that car that could cause such a problem. These include the turbocharger itself, the turbo boost (N75) valve, wastegate and its linkage, the car's ECU, maybe even a non turbo fault like a clogged catalytic converter or vehicle misfire.
Older Model Computer Codes (OBDI) - IMPORTANT! Codes may be different for newer vehicles starting circa 1996.
11 No ignition reference signal detected during cranking OR timing belt
skipped one or more teeth; OR loss of either camshaft or crankshaft
12 Battery or computer recently disconnected
13 MAP sensor or vacuum line may not be working
14 MAP sensor voltage below .16V or over 4.96V
15 No speed/distance sensor signal
16 Loss of battery voltage detected with engine running
17 Engine stays cool too long (bad thermostat or coolant sensor?)
17 (1985 turbo only): knock sensor circuit
21 Oxygen sensor signal doesn't change (stays at 4.3-4.5V). Probably bad oxygen sensor
22 Coolant sensor signal out of range - May have been disconnected to set timing
23 Incoming air temperature sensor may be bad
24 Throttle position sensor over 4.96V
25 Automatic Idle Speed (AIS) motor driver circuit shorted or target idle not reached
26 Peak injector circuit voltage has not been reached (need to check computer signals, voltage reg, injectors)
27 Injector circuit isn't switching when it's told to (TBI)
OR (MPI) injector circuit #1 not switching right
OR (turbo) injector circuit #2 not switching right
OR (all 1990-) injector output driver not responding
- check computer, connections
31 Bad evaporator purge solenoid circuit or driver
32 (1984 only) power loss/limited lamp or circuit
32 EGR gases not working (1988) - check vacuum, valve
32 (1990-92) computer didn't see change in air/'fuel ratio when EGR activated - check valve, vacuum lines, and EGR electrical
33 Air conditioning clutch relay circuit open or shorted (may be in the
wide-open-throttle cutoff circuit or normal on early 80's models if you
don't have air conditioning)
34 (1984-86) EGR solenoid circuit shorted or open
34 (1987-1991) speed control shorted or open
35 Cooling fan relay circuit open or shorted
35 idle switch motor fault - check connections
36 (turbo only) Wastegate control circuit open or shorted
37 Shift indicator light failure, 5-speed
part throttle lock/unlock solenoid driver circuit (87-89)
solenoid coil circuit (85-87 Turbo only)
Trans temperature sensor voltage low (1995 and on)
41 Alternator field control circuit open or shorted
42 Automatic shutdown relay circuit open or shorted
42 Fuel pump relay control circuit
42 Fuel level unit - no change over miles
42 Z1 voltage missing when autoshutdown circuit energized (The Z1
voltage is the voltage of the circuits fed by the autoshutdown relay.
This typically includes fuel pump and switched-battery feed to the
43 Peak primary coil current not achieved with max dwell time
43 Cylinder misfire
43 Problem in power module to logic module interface
44 No FJ2 voltage present at logic board
44 Logic module self-diagnostics indicate problem
44 Battery temperature out of range
45 Turbo boost limit exceeded (engine was shut down by logic module)
46 Battery voltage too high during charging or charging system voltage too low
47 Battery voltage too low and alternator output too low
51 Oxygen sensor stuck at lean position (this may be tripped by a bad
MAP sensor system causing a rich condition. If you get hot rough idle
and stalling, especially on deceleration, accompanied by flooded engine
and difficulty restarting, that can be a bad MAP sensor causing the O2
sensor to try to compensate. If you get poor cold driveability,
stumbling and bucking, and acceptable warm driving with poor gas mileage
(a drop of 10 mpg or more), that is usually the O2 sensor.
51 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only).
52 Oxygen sensor stuck at rich position
52 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only)
53 Logic module internal problem
54 No sync pickup signal during engine rotation (turbo only)
54 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only) - or camshaft sensor/distributor timing
55 End of codes
61 "Baro" sensor open or shorted
62 EMR mileage cannot be stored in EEPROM
62 PCM failure SRI mile not stored
63 Controller cannot write to EEPROM
64 Catalytic converter efficiency failure
65 Power steering switch failure
66 No CCD Message From TCM and/or No CCD Message From BCM
It is 3000 rpm's. If you look at your tachometer closely it will indicate the numbers you are reading are x1000. Check your transmission fluid. Always check when warmed up and running. It's a good idea to have your automatic transmission serviced with a new filter & fluid and the cooler flushed.
[yes ]is the simple answer, a turbo starved of engine oil pressure even for a short period of time can blow the turbo; fit a new or a good second hand turbo.[hint]when testing a second turbo put your finger inside the turbo and spin it .a good turbo should spin quite easly for 3/4seconds with no noise.hope this helped you.adrian
sounds like a very common problem on turbo vag vehicles,the variable vains are sticking in the turbo,your fault code would have said....turbo boost pressure not reached.....common with v v t turbos,run a good quality fuel cleaner through it ,if that doesnt work then a new turbo is the only cure