Question about 1997 Honda Odyssey

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Sensor test plug

I can't locate the plug/socket for testing computer
about service engine lights on

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  • robertamidki Sep 19, 2008

    mechanic could not find it to install computer. Car mfg in Dec 1996 and I was told all Honda cars have it since

    that year. where is it?

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Yeah, should be just under the glove box, However I don't know if 97s are odb1? so its hard to say how much data they will be able to read off the computer.

Posted on Aug 27, 2011

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Computer box engine


If they say computer, then it might be computer. You have multi-meter that can test volts, amps, ohms? Find factory specs for sensors, how to properly test them...Analyze everything.

Feb 01, 2014 | Nissan Pickup Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Ignition


Step 1 - Anytime you have a problem with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) inspect all fuses using a test light and check the under hood power distribution center and under dash fuse panels. If all fuses test okay continue to the next step.
Step 2 - To check for problems with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) and the fuses test okay a trouble code scan is needed to identify any system trouble. Use a simple scanner tool to retrieve trouble codes and see if they relate to the specific problem, like a crank angle sensor failure code. If the trouble code present does not pertain to the immediate problem like an EVAP code ignore it until a later time, after the car is running.
The reason we repair non-related codes after the engine is running is because sometime false codes can be triggered by the engine not running. Once the engine is running again the code present might cycle and turn itself off. You might say "if the engine doesn't run shouldn't it have a trouble code?" Sometimes conditions occur that will not be detected by the computer, example: if the fuel pump fails the computer cannot detect the failure, so the engine doesn't start and the computer thinks everything is okay with no codes. If no trouble codes are present proceed to the next step.
Step 3 - The spark plugs in your engine are used to ignite the compressed fuel air mixture. If the condition of the spark plugs are fouled by excessive fuel or carbon the engine will not start, backfire or run rough. Remove all spark plugs to inspect their condition. Please use this spark plug condition reference guide to see how the spark plugs are operating.
Step 4 - Determine if the engine has compression, this can be done a number of ways but the most complete method is to perform a compression check. Remove the spark plugs and perform a compression test on one cylinder. If one cylinder has compression then the remaining cylinders usually will be close to the same. Crank the engine over about 5 seconds, normal compression readings should be between 125 psi and 160 psi on each cylinder. If no or little compression exists additional tests will be needed. The most common reason for an engine to lose compression is a timing belt or timing chain failure.
If low or no compression exists remove the oil fill cap and observe camshaft rotation when the engine is cranked over. If no rotation exists the timing belt or chain has failed. If your engine has a timing belt and you cannot see the camshaft easily remove the upper bolts to the timing cover and gain visual access to the belt, recheck cam rotation by cranking the engine over. Sometimes a timing belt or chain can jump causing the camshaft to lose correlation with the crankshaft and therefore causing low compression. The best test for this condition is to remove the timing belt/chain cover and inspect timing marks. If the compression is ok proceed to next step.
Step 5 - Test the ignition system output, ignition systems can vary in configuration but operate on the same principal. Ignition systems can consist of a coil, pick up coil, crank angle sensor, cam angle sensor, spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, ignition rotor and a distributor and any variations of these components. An ignition coil is a voltage stepper coil that transforms a low voltage (12 volts) signal into tens of thousands of volts needed to jump the gap of the spark plug.
This coil is activated by an ignition module triggered by using the camshaft/crankshaft angle sensor; timing is adjusted by the PCM (computer).This primary electrical signal is generated by the PCM which calculates spark timing by using a variety of sensors including coolant temperature, mass air flow, and oxygen sensors. To perform a basic ignition output test you must have a test light and follow the ignition system output test video.
If the ignition system test is weak or non-existent test the car fuses, both under hood power distribution center and the fuse panel under dash. This test is performed with a test light tool. The test light should illuminate on both sides of the fuse, if not the fuse has failed and needs to be replaced. If the fuses are ok a manufacturer specific repair procedure is required and an online auto repair manual is needed to continue. If the ignition system tests ok proceed to the next step.
Step 6 - Test fuel system pressure, test for proper fuel pressure with a test gauge on the fuel rail or in line somewhere in the system, most throttle body injection cars (TBI) are between 13 psi and 17 psi. Most (DPI) direct port inject systems are between 40 psi and 55 psi. If good fuel pressure is present continue to next step. If no or little fuel pressure is present check the fuel pump fuse and fuel pump control relay located in the fuse panel, you can find this fuse and relay by checking your owner's manual, back of the fuse panel cover diagram, or an online auto repair manual, if the fuse or relay has failed replace it a new unit and re-test.
(Note: some Ford cars have an inertia switch designed to cut off the fuel pump in the event of an accident. Sometimes this switch can accidentally be triggered causing the engine to not start. If the car is exposed to a random bump either in the road or by another car this switch can be triggered. To check for this condition locate the inertia switch, if the cut off switch has been active it will have a white or red indicator at the top of the switch. Push this indicator down to disarm the cut off switch, if the indicator does not move down it is not activated and is not the problem.)
Have a helper crank over the engine while you place your fingers over the relay, does the relay click under your fingers? If so the relay could be working, there is a chance the relay has burned contacts inside causing the problem but we will get back to that. Next, access the fuel pump power feed wire, there are a few ways to do this, first you need a wiring schematic to find the color wire needed for testing, the best way to do this is with an online auto repair manual. Once you have found the color wire it should be located in the wiring harness near the fuel tank were the pump is located.
Ground the test light and probe (pierce the wire's outer coating with the test light point) the wire, have a helper crank the engine over. If the test light illuminates and you have no fuel pressure the fuel pump had failed and needs to be replaced. If the test light doesn't illuminate the fuel pump control relay has probably failed, replace it with a new unit and re-test, in most cases this relay is under thirty dollars. There is an outside chance the power feed to the relay has failed but it doesn't happen very often. If this is the case use an auto repair manual to trace the power source to the relay.
Step 7 - Test fuel injector pulse and supply voltage output (test is used for most cars). This test will tell you if the computer system has operating voltage and injector trigger signal. Remove an electrical connector from a fuel injector (it doesn't matter which injector) probe both sides of the connector with a grounded test light (there are only two terminals). Have a helper turn the key to the "on" position without cranking the engine and observe the test light. The test light should illuminate one side of the connector only.
Next, switch the test light lead to the positive side of the battery to test the system ground injector trigger, probe the side of the connector that did not light up, have a helper crank the engine over and observe the test light, it should blink on and off. If this test checks ok continue to next step. (Note: if no injector pulse is present try disconnecting the remainder of injectors and re-test, if a fuel injector is shorted it can shut down the injector driver causing no injector pulse. If injector pulse returns plug injectors electrical connectors in one at a time until the pulse fails and replace that injector)
If this test revealed that there was no pulse but system has power the PCM is not generating a fuel injector trigger. If there is no trigger to the fuel injector it will not allow fuel to enter into the engine. Some of the most popular reasons that can cause this condition include a shorted crankshaft angle sensor, shorted camshaft position sensor or shorted PCM. (When a system trouble code scan is performed it does not always catch a crankshaft angle sensor, camshaft position sensor failure).
Tip: try disconnecting all non-essential sensors, example: oxygen sensor, coolant sensor, throttle position sensor, air intake temperature sensor, mass air flow or map sensor and EGR valve pressure differential sensor. Crank the engine over, if the injector pulse returns, one of the sensors is shorted causing the system to not operate. Plug the sensors in one at a time until the injector pulse fails then replace that sensor and reassemble.
(Note: Some Ford cars have an EGR valve pressure differential sensor that when the catalytic converter becomes slightly plugged will melt the sensor causing the system to shut down. Inspect sensor for melting at the electrical connector then repair or replace as needed and recheck).
If the test reveals that the connector has no power on either side at any time the system power has been disrupted. Some of the most common reasons for this is condition are the main PCM fuse, main PCM power relay and main PCM power feed wire failure. (Some vehicle PCM feed wires are located near the battery and corrosion can stop the voltage feed). If all power sources check out the system ground needs to be checked, this is done by reversing the test light lead and installing it on the positive side of the battery.
Now the test light will illuminate when grounded. Use the test light to check main system grounds to the PCM, most system ground wires are black but to be sure you will need an online auto repair manual. If repairs have recently been made a system ground lead could have been left off of the engine causing the system not to power up, so double check all engine wiring harness grounds.
Step 8 - If the engine has compression, ignition and fuel injector pulse and the engine still doesn't run it could have a plugged exhaust system. Disconnect the exhaust system before the catalytic converter and crank over, if the engine starts the car has a plugged converter or exhaust system. Disassemble the exhaust system to inspect to replace the exhaust component that has failed and reassemble to recheck.

Jan 07, 2012 | Chevrolet Express Cargo Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Both coolant fans stopped working Checked both fuses the 40a and 50a both good


Hi, here are some things to check:

If you have a 12 volt test light, connect the test light to battery positive and probe the black wire with a brown stripe at the fan connector. The light should light, or you need to repair the ground connection.

Start the car and let it heat up. Then, assuming your horn works, borrow the horn relay to check the fan relays. Mark it so you know which one is good. Put the horn relay in each of the 3 fan relay sockets, one at a time, leaving the other relays in place. If putting the horn realy in any of the fan relay sockets works to turn the fans on, leave it there and buy a new relay for the horn.

If this does not work, pull out the fan high relay, start the car again (engine still hot) and probe the relay socket with your test light. Terminal 85 should light the test light.

If still no-go, you will need a voltmeter for the next test. Leave the sensor connected and use the voltmeter to probe the back of the coolant temperature sensor. Check the voltage on the sensor wires with the engine running. The reading should be between 1-5 volts DC. If not, replace the sensor.

If none of this works, consider replacing the front control module (in the same box as the fuses and relays).

Please let me know if you have questions, and thanks for using FixYa.

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coolant temp sensor location:
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Jun 05, 2011 | 2005 Chrysler 300

1 Answer

Can I reset the check engine lamp myself? I recently dropped the gas tank lid. It appears to be fine, but can a damaged gas tank lid cause issues like this? The most consistent issue is the inability...


Please don't forget to rate me.. this will help me



The Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor monitors crankshaft position and speed. Your vehicle computer uses this information, along with data from other vehicle sensors, to maintain ignition timing. As a result, problems with the crank sensor or circuit will prevent the engine from starting. If you suspect a bad CKP on your car, follow this guide to test the unit and, if necessary, replace it.

    Testing
  1. With your CKP sensor, you can test for voltage output and compare the results to manufacturer specifications. If your voltmeter comes with needle probes, back probe the wires at the sensor connector. If this is not possible, unplug the sensor electrical connector and plug the two halves to a test connector or a couple of jumper wires. Then plug back the connector.

    Set your digital multimeter to AC milivolts range and have a helper crank the engine. A typical sensor will have an output above 200 mV. However, you should compare your results with the specifications listed in the service manual for your particular vehicle.

    If your service manual gives a resistance value, you can test the sensor without having to crank up the engine. Unplug the sensor and connect the meter probes to each sensor wire connector. Set your meter to Ohms and compare your reading to the resistance value specified in your service manual. If your voltage or resistance values are out of specifications, replace the sensor.

    If your test results are within specifications, check the sensor electrical connector and wiring harness. It is common for loose connectors or broken wires to keep the sensor from communicating with the Engine Management System (EMS). Also, make sure to check the trigger wheel. The wheel, located on the crankshaft or damper, may have missing or damaged teeth. Any of these parts or components may trigger a CKP sensor or circuit trouble code. Replacing the Sensor
  2. Look for the CKP sensor at the front or side of the engine (see Resources). It is usually held in place by a single bolt. Lift the front of your vehicle using a floor jack and support it on two jack stands. Then unplug the sensor electrical connector and remove the bolt with a ratchet and socket.

    When installing the new unit, make sure the mounting surface is completely clean to keep the exact distance from the tip of the sensor to the trigger wheel. On some particular models, you might need to adjust the sensor air gap, or its distance from the wheel, before locking the unit in place. If necessary, follow the instructions on your particular vehicle manual for this adjustment.

Mar 03, 2011 | 2003 Chrysler 300M

1 Answer

My check engine light came on then after that the car doesn't accelerate rapid enough...


It could be a sensor. Most likely and commonly unless your fuel filter is plugged. Computer Check/Service engine lights are connected to the computer so any time anything electrical or electronical goes faulty, your check/service engine light will come one. You should have the car's computer hooked up to a code reader or diagnostic scanner which many part stores will test for free. This tester can tell you what's wrong with the car as well as shut off the service engine light.

Dec 28, 2010 | 2006 Honda Accord

3 Answers

My fan wont work.when the engine is hot.


First check the fuse in the engine compartment relay box. If not the fuse, you will need a 12 volt test light (or voltmeter) to troubleshoot, as there are several possible reasons. With the engine hot and running, pull the connector off the fan and use your test light to see if there is voltage in the connector. If there is voltage, replace the motor. In no voltage, move on to the relay. pull the relay out of the socket (in the same box as the fuse). If it clicks when you pull it out, your wiring to the fan is bad. If it doesn't click, try switching it with a similar relay. If a different relay clicks when put in the fan relay socket, your fan should now be coming on. If neither relay clicks, interrogate the relay socket with your test light. Put your clip on a chassis ground point and probe the terminals into the relay socket. If 2 of the sockets light up the light, the system is trying to throw the relay. If not, the likely problem is the PCM or the coolant temp sensor, which is read by the PCM. Hopefully you don't get to this point, as I assume your temp gage is working. Let me know if you have questions.

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Oct 27, 2010 | 2003 Pontiac Sunfire

2 Answers

How do you reset the service engine light?


Locate the diagnostic connector. On the 1997 Nissan Maxima the connector is located in the OBD2 standardized location under the driver-side dash, slightly to the right of the steering column. With the ignition key in the "OFF" position, plug the connector of the scan tool into the diagnostic connector of the car. Turn the ignition key to the run position but do not start the engine unless instructed to by the scan tool.

Turn the scan tool on and select "Global OBD2" from the main menu. Select "Diagnostic Trouble Codes" from the first sub-menu, and then "Read Trouble Codes" from the second sub-menu. Write down all listed codes and their descriptions before erasing them. This will save time if you must perform additional diagnostics.

Press the back button on the scan tool until the second sub-menu is displayed, and select "Erase Codes" or "Clear Codes," depending on the manufacturer of the scan tool. A message will appear asking you to confirm your desire to erase the codes and other stored data. Select "Yes". The scan tool will alert you when the codes have been erased.

Test drive the vehicle to verify the repair is complete. The 1997 Nissan Maxima on-board computer will run a series of tests on the systems in the vehicle, including emission control devices. To complete these tests you must take two test drives that include a variety of driving conditions, with a 2-minute cool-down between each test drive. If the service engine soon light does not come back on during these two test drives, you have completed the repairs and the reset.

Oct 25, 2010 | 1997 Nissan Maxima

3 Answers

ENGINE CHECK LIGHT ON


If the vehicle is running ok then u must have a problem with the emissions . U will be req to plug your vehicle into a fault code reader to determine the fault usually it is a oxygen sensor which is located b4 and after the catalyst

Oct 06, 2010 | 2002 Kia Sportage

1 Answer

I have a 96 Caravan 3.3 the engine dies at a red light or just at idle after it get hot... Normal Hot. As long as your going it does fine or in the winter time it never dies... Something getting hot and...


Take a hard look at the (ECT) engine coolant temperature sensor on the engine. The location for the sensor is just to the right side of the thermostat. To test the sensor on the engine use an ohm meter to do test. With the engine cold remove plug from sensor and connect the testing leads to sensor (do not let the two leads touch one another during test). Test should show 7,000 to 13,000 ohms. and when the engine has run and got hot retest it again, the reading should be 700-1,000 ohms. If any of this test is wrong then replace the sensor. Hope this will help you.

May 23, 2010 | 1996 Dodge Caravan

2 Answers

Rear tail and stop lights are out


I have just sent you 4 PDFs via e-mail. They should help you out.

Dec 31, 2008 | 1993 Toyota Camry V6

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