Question about 1985 Jeep CJ7

1 Answer

Jeep 2.5L automatic, as I turn the key to start I have spark out of coil but when turning the engine over to start I loses the power out of the coil and when you stop trying to turn it over the coil sparks, I have tried it with the key on and jump the starter selinoid and the same results, power to the coil + all the time the switch is on and even when trying to crank over the engine, what is the problem, changed coil, ignition mod., same results

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  • Jeep Master
  • 7,300 Answers

Check the wire from the solenoid to the coil. Should be a red wire with a stripe on the second small terminal of the solenoid.


jeep 2.5L automatic, as I turn the key to start I - jturcotte_2347.gif

Posted on Sep 30, 2011

Testimonial: "Jeff I really thank you for helping me with this, I do this for a living and this has me stumped, THANK YOU."

  • 15 more comments 
  • Ricky Gittins
    Ricky Gittins Sep 30, 2011

    What am I looking for Jeff

  • Jeff Turcotte
    Jeff Turcotte Sep 30, 2011

    Is the wire on the correct terminal of the solenoid? Is it connected to the coil positive terminal? Is the wire possibly broken under the insulation?

  • Ricky Gittins
    Ricky Gittins Sep 30, 2011

    there is a small relay (I think it's a relay) mounted on the right fender with a red/white stripe wire (with black ground wire attached) any ways it is corroded, but I don't know what it is, but the wire is red/white stripe

  • Jeff Turcotte
    Jeff Turcotte Sep 30, 2011

    There should not be a ground wire attached. That wire is to power your coil while the engine is cranking. The relay is actually your starter solenoid, as seen on the diagram above.

  • Ricky Gittins
    Ricky Gittins Sep 30, 2011

    while cranking I have power to the coil, I read this but don't understand the abreviations, I had one power supply wire to the muc. that had lost its feed from the battery preventing power the the dist. from the muc. Once I supplied power to the red wire in the bulk head connector #72 the jeep started on first crank. There is two (2) battery feeds to the muc. and I had lost one of them to a broken wire in the dash near the bulk head connector.

  • Jeff Turcotte
    Jeff Turcotte Sep 30, 2011

    I don't understand that either--don't know what they mean by "muc." So you have power to the coil but no sparks. You only get sparks when you are just turning the ket to start and when you let off the key? Have you swapped out the ignition module in the distributor?

  • Ricky Gittins
    Ricky Gittins Sep 30, 2011

    Yes to the turning of the key, but the dist. only has a pick-up coil and the ignition mod. is on the left rear fender

  • Ricky Gittins
    Ricky Gittins Sep 30, 2011

    now I know the steering column is a chevy column (or just like one) it has the switch on the lower column, what do you think about that as the culpit

  • Ricky Gittins
    Ricky Gittins Sep 30, 2011

    The way I discribe it is when the engine turns over the coil primary is grounding out

  • Jeff Turcotte
    Jeff Turcotte Sep 30, 2011

    OK, if the pickup coil looks OK, I would suspect the module. If the coil is getting power when the key is turned to start, then so does the module. You should verify the red/white wire is getting power to the module. If not, it's the wire--not the ignition switch.
    You do have a GM Saginaw column with the switch on the side, but I don't think that's the problem in this case.

  • Ricky Gittins
    Ricky Gittins Sep 30, 2011

    Cool, I'll test that wire, yes on the column, I turned the key to the start position and tried starting it from the starter solinod, the results were the same, The possitive side of the coil gets brighter when trying to crank engine, alright i'm going to test it, thanks again. I'll let you know the results.

  • Jeff Turcotte
    Jeff Turcotte Sep 30, 2011

    The coil normally runs on 9 volts, as the power from the run position of the key goes thru the ballast resistor. When the key is turned to start, you are getting a full 12 volts from the solenoid direct to the coil. That is why your test light is brighter.

  • Ricky Gittins
    Ricky Gittins Oct 01, 2011

    well I have power to the ignitiom mod. something is leading me back to the pick up coil, I am getting info from a proff. michells repair, hell he pays good money to get the latest update, it has all the test proceedures, this jeep has me ******, I WIN Always,

  • Jeff Turcotte
    Jeff Turcotte Oct 01, 2011

    If you have the spec for the pick up coil and an ohmmeter, I would check it. Because the current there is minimal, they do not usually fail unless there is an accidental power source applied. My bet is on the module.

  • Ricky Gittins
    Ricky Gittins Oct 01, 2011

    well it's alive, and you were right on, Ignition mod was bad, it was a new one, so after testing I went and replace it and varrrrrooooom

  • Jeff Turcotte
    Jeff Turcotte Oct 01, 2011

    cool beans, have fun with it.

  • Ricky Gittins
    Ricky Gittins Oct 02, 2011

    Thanks again.

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or do you mean it's turning over but engine wont start?

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fuses are always first.
you said no power to the coil that means 12vdc power.
so hows car run with no power to coil no electric power?
ok, seems its , running good, then you lose engine power (not usage of word engine) then you find loss of 12vdc power to the ignition coil
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the 4.2 liter gets power from a ballast resistor.
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I have a 1995 jeep (country) cherkee that will turn over but not start, no spark still after changing the crankshaft position sensor, any ideas


On Chrysler products, you check the ASD relay for power and then the coil for power and a ground pulse from the distributor.
I am assuming you do not have spark at the coil and at the plugs and this is the 4.0 engine with a distributor.

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I would make sure you have voltage to the coil. Could be a fuse or relay problem. Is the check engine light on when you turn the key on ?

Aug 16, 2012 | 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

96 grand cherokee 4.0 was would lose power then pick back up was idleing really ruff shut off went back after acouple of hours tried to start then just died won,t start no spark replaced coil wire cap and...


A very similar experience happened yesterday with my son's '95 Cherokee Country, same 4.0L engine. Suddenly jerking, trying to die, then catching again. When he stopped and turned the car off, just like yours, wouldn't start and no spark...and in his case, bad fuel pump, too.
After changing that, we started looking for the no spark problem. First checked the dark green wire (+, or the power feed) to the coil, and nothing there with key on. No voltage. Strange, so I went back and rechecked all the fuses in the little box by the battery. All good (a very easy way to check a fuse is with a testlight: Just clip the lead on the negative battery post and, with key on, use the probe to touch the little slot on each end of the fuse. When ignition key is on, all fuses are powered, and if the testlight lights up on both ends of the fuse, you know it's a good fuse. You don't have to pull it out to check it- it's good.) So fuses were good, and I even swapped relays for the Auto Shutdown Relay, wondering if that could cause no signal to the coil. Still nothing. Because it is so easy to check on a Jeep, I checked another thing that may cause a no start, no spark condition: the Crank Position Sensor. On the rear top of the engine, right above the end of the intake manifold, is the three wire electrical connector for the CPS. To check the sensor, pull the connector apart, and on the sensor side of the connector, check for continuity (with an ohmmeter) between terminals B and C (marked on the connector-although mine weren't). There should be no continuity. That's the only test given for the Jeep's Crank Position Sensor.
Well, in my case it turned out to be a badly mangled pick-up coil assembly inside the distributor. That helps the computer determine crankshaft position and adjust spark timing. You need to start as I did with checking for power to the coil. If you have power there on the green wire with the key on, then start by checking the coil-it can be tested, then check the ignition control module-test it at a parts store, next check the two sensors -CPS and the pick-up coil (on earlier models was referred to as the cam position sensor). The distributor is a pain to remove and install, if you have to.. You may need to consult a repair manual for proper installation. I hope you find your problem. One last tidbit: this is my son's second Jeep he bought with the motor mount on the passenger side (right by the distributor) missing all the bolts for the mount's bracket onto the engine block. It made the engine sag to that side, and may have bumped the distributor housing hard enough to destroy his pickup coil. So do check your engine mount on that side.od luck.

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1 Answer

Engine won't start


If you turn the key to ON position and its not cranking at all,then its battery fault.If its cranking but not starting at all.That means the starter is also getting power.So if its cranks but not start then there are few possibilities to be checked.But if its not craning and no noise then battery and starter are to be checked.In other case :----

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1 Answer

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If your engine cranks normally but will not start because it has no spark, or it stalls and won't restart because it has no spark.

You can also do a test to confirm the problem .The procedure to do the test is as follows:---

If your engine has spark plug wires, disconnect one of the plug wires from a spark plug and place the end of the wire near a metal surface on the engine. Then insert a small Phillips screwdriver into the end of the wire (the plug boot), or a small bolt or nail to provide a conductive path. Then crank the engine and look for a spark to jump from the screwdriver, bolt or nail in the end of the plug wire to the engine. If you do not see a spark, there is an ignition problem.

OR-----------

If your engine has a coil-on-plug ignition system with no plug wires, In that case remove one of the coils from the spark plug and insert an old spark plug, a spark plug tester or a screwdriver into the end of the coil. Ground the spark plug or plug tester to the engine, then crank the engine and look for a spark. No spark indicates an ignition problem.If the engine has no spark, check for voltage at the coil positive terminal when the ignition key is on. If NO voltage, then problem is on the trigger side of the coil (pickup, crank sensor, ignition module or primary wiring circuit).

But If there is NO voltage at the coil itself, then in that case the problem is on the supply side (the ignition switch or ignition wiring circuit).-----------------

Jeep cranks but no start:----------------

A jeep that cranks over but doesn't start, in many cases will be due to a bad fuel pump, a broken timing belt, an inoperative cam sensor or crank sensor. Also these problems are related to faulty spark plug. Check the spark at spark plugs when you start the jeep. Do you notice any spark. Actually you should see. If in case there is no spark then it's a spark plug problem. Also the coil pack gives power to spark plug. So check the voltage at coil pack. It will show 12 volt. If there is no voltage noticed at coil pack then its faulty coil pack that has to be replaced. If all the possible options checked out ok then check the car starter. The starter gets power from battery to start the jeep. If the starter is faulty then it will not let the car to start. Also check and confirm that there is fuel in the jeep. If its very low fuel then in some cases this causes the problem. Also check and confirm that fuel pump is functioning properly and the fuel filter is not clogged. One of the easiest ways to check for a fuel pump related problem is to spray a little starting fluid into the air intake while trying to start the jeep. If the car starts momentarily, then there's a good chance the fuel pump is not working or the jeep is out of gas. You can also listen for the fuel pump's humming sound when the key is first turned on. Also if a inoperative fuel pump is suspected, a good technician will always check to verify there is power and ground being supplied to the pump, to eliminate the possibility of a bad relay or electrical issue. Fuel pressure can be checked with a pressure gauge and if there is pressure, pulse can be checked at the fuel injectors in several ways including the most common, with the use of noid lights. If the injectors don't have pulse the engine won't start. ---------- This troubleshooting tips will help you to solve the problem. Thanks. Helpmech.

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3 Answers

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Start the engine and try gently wiggling the key and see if it dies.....
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