Question about 1991 Ford Thunderbird

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1990 T-Bird LX Brake booster R&R

I can't gain enough clearance to remove (then replace) the booster. I've removed the wiper support, and even the LF top A-frame pivot bolt. The rear pushrod is still one inch too long. Is there any way to hold the pushrod into the booster whilst being removed (then reinstalled)???

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  • cnj1011 Sep 30, 2008

    same problem. i cant get the bastard out!!! ive even tried to remove the valve cover but that wont come off because the booster is in the way

  • tomclark Nov 08, 2008

    I finally R&R'd the power brake booster by first removing the brake master cylinder from the vehicle, (IT WAS LEAKING FLUID INTO THE BOOSTER FROM THE REAR SEAL WICH CAUSED THE BOOSTER TO FAIL ANYWAY), removing the entire wiper assembly tray (careful with the washer fluid tubes!), removing the nut from the Lft Fnt upper suspension control arm bushing bolt and pushing the bolt completely flush with the shock tower (DO NOT REMOVE THE BOLT COMPLETELY !), turning the booster inboard toward the engine, and prying up slightly on the cowel support where the wiper assembly was.
    Installation was in opposite order, with assistance from a helper to hold the booster in place as the nuts are attached from inside the vehicle. Be careful to properly re-attach all electrical, wiper fluid, and vacuum lines. ( My cruize control failed durring thr road test due to the vacuum pull-off valve having been mis-aligned durring re-assembly of the brake pedel attachments.)
    This much disassembly was very time consuming, and as a result most flat-rate shops won't touch the job because of the poorly written proceedure in the shop manual and flat-rate book. However, it did afford the opportunity to inspect and service (lubricate) the wiper assembly and clean out the cowl area.
    This job took me over 12 man hours to complete, including installation of the new master cylinder, bleeding the brakes, etc.. At today's shop labor rates, this otherwise simple job on other makes and models, would have exceeded the dollar value of the car!



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I had trouble getting the booster out also. I have a 1990 ford thunder bird and I had no brakes. So the booster was a concern so I started to tackle the problem.
Finding out that the booster is in a very tight spot. so I removed the wiper cowel and the nut that is on the inner fender facing the booster. I then placed 2 2x4 on the inner fender and the other end on the alternator. then using the longest pry bar i had I then placed the end of bar on the front side of booster bottom and then using the boards as backing pryed up as high as possible then took a smaller pry bar to finish the last little bit that I couldn't get with the larger pry bar.the rest of the way was smooth sailing. if you run in trouble with the new ones studs not lining up then have a helper move the brake petal bracket flush with fire wall then once you see the studs going through and cant seem to move any farther then use a board to help by prying against the inner fender. place the board between the hood and hood shock that should get you the rest of the way or get enough through the firewall to get a nut on all three and then run them in .

Posted on Jan 25, 2009

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Dont have room to remove thr rod

Posted on Nov 08, 2008


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