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Re: 1996 honda accord
Hello first thing you need to do is purchase a master install it on a work bench vise snug do not over tighten some come with out the top bottle you will have to pull the old bottle off the old reservoir if so if has a new bottle on it great now same come with a bleeder hose kit if not purchase seperate very cheap to buy now install plastic threaded ends into your master push hoses over end take other end put into your top of master or small can with brakefluid make sure this stays submerged fill master to line with cover off slowly push the piston in on the back off master untill no more bubbles occur now leave that go to the car carefully break lines free on master undo two nuts holding it againt power booster take out install new master on car in reverse order attach lines now with the help of someone apply down on brake pedal slowly do not force down to fast you can blow a master that way once down open one line let air escape tighten let pedal come back up do the same for other now tighten both lines apply pedal slowly up and down you should start getting a pedal same procedure again the two lines until all air is gone retighten lines once you have a good pedal keep the cover on the master now pump pedal up normally hold light pressure after a few pumps take cover off of master now watch inside have your helper take foot off pedal quick watch for any geisure type ripples if so rebleed there is still air in the system once done you should re fill master all set goodluck please rate
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not enough information but if they're squeaking when your blood pressure replace the pads or shoes if they feel hard as a rock bad brake booster if there's spongy bad master cylinder vaya automotive repair book
there are different ways to bench bleed the master depending on the tools available to you... did you receive a fitting, with or without a port for a small hose, in the new master box? if not then you should make one or get one at the parts store. you need to put the master in a vice (from the mount, not the body) and fill it with fluid. this is where the fitting comes in handy, you are going slowly depress the piston about half way at first having the fluid that comes out the port directed back into the reservoir with a hose. keep the hose submerged. if a vice and fittings are not available, you can mount the master in the vehicle, connect the line and fill with fluid. disconnect the line from the slave cylinder and submerge it in a container. press the pedal by hand slowly. make sure the line stays submerged and the master is never run dry. if everything is kept clean, you can reuse the fluid from the catch container.
Let's look at your slave cylinder and your master cylinder. Under the hood of your car are two master cylinders, and physically, they are close together. They are found right in front of you as you drive the car, except they are under the hood and about chest high. My 1990 has them right along side one another. The brake master cylinder reservoir is about 4 inches in diameter, the clutch master cylinder reservoir is about 3 inches in diameter. Both of them take quality brake fluid. Sounds like your clutch master cylinder is dry of brake fluid. It would be nice if all you had to do was to add brake fluid to the "fill" line, but then you'd have air in that system, and it would need to be "bled" to work. If you do find the brake fluid low, very likely the slave cylinder needs replacement, as your car is the right age to need this. Be blessed.
The fact that you say it is an intermitant problem makes me think your new master cyl is no good. If it happened all the time , I would suggest bleeding the system , and adjusting (tightening) the rear brakes.
If it is the Master , I would expect you would loose a bit of fluid , but you might not see any because it would be leaking out the end of the master and into the booster unit.
Well the master cylinder should have brake fluid in it, not oil. Oil belongs in the oil pan on the bottom of the crankcase. On a car that old it is not unusual for it to leak, often times leaking in more than one place. Cost to repair versus benefit of no leaks has to be considered. Gaskets around the valve covers and oil pan are likely places to find leaks. Working on brakes requires some knowledge, can be dangerous to work on them yourself, replacing the master cylinder is usually straightforward disconnect the brake lines, remove the nuts holding it onto the vacuum boost, bolt the new one in place, reconnect the brake lines. Then it must be bled and therein lies your lament.
check the slave and clutch master cylinder for leakage. look under the dash , at the clutch master) push rod attached to the clutch pedal) . try to see if there are any leaks around it. if so have it replaced and have the system bled to remove all fluid and air stuck in the system.
i think youre doing the right thing. they are very stubborn to bleed because the hyd. line goes up high across back of engine before droppiing back down to slave cyl., trapping air. could try to gravity bleed by opening bleeder at slave, cap off of master cyl, full with fluid then it may start to come out after a bit. then try your process again. or can try to bleed at connections further up the line, working your way back to bleeder. hope this helps. be patient.