Question about 1991 Honda Accord

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Engine won't start

The car stopped one day and now it cranks but won't start. There is no spark comming from the distributor. All lights fuses ans all electrical works. Fuel is evident as well.

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  • Dustin28 Sep 18, 2008

    Where is this located? Is it one of the components located under the cap on the distributor?

  • Anonymous Sep 21, 2008

    what is an ignitor

  • Anonymous Dec 29, 2008

    The car was running fine and we got a lot of rain and the humidity was very high. The car did not start once but then started a short time after. The next day the car would not start at all. Changed rotor button and distributor cap. Checked coil and alternator, both were fine. Car still will not start. does not seem to be any spark at the plug. Checked the voltage at the coil and the ignitor wires according to a Haynes manual and the voltages seem to be correct. Is there a way to test the ignitor, as they are $100. + and I would like to be sure of the problem before I fork out the cash??????

  • jon05ink Dec 29, 2008

    Sounds like I have the same Problem. My question is, can I use an aftermarket brand or does the part have to be a Hitachi????

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  • Honda Master
  • 77,169 Answers

Change the igniter, that is the most common problem.

Posted on Sep 18, 2008

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Cranks but wont start


Engine Cranks But Will Not Start

For an engine to run, you need three things to happen inside the engine. Compression, fuel and ignition, without any one of these components the engine will not run.
Basic Checks:

A. Test Fuses. Test both under hood power distribution center and the fuse panel under dash. This is done with a test light tool. The test light should illuminate on both sides of the fuse, if not the fuse has failed and needs to be replaced.
B. Testing Fuel Pressure Test for proper fuel pressure with a test gauge on the fuel rail, most throttle body injection cars (TBI) are between 13 psi and 17 psi. and most (DPI) direct port inject systems are between 40 psi and 55 psi. If no or little fuel pressure is observed and there is 12 volt power present the fuel pump, the fuel pump needs replacing.
C. Checking Timing Belt Test for compression by removing a spark plug and insert a compression gauge. Crank the engine over about 5 seconds the gauge should read between 125 psi and 165 psi, if no compression is observed remove front engine cover to inspect timing belt or chain. Crank engine to observe cam rotation, if the cam does not rotate the timing belt or chain has failed. (note: if the timing belt drives the water pump it is best to replace the water pump at this time)
D. Test for Injector Pulse Remove injector connector to insert injector test light (node) or volt meter. Observe light flash or gauge pulse while cranking. If light/voltmeter doesn't respond, an ignition distributor/crank angle sensor (CKS) or an ignition module is most likely your problem.
E. Test for Ignition Spark Remove spark plug wire, insert an extra spark plug into end of wire, rest spark plug next to a ground source then crank engine. You should observe a blue spark between the spark plug gap and ground source. If no spark is observed, an ignition coil, ignition rotor or spark plug wires might have failed. (always keep hands away from engine when cranking)

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Doesn't start


1. Test Fuses. Test both under hood power distribution center and the fuse panel under dash. This is done with a test light tool. The test light should illuminate on both sides of the fuse, if not the fuse has failed and needs to be replaced.
2.Testing Fuel Pressure Test for proper fuel pressure with a test gauge on the fuel rail, most throttle body injection cars (TBI) are between 13 psi and 17 psi. and most (DPI) direct port inject systems are between 40 psi and 55 psi. If no or little fuel pressure is observed and there is 12 volt power present the fuel pump, the fuel pump needs replacing.
3.Checking Timing Belt Test for compression by removing a spark plug and insert a compression gauge. Crank the engine over about 5 seconds the gauge should read between 125 psi and 165 psi, if no compression is observed remove front engine cover to inspect timing belt or chain. Crank engine to observe cam rotation, if the cam does not rotate the timing belt or chain has failed. (note: if the timing belt drives the water pump it is best to replace the water pump at this time)
4.Test for Injector Pulse Remove injector connector to insert injector test light (node) or volt meter. Observe light flash or gauge pulse while cranking. If light/voltmeter doesn't respond, an ignition distributor/crank angle sensor (CKS) or an ignition module is most likely your problem.
5.Test for Ignition Spark Remove spark plug wire, insert an extra spark plug into end of wire, rest spark plug next to a ground source then crank engine. You should observe a blue spark between the spark plug gap and ground source. If no spark is observed, an ignition coil, ignition rotor or spark plug wires might have failed. (always keep hands away from engine when cranking)

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