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Re: 2001 Trooper turbodiesel oil pressure gauge
Check oil pressure with test gauge from near large engine oil filter and cooler assembly, to rule out sender unit issue, if same readings check oil pick up sucking air O ring leaking?
releif valves in oil filter cooler assembly, stuck/jamming open?
if vehicle has been sitting for a couple of days and this happens light should only stay on 1-2 seconds go out and then gauge starts reading
have seen this on older higher km vehicles bad ones have balance shaft centre journal in sump worn out (new sump)
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if you have a 4jx1 3.0 engine then the engine wont run properly because engine oil pressure is what drives the direct injection system.
Check for blocked oil filters 2 pieces if not remove the oil pan and check the oil pickup tube for oil sludge blockage
in a shop we ignore the dash gauges and use REAL gauges.
we attach a real gauge to the sender port. on engine block. and read the true pressure.
the lamp on most cars go on at 3 to 5psi.
this is catastrophic failure. that low.
my guess, is you let oil drop and you wrecked bearings.
but let the real gauge prove that , dont guess.
Sender unit is situated on the LH side(if you're sitting in the
vehicle) of the cylinder block ahead of the starter motor. Problems
with oil pressure are rarely because of a faulty sender. Your problem
starts once the oil has heated up which would indicate worn internals.
Start by replacing the oil and oil filter. If this does not solve the
problem other possible solutions are worn Main and big-end bearings,
worn camshaft bearings, or worn crankshaft and/or camshaft. All of the
above require engine removal.
A problem I have had with my diesel is a failed O-ring on the oil pump. This repair also requires engine removal.
The ECU will be fine with a engine rebuild but the 4JX takes a bit longer to start if all the injector oil paths are empty - can be up to 5 or 6 mins of 20 second cranking bursts.
Also if you rebuilt due to diesel in the oil from bad injectors the control valve for the injector oil pressure may be faulty so it wont start.
I'd check to see what is in the crankcase currently; with modern multirange oils, that sounds high.
The typical operating range is from 30-60#; 10 seems low for an idle pressure but then idiot lights are supposed to trigger at ~ 4# pressure.
If it was mine, I would change oil and put a multirange type suitable for your area in it to see what influence it has.
If you are in a temperate climate as I am, it might be time to change from summer to a winter range; 10W30 is good for us and 10W40 in summer (WV).