I drove for about 28 miles than notice the temp gauge very hot pulled over
heard boiling going on waited 10 mins than open cap lots steam and
pressure came out i then filled with water started car gauge still very
hot I then shut the car off removed themostat then started car
temp was normal so i drove for about 7 miles then got really hot and
car turned off while driving.
waited 5min started it again because I was on the bridge stopping traffic drove 4 more miles turned off again the fan turns on and how can i check the water pump
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is the cooling fan cutting in ? run the engine whilst stationary with the hood up , give it a little gas 2000revs and wait for the temp gauge to rise ,the cooling fan should be heard cutting in , and off again once cooled the engine temp down ,this may take 10-15 mins but you have to be sure the fan is cutting in or you may cook the engine
SOUND LIKE COOLANT FAN NOT COMING ON.WHEN YOU ARE IN CITY.YOUR ENGINE RADIATOR NOT GETTING MUCH AIR FLOW IN THE CITY.BECAUSE YOU STOP AND GO ALOT.DUE TO A LOT OF STOP LIGHTS.CHECK COOLANT FAN RELAY AND FUSE.IF BOTH GOOD.COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR SENSOR.IF ALL IS GOOD HOT WIRE COOLANT FAN TO SEE IF IT RUNS.IF NO FAN MOTOR BAD.IF YES FAN MOTOR RUNS WIRE CONNECTOR IS OPEN OR DAMAGED.
something is strange here thats for sure ,firstly take thermostat out and put it in a saucepan of water and boil it to see if opens .,check the oil light switch and pull the rubber boot cover back to see if any oil is behind it ??.-You are buying trouble with a car with such a high mileage on it ,never buy anything with more than 50,000 miles or you are just buying someones rubbish
are you sure the cooling fans are working? Is the coolant temp gauge telling the truth? have you lifted the hood and heard the coolant bubbling into the overflow? Or heard the tinging sound of a red hot engine? If he did a liquid test with the dye,and it changed colors it should have changed very fast, Another thing to think about if he was to take the fan belt off,and pull the thermostat housing off,and removed the thermostat,Now pour coolant into the thermostat hole to almost the top,Now start the car and see which side the bubbles come from,left or right,that will be the gasket that is leaking not both.
Check first if the fan is running, you can do this by pulling out the temp sensor at the lower radiator hose. You should see the fan go on. If the mechanics has checked out everything, I suggest to see if there are added load on the engine such as busted bearing on the pulleys for the serpentine belt. Observe the coolant if it is boiling hard when you notice the temp go up. It might be a problem withe the sensor which triggers the ECU to shut the engine.
When an engine is overheating and then the temp drops on the guage, it's usually a sign that the coolant is not touching the temp sensor. There's no coolant in the engine. Putting water in the overflow tank won't solve this. Take the radiator cap off after the engine cools and put coolant in the radiator. you might have to crank the engine and do this several times, as the engine can develop air pockets that won't allow the coolant to travel inside the engine. If you don't see any leaks, and it still uses coolant, you've probably got a blown head gasket. Check for water on the plugs, check cylinder compression. If it slowly uses coolant, try putting a large box of pepper in the radiator or some of that radiator seal copper flakes.
9 times out of 10 on this old of vehicle its the heater core. If your car temp gauge is working and the car is heating up fine and the blower works then it is most likely your heater core. Not sure how hard it is on that car. SOme times it just under the dash takes about 30 mins but some cars you have to pull the dash out. The part alone is cheap. I would try logging onto autozone.com put in your car find the part (heater core) then look at the how to change section of auto zone.