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Your pedal height may be adjustable by a stopper bolt at top of pedal. You would have to check the specification for your car. Most important that the pedal has about a half inch free travel before clutch begins to engage. You need that free play to ensure the release bearing (the throw-out bearing) is not touching the fingers on the pressure plate when not engaged. If it always is touching, it will be rolling around constantly and will go out prematurely. Your new clutch will allow gear engagement sooner as the clutch pedal is released. I mean gears will engage just as pedal is lifting off from floor. You should notice that difference-the old clutch would have taken longer pedal travel from floor before releasing.
It has air bubbles on the piping, fill the deposit with brake solution, and push and pull the clutch pedal with your hand it doesn't matter if it goes straight to the floor if that happens pull it with your hand, repeat that as if you are bleeding it up, then disconnect the piping beneath the car, the air bubbles will be forced out, then reconnect the piping and repeat the procedure, push and pull the clutch pedal like a 100 times, then disconnect the piping and reconnect. The clutch pedal should be able to go back when there is no air on the piping.
If that doesn't work, replace your clutch pump
It is most likely a hydraulic clutch, and it is most likely leaking at the clutch slave cylinder. Check the clutch master cylinder for fluid, it should be a small master cylinder looking thing with a fill cap next to the brake master cylinder and booster unit. If it is empty fill it with the same dot 3 brake fluid that you use for your brake master cylinder, and make sure that you are pouring the fluid into the clutch master cylinder reservoir and not the rubber seal that should be under the fill cap. After filling the clutch master cylinder up with fluid, then try and pump up the clutch pedal. It might take a while to pump up hydraulic pressure, and you might also have to work the pedal a few times by hand at first.
Also, you might have to bleed the clutch at the slave cylinder if it will not build up enough pressure to release the clutch.
check all mechanical parts of clutch pedal make sure there is no catching or draging in its joint lube if possible also check the spring that pulls the clutch pedal back up make sure not damaged or worn out, A different problem may be in your hydrolic clutch system, such as a bad slave cylinder or your system may just need bleeding, if you have a problem with your hydrolics when the clutch goes to the floor and stays you will not be able to disengage your clutch as well until you pull the clucth back up and pump it a few times.
It's a matter of bleeding the clutch system completely. You do need to make sure you don't ,have any leaks at the Clutch Master Cyl. or at the Clutch Slave Cyl or the line running between both, and that you don't have clutch fluid in the drivers compartment just below where the clutch rod comes through the firewall. That would of course mean you have to replace the Clutch Master Cylinder due to internal leakage.
This isn't so unusual, you'll have to pull up on the pedal by hand & pump it a few times to get pressure enough to properly bleed the system, or, you will have to start with bleeding the Clutch Master Cyl. first by loosening the line there & have someone push down the pedal, then before letting up on the pedal, tighten the line to prevent air from being drawn in. Repeat two times to get any air out here.
If your parts and lines are all in good shape then re-fill the resivoir & have someone to pull up on the clutch by hand if needed & then if necessary, use their hand to depress & pull the pedal a few times to try & build some pressure so that you can bleed the Clutch slave cylinder a few times to get all of the air out. After you've finished bleeding the system, the pedal should stay in the up position except when being depressed and you should have consistently even pressure when using the clutch.