Did you use copper-based brake grease on the brake pins and the back of the pads?
Did you clean all the old gunk off the brake pins and after doing so, where they deeply grooved? If so, you must replace them.
Wrong brake pads. Some pad manufacturers list a patricular pad as being OK for a vehicle. They fit OK but the pad characteristics are wrong and they squeal like crazy or wear out in no time or give lousy raking performance etc.
If the pads you removed had anti-squeal shims on the back of them did the new ones? They almost certainly should have. IIRC, they are held to the pads by some double-sided adhesive tape.
If you get squeak-silence-squeak-silence... at low speed (i.e. just before coming to a halt) then the disk(s) is/are distorted. They will have to be replaced. You must not machine the discs on these brakes - there is no thickness available to do that. If you do tthey may well collapse under the heavy braking of an emergency stop with very unfortunate consequences!
As someone said, the disc may be badly worn and/or grooved -check and replace if necessary.
You may have a stone or piece of grit stuck between a pad and a disc. If so & it's worn a groove in the disc,you will need to replace both disc and pad.
Make sure you torqued any brake bolts correctly and that you put thread sealant on them. Failure to do so can lead to them loosening in normal use. The brakes may squeak for a while if this happens but then things can get much worse...
With all fuses & relays in place, I disconnected the wires going to the negative post and...
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With all fuses & relays in place, I disconnected the wires going to the negative post and placed my ammeter between them. I found 180 mA being drawn. As I pulled fuses one by one, I found fuse #15 (audio system, courtesy lights, door open light, trunk light, glove box, remote control central locking, oil level sensor, seat belt reminder, data link connector) once removed dropped the current down to 60 mA (a 120 mA reduction). Placing fuse #15 back in, I found (oddly) that when I opened any one of the four doors, the current dropped to zero. Looking at what schematics I have, I removed the overhead console since it showed some 'door switches'. But nothing changed. I pulled all the relays that I could find, (those adjoining the fuse box under the hood, and those relays under the left dash). Nothing I did would pinpoint the problem. Open door(s) no current, closed door(s) = 180 mA. Any suggestions or advice is most welcomed. Thanks for your time.
My volvo 850 transmition cut out on me. For a while the arrow on the dash was blinking and it would...
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My volvo 850 transmition cut out on me. For a while the arrow on the dash was blinking and it would switch to limp mode. I brought it in to be looked at and they didn't find a problem. Last time it happened the car slipped out of gear and didn't move at all. I had to stop the car and wait a few seconds then start up again. After that, everytime I came to a stop I had to stop the car and restart. What's going on??
Looking for info, diagrams, dissasembly, etc, on a Paris-Rhone alternator model A13N Not sure, but I...
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Looking for info, diagrams, dissasembly, etc, on a Paris-Rhone alternator model A13N Not sure, but I think it's off of a Volvo circa 1965