Question about 1994 Chevrolet Astro

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Brakes hard brake pedal this van has the hydro boost system,i have replaced the master cylinder and booster with no luck. please help

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  • wharris378 Sep 18, 2008

    HOW CAN YOU TEST THE POWER STEERING PUMP?

  • wharris378 Sep 18, 2008

    COULD NOT READ THE END OF YOUR COMMENT,BUT THE PEDAL IS HARD ALL THE TIME.

  • wharris378 Sep 18, 2008

    THE STEERING IS FINE,HOW DO YOU UNSTICK THE CONTROL VALVE?

  • wharris378 Oct 07, 2008

    THANK YOU ,I WILL HAVE TO TRY IT.

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This is a hydra boost system and recieves boost from the power steering pump. If you flow rate is low on the pump chances are the pump is going bad.

Posted on Sep 18, 2008

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  • gurue Sep 18, 2008

    this is where it gets to be a problem. Without a power steering pressure and flow gauge you can't check it. But if you steering feel stiff this could be a tell tale. Is your brake pedal hard even setting

  • gurue Sep 18, 2008

    Is your steering stiff? Most hydro boost systems suppy the brake booster first and then go to the steering sector. If you replaced booster with a reman unit there is a good chance the new booster has a sticking control valve and still may be the problem. This has happened to me before and it is just natural not to blame the new part. I am sorry I can't help more,but this type of problem can be hard to diag.

  • gurue Sep 18, 2008

    The control valve is internal part and is not serviceable. The only thing you may try is to take a small hammer and tap on the booster and see if the valve will free. I'm sorry other than that I don't know.

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I ran into the same difficulty and found myself looking in the same places. With rare exception, if the master cylinder and booster are not leaking, look else ware. Aged front disk calipers caused my difficulty. They can bind due to the daily heat generated from breaking. My wife is either on the gas or the breaks and I'm always battling warped rotors, cooked shoes, and the constant drone "the breaks are funny". A good check is to push the pistons back into the caliper casting. If you feel you're forcing them, they should be replaced. Calipers deteriorate and are not a lifetime item. I got my last set from Advanced Auto for $15 each w/ lifetime guarantee (rebuilt). Two bolts, carefully disconnect the break line and don't over tighten, get a helpful son or good friend with a six-pack to push the petal for bleeding and you should be good to go.

Posted on Oct 07, 2008

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Hi,

Appreciate the "Ask Me" and my compliments, scary driving one of those in our roads.

Might you have to check the Brake Booster. Normally, there would be a vacuum line to the booster from the intake manifold. Common design calls for a PCV type valve at the entrance to the booster. Pls check this. It also operates on the same principle and therefore checks the same, you can blow one way but not the other; would have a sliding ball inside that acts as the valve. In some instances, it could be the diaphragm inside that might have a tear.

Of course, the Proportioning valve system must likewise be checked. I have heard a lot of brake problems with K2500 especially the rear drum.

Incidentally, there was a recall order of some sort. TSB 99-05-24-001A SEP 99 which addressed brake pull/wear, the recall involved replacing the proportioning valve.
  • The Technical Service Bulletin referenced previously discusses the issue surrounding the proportioning valve. Also, there's a corrosion issue which has resulted in the recall of the trucks in certain states.
Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.

Good luck and kind regards. Thank you for using FixYa.

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