I have a Jeep that I bought in the UK suitable for driving on the Left Hand Side of the road i.e the steering wheel is on the right hand side. I now live in France and have put the jeep through their local control technique - their safe to drive test. It passed subject to my changing the headlights to make it suitable for driving in France. I have purchased 2 new headlights here in France but can't see the difference between them and the originals. Is there something else I should do after fitting? or would my original headlights been ok subject to some adjustment. Please help....
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Re: UK Headlights to French Headlights
The headlamps themselves will look identical. If you were to look at the beam pattern of the light, then it would be different. Your original headlights were designed to throw excess light to the passenger side of the road (I.E. away from oncoming cars). Now that driving directions are opposite in France, your old headlights would be throwing the excess light into the oncoming cars, blinding them). The new lights are designed to throw the light away from those oncoming cars.
The adjustment screws/nuts should be located either on the top of the headlamp assembly,
behind the headlamp assembly, or near the frame rail by the radiator
You will have vertical adjustment screws for each independent beam
(separate highs and separate lows, but will be same screw if highs and
lows are the same bulb). You may also have additional horizontal
adjustment screws as well
your car on a level ground 30 feet from a wall and measure the height
from the ground to the bulb and mark on a wall (do this for highs beams
and low beams if the bulbs are separate, if highs and lows are the same
bulb, only do it for the lows)
For Low Beams: If the headlights read VOR, then
aim the brightest part or cutoff part just below the mark on the wall.
If it says VOL or nothing, aim them 2 inches below the mark on the wall.
For High Beams (if separate from low beams): Aim the headlight directly at the line you marked on the wall.
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sounds like it may be bad wheel hub bearing. wen going down road with no traffic steer left then right left right and see if noise gets louder and softer wen weight shifts from side to side. if it does u may need to get new hub bearings
Very good if there is a deer on your left! But not really good for normal driving... Generally you will get a pull if you either have a worn steering component such as a tie rod end, Or have bent something off-roading.. If you have just bought tires, you may have what's called directional steer which can sometimes happen with just the right combination of tires. In that case, just move the front tires to the rear and that will usually help. One other thing to check is this: Jack up the front of the vehicle so both wheels are off the ground and start the car. if the wheels turn to one side by themselves then there is a valving problem in the steering box... that needs to be replaced.
Check up dipped beam headlights fuse inside fuse box. For Audi A4 the fuse box is located on the left side of dashboard behind a plastic cover (for left hand steering wheel vehicle). On inner face of the plastic cover you will find the fuse diagram. If the dipped beam headlights fuse is OK, check up dipped beam headlights bulbs.
Without seeing and hearing the noise in person I can only speculate as to the actual cause of the problem. The issue is more than likely caused by one of the two following failures: 1. A failed CV axle boot on the drivers side nearest the wheel. 2. (less likely) A failing drivers side hub bearing. To me, however, your complaint describes to a "T" a bad CV axle. CV stands for constant velocity. This type of drive axle was designed for front wheel drive applications in order to allow the axles driving the front wheels to not only adapt to uneven road surfaces but also pivot with the steering knuckles to steer the vehicle while maintaining rotational speed. To achieve this CV axles use special joints at either end called trunions. These joints are lubricated with a thick grease which is contained by rubber boots. In your case the boot closest to the driver's front wheel has torn open allowing the grease to be thrown from the joint during driving. This joint, now unlubricated, has dried out and collected debris from the road. Making otherwise silent operation a disturbing load affair, especially when it is put under maximum stress ie a left hand turn.
Everyone always gravitates to the suspension but folks, it's 99% sure that it is the EVO. The EVO is the sensor built into the steering column that senses movement of the steering wheel then controls the power steering pump accordingly. When it goes out (which is all too frequently) you get sloppy and loose steering at lower speeds and it does tighten up a bit on the highway at higher speeds. This is the way it is supposed to work but when it fails it's downright scary trying to keep the truck straight on a narrow two lane road!
Check both front wheels with the steering wheel centered. One or both may appear to be pointing in the wrong direction slightly. Check both sleeves on the tie rod ends to make sure they are tight and not able to turn. (adjustment sleeves are slightly different than on most cars. One sleeve extends from the drivers side across the front and is about 21/2' long the other is shorter and is about 5" to the passenger side of the pitman arm on the steering box. If either moves, turn it 'till the wheels are fairly straight, tighten the bolts that are on the clamp around the slotted tube, and bring it to an alignment shop and have the toe in re-set. A condition such as this is nothing to mess with. loss of steering is extremely dangerous.