Question about 2004 Toyota Camry
Where are the spark plugs located?
The solution is for a 4 cylinder
Find the camshaft cover, located at the top of the engine.
There yfind 4 square rubber objects with wires connected to the coils, pull them up, inside the exposed tubes you find the spark plugs.
You will need a 5/8 spark plug socket on an 8" extension with a ratchet to remove the spark plugs.
If you still get troubles, buy the repair manual here
Toyota Car Repair Manuals: Chilton & Haynes
There you can find detailed instrucions with pictures.
Posted on Sep 18, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 2004 Toyota Camry Brakes
Raise the vehicle up and remove the rims & tires
Remove the brake pads, and then remove the calipers from the caliper retention brackets, do NOT remove the brake hoses from the calipers.
Remove the caliper retaining brackets from the hub assemblies (2 large bolts on backside of the bracket)
Tap the brake rotors off of the hubs, hit them from the back side of the rotor.
No big mysteries here, this is a very easy job.
Posted on Oct 21, 2008
SOURCE: Stalling Toyota Camry 2004
P-0102 and P-0113 are mass air flow and intake air temp codes, the P-0136 is an Oxygen sensor code. Before you do anything, check for debris in the Mass Air Flow Sensor, it's small black box with electrical wiring connector that is screwed into the intake air tube, between the air box and the intake manifold. Undo the screws, remove the sensor, and, with a flashlight, and look down inside it for debeis, or broken wires inside it. If it's dirty, it could throw a P-0136...Comment back on what you find; hope this helps, and thanks for choosing FixYa!
Posted on Oct 24, 2008
SOURCE: Toyota 4 runner spark plugs
Not a big deal. Realize that the plugs from the factory are Iridium and are good for 100K miles. Assemble the following:
6 Denso IKH20 Iridium Plugs pre-set to .044 gap ($10 each) High Temperature anti-seize (crayon type is $3 at NAPA)
3/8 inch drive ratchet
5/8 inch spark plug socket
10 mm socket
12 mm socket
torque wrench (or make real sure you don't over tighten the plugs) new air filter (optional)
Start on the passenger side. Disconnect the air induction/filter assembly by un-snapping the two spring latches on the black air intake box closest to the front of the car. Once these are un-latched, fold the air intake assembly out of the way. Now would also be a good time to replace the air filter if you have not done so lately. With the air intake assembly out of the way, you now have clear access to the top of the valve cover. Along either side on top of the valve cover you will notice three black modules each held in place with one 10mm bolt with a small wiring harness connector attached. These are the coils (one per plug), and the spark plugs are located underneath. Disconnect the wiring harness connector and remove the 10mm bolt. Pull straight up on the coil and it should disconnect from the spark plug. Look down the hole and you can see the top of the spark plug 5 inches down. Using a 5/8 inch spark plug socket with a rubber 'holder' inside the socket to hold the plug, remove each plug. I had to use a 10-inch ratchet extension to provide sufficient clearance. I know it sounds goofy using a standard size socket on a metric car, but it is what it is. I make sure I get each coil back to its original location, but it really does not matter as they are all the same. Since the heads are aluminum and the spark plugs are stainless steel or monel/nickel, you have to be careful not to ruin the threads on the heads. I ONLY remove the plugs when the engine is cold. Apply some high temperature anti-seize only to the threads on the new plugs and install to 18ft-lbs of torque. Slip the coil back in place, attach the connector, install and tighten the bolt and you are done with that plug. Repeat for each plug. Re-install the air intake assembly and snap down the two latches and you are through with that side.
The driver's side is more difficult as there are things in the way. I had to remove one bracket (held in place with 2 12mm bolts) and disconnect a rubber hose underneath that bracket (it just slipped off with little effort - no tools required) in order to provide sufficient room to remove the coils. This is not as bad as it sounds, and I had both removed in under 2 minutes. Now you have access to the coils and plugs and can repeat the process. Go slow, take your time, don't get anti-seize on the plug firing tip, use a torque wrench if you have access to one. Replace the hose and the bracket and you are done.
Total time is 1 hour if you are not mechanically inclined, 30 minutes if you are.
Posted on Jul 20, 2009
In servicing the spark plug . If the owner will be the one to change the spark plug then. the owner should locate the spark plugs . then prepare the equipments that is going to be used to change spark plug .First disconnect the spark plug cable to the spark pug . Then use the equipment to take the spark plug off to the engine. The spark plug should be twisted counter clock wise using the equipment to remove the spark plug.Then replace the spark plug.In returning the spark plug ,using the equipment you have to twist the spark plug clock wise . Then set the distributor shaft turn it according to the proper firing order that will be set to the spark plug if it is 1,3,4,2. Then the distributor shaft mark will be on 1.If 2,3,4,1 then the distributor shaft mark will be on 2. Then connect the spark plug cable , after connecting the owner have to test start the car so that to if it back fires .If it back fires then the owner have to repeat again the setting of the firing order of the spark plug until it will not back fires.If the owner don't have time to do the job in servicing or changing spark plug then the owner have to go to a car mechanic and let them change the spark plug.
Posted on Sep 26, 2009
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