Replaced rear pads with cube tool, did not open any bleeders. did not have any brakes at all after. found out master cylinder was bad and then replaced it. bench bled then installed bleeding all four wheels until nothing but fluid. now have brakes but feels funny and when pedal is pushed hard it remains on the floor until pulled up by hand
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Re: 2004 beetle brake problem
Hello rule of thumb never push pistons back on calipers without master cyl cover off pressure blows seal out on mastercylinder what you need do is from the firthest wheel pass rear bleed first then drivers rear then pass front to drivers side to mastercyl lines rear to front sounds like trapped air in proportioning valve with two people pump pedal up 3-4 hold take cover off master watch brake fluid take foot off brake pedal quick watch for air bubbles or small geiser like movement you need to work the air out reinstall cap repeat again if needed there shouldnt be any ripples when the peddle is let go if rear calipers have built in emergency brakes use emergency brake to wind caliper piston a few times goodluck
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Take wheels off remove calipers compress caliper pistons by opening bleeder screw and using tool to compress and turn piston back to bottom of caliper close bleeder screw install new pads and caliper add brake fluid to master cylinder
Park your car on a level surface. If you have a stick shift car
make sure the car is in gear. Do not set the parking brake. Place
blocks in front of the front tires so the car does not move while you
are working on it.
Open the hood of your car and locate the master cylinder. If
necessary, remove brake fluid until the level in the container is less
than half full. A turkey baster is a good tool for this. Put the brake
fluid in the plastic container and dispose of it the way you dispose of
Raise the rear end of your car with your car jack. Remove the rear tire or wheel assembly.
Remove the parking brake cable from the back of the caliper. Use the pliers to remove the cable clip (restraining clip).
Use the socket wrench to remove the upper mounting bolt from
the caliper. If the upper guide pin moves while you do this, use a
back-up wrench to hold the upper guide pin.
Rotate the caliper downward, pivoting it on the lower caliper bolt. Remove the inner and outer brake pads from the caliper.
Install the new Brake Pads
Turn the caliper piston clockwise to retract it into the caliper housing. Insert the new brake pads into the caliper.
Swing the caliper upward and into place. Apply a thin coat
of thread locking compound to the bolt and use the socket wrench to
tighten the bolt to 271 inch lb. (35 Nm).
Reattach the parking brake cable to the caliper.
Replace the tire wheel assembly. Lower the car to the ground.
Pump the brake pedal a few times to seat the brake pads. Do this before trying to move your car.
Add fluid to the master cylinder container to replace any you removed before you removed the old brake pads.
Season the brake pads by making only gentle stops when you are driving for the first week after you install the new brake pads. Try not to do any hard stopping when you are seasoning the brakes.
You open the bleeder valve
Then you need a tool, to turn in the parking brake ratchet,clockwise
As your turning in the piston,it will also push back into the caliper
After you have pads on,ratchet up P-Brake by hand
Then bleed all 4 wheels
You do not bleed ABS,but you do however have motor running
and a helper to slowly press brake pedal, as you open and close
bleeder approx 10 times,until clear fluid and no air.
Do this every 2 years (bleed)
You will not find an LS tool. Buy the $9.00 square combo cheapy
and file a little off one of the two pin sides, to fit
When you turn the piston, be sure the notch is up,I think,so the pad pin goes over it
Use Raybestos Ceramic Pads on front and back
Backs were Ceramic OEM and fronts work well and no dust.
Sand off all rust everywhere,anti-seize on all caliper mounting stainless
slippers and pad ends.
Both sides of rotors,back of wheels etc.
May have to file off paint from pad ends, to get a nice fit and sliding free
you may have air trapped in the ABS EHCU. Did you use this procedure?
Bleeding the EHCU
Bleeding the EHCU requires the use of the TECH-1 scanner or its equivalent and the appropriate cartridge. Additionally, 3 tools, J-39177 or equivalent, are required. Bleeding cannot be performed without this equipment.
The EHCU must be bled after replacement or if air is trapped within the unit. It must be bled after bleeding the master cylinder and before bleeding the individual wheel circuits.
The Internal Bleed Valves on either side of the unit must be opened 1 / 4 - 1 / 2 turn before bleeding begins. These valves open internal passages within the unit. Actual bleeding is performed at the two bleeders on the front of the EHCU module. The bleeders must not be opened when the system is not pressurized. The ignition switch must be OFF or false trouble codes may be set.
Open the internal bleed valve 1 / 4 - 1 / 2 turn each.
Install one tool J-39177 on the left bleed stem of the EHCU. Install one tool on the right bleed stem and install the third tool on the combination valve.
Inspect the fluid level in the master cylinder, filling if needed.
Slowly depress the brake pedal and hold it down.
Open the left bleeder on the front of the unit. Allow fluid to flow until no air is seen or until the brake pedal bottoms.
Close the left bleeder, then slowly release the pedal. Wait 15 seconds.
Repeat Steps 4, 5 and 6, including the 15 second wait, until no air is seen in the fluid.
Tighten the left internal bleed valve to 5 ft. lbs. (7 Nm).
Repeat Steps 3-7 at the right bleeder on the front of the unit.
When bleeding of the right port is complete, tighten the right internal bleed valve to 5 ft. lbs. (7 Nm).
Remove the 3 special tools.
Check the master cylinder fluid level, refilling as necessary.
Bleed the individual brake circuits at each wheel.
Switch the ignition ON . Use the hand scanner to perform 3 function tests on the system.
Carefully test drive the vehicle at moderate speeds; check for proper pedal feel and brake operation. If any problem is noted in feel or function, repeat the entire bleeding procedure.
I assume you mean that you replaced the front pads and rear shoes. Or did you also replace the disks and drums?? Either way you should be ok unless you also replaced the slave cylinders on the rears.
The fluid flows back up to the Master Cylinder as you squeeze the calipers and the slaves to fit the new parts in. Some people pre-fill the caliper to reduce the amount of air and make bleeding easier.Now .....Grinding better be a wrong choice of words.
Possibly you spilled fluid on the pads while bleeding the lines. This will cause a binding and shuddering when you apply brake pressure. This will also make you think the lines are not bled properly because of the increased pedal pressure you are putting on the wet/lubricated front pads. If so, replace the pads. Don't try washing them with aerosol cleaner cause it takes more time and money than simply changing them.
Special tool is a 1" cube with tabs on each side that fits into indentations on the brake piston and can be purchased for $10-12 @ most discount parts stores. Use 3/8" ratchet with short extension and 'special tool to carefully turn piston onto internal hand brake screw. Take care to not tear dust boot. When piston is fully collapsed, make sure to align piston indentations perpendicular to brake pad as there are bumps on pad that fit into them. Also while screwing in piston either remove about 2/3 of brake fluid in master cylinder and refil afterwords or open the bleeder valve on brake piston assembly. Bleed if necessary.
try this. open the two bleeder screw at the rear calipers. leave it open untill the fluid drips generously. close the bleeder. try the brakes. if it works bleed it the nornal way. note: make sure you dont run out of fluid in the master cylinder
To bleed you brake system, you will need brake fluid, a jar, and a couple feet of small hose that fits tightly on the bleeder screws. You should not need to remove the tires to access the bleeder screws, but you may need to raise the vehicle a bit to access them.
To bleed the system, start with the right rear wheel. Put a couple inches of brake fluid in the jar, attach the hose to the bleeder screw, put the hose in the jar of brake fluid, then open the bleeder screw. Once the bleeder screw is open, pump the brake several times. Next, close the bleeder screw. After you close the bleeder screw, remove the hose and jar, then fill the master cylinder with brake fluid.
Repeat the steps going to the left rear second, right front third, and left front last.
Once you have bled the system your brakes should be tight and working nice.
I hope this information helps you, and I wish you luck on your repair.