The steel oil pipe on my 91 Jetta turbo Diesel that goes from the top of the oilcooler around the engine block to the top of the Turbo has rusted through. VW dealer wants about $ 125 + tx. for the pipe, any cheaper solutions???
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Ford Diesel engine blows off the intake rubber intake hoses, blue in color with 7.0 Liter. If you have a problem with this engine as stated above there is an updated hose for the intake tubes also remove the intake pipe on the turbo side of the turbo remove the 10MM bolt that holds the metal tube on to the block and remove the clamp on the turbo, remove tube. Next look at the turbo shaft inside do you see oil in the turbo? If no then grasp the turbo shaft and try moving it up or down and in and out. Any Movement The turbo needs to be rebuilt before replacing the Turbo hoses. If there is oil in the turbo then it needs to be rebuilt so stop at this time and decide what you want to do with it. The turbo also has a flapper valve inside the turbo that goes bad at about 100,000 this is the boost waste gate and boost flapper valve, it is an internal gate unlike the mechanical ones on most turbo. If you have low power check the boost pressure with your boost gauge if you have less than 12 pounds of boost then it's time to look at the turbo. Of the Turbo I have rebuilt I have increased fuel mileage by 30 percent. If you want the details of how to gain the extra mileage post a comment to me or ask this question and I will get back to you for the procedure.
Is there anyway to remove the section of hose that is blocked and replace it heater hose? I'm thinking if you can replace the section that is blocked them it should allow coolant to pass through all hoses therefore giving you the heat your after!! I've also had goodluck searching u tube for answers and in most cases comes with a detailed video goodluck in your mission for heat!!
That is the engine oil cooler. There is a 'O' ring between it and the oil filter mount. They harden and crack.
Ask your dealer for the large Oil Cooler 'O' Ring.
Remove oil filter. Remove exposed pipe nut holding oil cooler to housing. If nessacary, drain coolant so you can disconnect coolant hoses from cooler or catch coolant as hoses disconnected. Swing oil cooler away and remove old 'O' ring.
Place new 'O' ring with grease on oil cooler it to hold it in place and reassemble. Tighten oil filter pipe nut to around 18 ft lbs .
Refit oil filter. Refit coolant hoses and top of oil and coolant. Run engine to check for leaks and allow to cool. Top of coolant to COLD level if required.
You will need hose clamp pliers and wrench for oil cooler pipe nut. Pliers can be obtained from most parts stores.
diesel engine ,well it doesnt matter i use turbo diesel oil for all the vehicles i service ,and the best oil around as far as iam concerned is the shell rotella great oil this one it was fitted in all ford engines when i worked on the assembly line in dagenham 40 yrs ago .change oil every 6000 miles and a oil filter every third oil change and this vehicle will never wear out
If you have no oil pressure on the dash gauge you need to drop the tin sump under the engine and check the two oil pick up pipes in there . They crack and fall off or the seal goes hard letting in air so no oil pumps. An known fault on the 3.0
The long one is for the engine oil lube ( turbo ) and the short one is for the injection system .
The high pressure pump is only for the injectors.
If you have good oil pressure on the dash gauge then I agree with Guru Ronaldbrains the turbos are poor but ! its 5/30 oil in 3.0 4JX1 engine or you will have starting troubles .
it sounds like your turbo has packed in firstly the oil seal in your turbo has failed thats why ur seeing oil from exhaust & the whistling from turbo is the vanes in turbo breaking up so i would advise not to use car until new turbo is fitted & inter cooler pipes and inter cooler itself are checked & cleaned for swarf from turbo you can check turbo by disconnecting turbo pipe &inspecting turbo vanes (fins) to see if broken up or any damage to chamber.
hi turbos are not the easiest thing to change on any car firstly you can get recondtioned ones for half the price of the dealers one and it has the same warrenty but they are all funny about getting someone who knows what there doing to fit them as the problem with turbos is the heat they generate and need a good oil supply to them so they usually insist on replacing the oil pipes and changing the oil and filter and clearing all the inlet pipes of blockages and flushing the its oil cooler as for the catalystic converter the problem your fiance is going to have is that this is another item that gets that hot when you come to remove them the bolts and sensors are weled together and are very difficult to remove it all depends on how good at taking things apart and putting them back together he is best of luck yates210456
Sounds like it could be a sludge issue which can be caused from using the incorrect oil. It is a very specific synthetic type of oil that VW suggests and when you don't use it the engine can actually 'gunk' up and cause turbo failure. (This problem happened when a non-vw dealer sold me my car with the wrong type of synthetic in it and my turbo seized)
Google: "1.8t specific oil"