Hello Drcool
you answered my question about my AC unit earlier today.
http://www.fixya.com/cars/t1052026-2003_ac_unit_problems
do you have any suggestions as to how i can fix this problem?
i am handy with tools and can do it. but i need a description of what needs to be done to access these nichrome wires and also a description of what they look like etc.
an expansion to my first question, there IS a flap behind the glovebox, that does open and close, it seems to be the recirculation flap that is part of the operation of the fan that i removed and cleaned, it is clean and nothing is wrong with it that i can tell looking around with a stick mirror, the problem seems to be that there might be some sort of drag on the fan OR, there is an extra vent that is blocked for the regular AC operation somewhere further up the tubes or near the compressor.
Do you know of any website that has a diagram of the AC unit of my car?
Mitsubishi Lancer ES 2003
as i stated beforehand, the fan DOES run when set on maximum speed, but stops working when on any other setting. i have removed the fan again and examined the interior of the housing but there are no obstructions in it so i do not know what they problem is. especialy strange is that the actual AC cuts off when the fan starts to run. but the fan stops when the AC light is on and the compressor is running.
i have watched the vent open and close when i click on and off the recirculation button, so i know that works, as to what else there is wrong i do not know.
any further help you can give would be appreaciated.
BrianWaas
Hi brian,
tnx for asking me, im sorry but i can't find a diagram for your car but if i can describe briefly, the resistor block is a plastic material on the front and it is screwed on the blower housing, air is supposed to pass through the wires because these wires are used to drop the voltage in order for the motor to have variable speed.and they glow red hot when currnet is passing . the wires are inside the housing where the blower takes off. you were able to locate the blower and when you bring it down , the reiitor block is just around there.
sometimes this resistor block is in the form of a pysical white block of ceramic. you can not see the wires cause they embedded it in the ceramic.
if you see a white block inside the blower housing, then that is the reisistor block. if it is a block, then it can not be repaired. it must be replaced.
yes, the flap that you cleaned id the recycle flap.
there are no more blockade after the blower. it is already the evaporator and it could be blocked if it is dirty.
hope you find the resistor block.
tnx again 4 using fixya,
drcool
what controls do you have?..do you have those fancy digital controller that indicates what temp do you wish the ac would work and the fan blower speed is indicated by the number of blades appearing on an LCD display?
or just the ordinary rotary switch or sliding switch ( mechanical) with just a push button for recycle and a/c?
drcool
ok..so you are using the rotary switch so you must really have a resistor block. if it is not in the blowr housing then it could be installed in the evaporator housing. look for a 4 terminal socket plugged near the evaporator housing, that could be the resistor block. and it is normally being hold onto by two screws.
the blower gets the air either from the outside or the inside depending on the setting of the recycle flap. and then blows it out to the evaporator coil before coming out on the vents .
the icing up of the suction line is due to the blower not running, the evaporator coil gets too cold and the return line ice up.
the compressor could be affected by the resistor block too. that is why it is not running when the blower is running and vice versa.
i will try to look for a picture of a resistor block tommorow and maybe you can find it.
tnx again,
drcool
check this picture. a sample of a resistor block. this one has 5 or 6 leads because it could be 4 speed or 5 speed block.
http://www.rclambert.com/supra/blower/bl...
hope that would help,
drcool
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Welcome to FIxYa.com
Blower Motor Resistor and Controller Replacement Image Blower Motor Resistor Or Controller/Power Module Remove/Install REMOVAL 1. Disconnect and isolate the batten' negative cable. 2. Depress locking tab and unplug the wire harness connector
from the blower motor resistor or controller (power module). 3. Depress locking tab and unplug the resistor or controller
connector from the blower motor. 4. Remove the 2 screws that secure the blower motor resistor
or controller to the heater-AC housing. 5. Remove the blower motor resistor or controller from the
heater AC housing. INSTALLATION 1. Install the blower motor resistor or controller to the
heater AC housing. The housing is indexed to allow (controller power module)
mounting in only one position. Tighten the mounting screws to 2.2 Nm(20 in.
Lbs.). 2. Plug in the wire harness connector to the blower motor
resistor or controller. 3. Plug in the connector from the blower motor resistor or
controller to the blower motor. 4. Connect the batten' negative cable.
Thank you for using FixYa.com
Regards, Lee Davidian
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i have the center dashboard analog dials, one for temp, one for fan speed and one for blower dierction (defrost, main vents etc.) and under that i have the buttons for recirculation and AC
i have also found out that when i turn on the AC, the line in the engine compartment ices over dramaticaly, after checking i figure the reason is that all the cold has nowhere to go because the vent leading to the inside of the car is blocked possibly. also, there is a smell of death in there so i assume one of the mice that were in there didnt make it. and maybe thats whats blocking it. ofcourse i cant figure out how to find the blockage without something like a fiber optic cable.
and i cannot stick my head into the engine compartment to figure out where the actual intake is infront of the firewall.
where exactly IS the intake for the cold air from the AC unit?
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