Question about 2000 Chevrolet Blazer

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Brake problem in pedal

Recently chabged right front brake hose,now every time i put my foot on the brake pedal,she makes 2-3 noises from the pedal as it goes down.seems lie air in the system,but i had it bled.is the brake booster the problem.she never did this before.sometimes she goes all the way down before she stops.need an answer asap..

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You did'nt say why you changed the rf brake hose, but i'm assuming it was leaking, check to make sure the new one is not leaking and there is no other leaks in the system, this includes the other 3 calipers and hoses, the rear hose in between the rear hard line on the frame to the rear hard line on the rear axle. if there is still air in the right side line then the left side would be doing all the work and may cause your abs to kick in on the left side if it is attempting to lock up. this may be the noises you are hearing. if you still have power brakes after you shut the engine off, (you should be able to pump the pedal 3 or 4 times with the engine off before the pedal becomes hard) then the booster is ok. if it has a swooshing sound inside the car, (hard to describe that sound on a keyboard), then you may have a leak in the seal on the brake pedal side of the booster. brake master cylinder sounds like it is bypassing. if it still goes to the floor after you rebleed then replace the master cylinder. if a brake pedal goes all the way to the floor, it is possible to ruin the cylinder and cause it to bypass, this is caused by rust or corrosion, the seals on the plunger are compromised letting brake fluid leak past. any other questions please let me know. thanks

Posted on Sep 18, 2008

  • paul haggard Sep 18, 2008

    just wanted to add, please do not drive this vehicle until you have this brake problem fixed. this is a dangerous situation and should be taken care of as soon as possible. thanks

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try this ABS bleeding procedure:

WITHOUT TECH 1® OR T-100®

Do not place your foot on the brake pedal through this entire procedure unless specifically instructed to do so.
This method can only be used if the ABS warning lamp is not illuminated and not DTC's are present.
  1. Remove your foot from the brake pedal.
  2. Start the engine and allow it to run for at least 10 seconds while observing the ABS warning lamp.
  3. If the ABS warning lamp turned ON and stayed ON after about 10 seconds, the bleeding procedure must be stopped and a Tech 1® must be used to diagnose the ABS function.
  4. If the ABS warning lamp turned ON for about 3 seconds, then turned OFF and stayed OFF, turn the ignition OFF .
  5. Repeat Steps 1-4 one more time.
  6. The entire brake system should now be bled by following the guide or pressure bleeding procedure.

Manual Bleeding
See Figure 3
  1. Clean the master cylinder fluid reservoir cover and surrounding area, then remove the cover.
  2. Add fluid, if necessary to obtain a proper fluid level, then put the reservoir cover back on.
  3. Prime the ABS hydraulic modulator/master cylinder assembly as follows:
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  4. Once the fluid is seen to flow from both modulator bleeder valves, the ABS modulator/master cylinder assembly is sufficiently full of fluid. However, it may not be completely purged of air. At this point, move to the wheel brakes and bleed them. This ensures that the lowest points in the system are completely free of air and then the assembly can purged of any remaining air.
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Fig. Fig. 3: ABS hydraulic modulator/master cylinder bleeder locations

  1. Remove the fluid reservoir cover. Fill to the correct level, if necessary, then fasten the cover.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  3. Proceed, as outlined in the following steps, to bleed the wheel brakes in the following sequence: right rear, left rear, right front, then left front.
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I have just recently replaced two front brake lines on my 93 ford taurus. yesturday, i was driving home from work and all of a sudden its like i had no brakes. i can put the brake peddle to the floor, and...


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