Recently chabged right front brake hose,now every time i put my foot on the brake pedal,she makes 2-3 noises from the pedal as it goes down.seems lie air in the system,but i had it bled.is the brake booster the problem.she never did this before.sometimes she goes all the way down before she stops.need an answer asap..
You did'nt say why you changed the rf brake hose, but i'm assuming it was leaking, check to make sure the new one is not leaking and there is no other leaks in the system, this includes the other 3 calipers and hoses, the rear hose in between the rear hard line on the frame to the rear hard line on the rear axle. if there is still air in the right side line then the left side would be doing all the work and may cause your abs to kick in on the left side if it is attempting to lock up. this may be the noises you are hearing. if you still have power brakes after you shut the engine off, (you should be able to pump the pedal 3 or 4 times with the engine off before the pedal becomes hard) then the booster is ok. if it has a swooshing sound inside the car, (hard to describe that sound on a keyboard), then you may have a leak in the seal on the brake pedal side of the booster. brake master cylinder sounds like it is bypassing. if it still goes to the floor after you rebleed then replace the master cylinder. if a brake pedal goes all the way to the floor, it is possible to ruin the cylinder and cause it to bypass, this is caused by rust or corrosion, the seals on the plunger are compromised letting brake fluid leak past. any other questions please let me know. thanks
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
You'll need a helper to help push the brake pedal.
Start at the right rear, open the bleeder, have your helper push slowly and steadily down on the brake pedal. Close the bleeder. Have your helper take foot off the brake pedal. Repeat this process until either the fluid is clean/clear or there is no more air coming out of the lines.
Continue this process at the left rear, then the right front, and finish at the left front.
Let me know if you have any questions and I'll do my best to answer them. Thank you for using FixYa.com!
Hello tgiro7: My name is Roger and I will help with your question. The fact the noise goes away when stepping on the brake pedal says the problem most likely is in the brake area. The pads could be worn out even at 20,000 miles.If the noise sounds like it comes from the front remove the wheels and check the front pads. If the pads are bad most likely the rotors are also bad.Same would apply if the noise emits from the rear. When you have the wheels off check to make sure the calipers will slide in and out on the mount pins. Should they be stuck on binding the pads will wear excessively and prematurely fail. The calipers must move freely on the pins. If you drive with your left foot on the brake pedal? The amount of pressure required to apply the brakes and not stop the vehicle is 1 to 2 pounds of pressure. Wont turn on the brake lights but will put pressure on the calipers. This in turn will wear out the brake pads. Another thing to look at would be an out of adjustment brake switch. Reach down and grab hold of the brake pedal. Give a firm tug on the pedal. Should you feel the pedal give and hear a click or two the switch was set to deep and holding the brakes on.
Should you need further help please just ask. Please rate the answer. Thank You for using Fix Ya. Roger
Do not place your foot on the brake pedal through this entire procedure unless specifically instructed to do so.
This method can only be used if the ABS warning lamp is not illuminated and not DTC's are present.
Remove your foot from the brake pedal.
Start the engine and allow it to run for at least 10 seconds while observing the ABS warning lamp.
If the ABS warning lamp turned ON and stayed ON after about 10 seconds, the bleeding procedure must be stopped and a Tech 1® must be used to diagnose the ABS function.
If the ABS warning lamp turned ON for about 3 seconds, then turned OFF and stayed OFF, turn the ignition OFF .
Repeat Steps 1-4 one more time.
The entire brake system should now be bled by following the guide or pressure bleeding procedure.
See Figure 3
Clean the master cylinder fluid reservoir cover and surrounding area, then remove the cover.
Add fluid, if necessary to obtain a proper fluid level, then put the reservoir cover back on.
Prime the ABS hydraulic modulator/master cylinder assembly as follows:
Attach a bleeder hose to the rearward bleeder valve, then submerge the opposite hose end in a clean container partially filled with clean brake fluid.
Slowly open the rearward bleeder valve.
Depress and hold the brake pedal until the fluid begins to flow.
Close the valve, then release the brake pedal.
Repeat Steps 3b-3d until no air bubbles are present.
Relocate the bleeder hose to the forward hydraulic modulator bleeder valve, then repeat Steps 3a-3e.
Once the fluid is seen to flow from both modulator bleeder valves, the ABS modulator/master cylinder assembly is sufficiently full of fluid. However, it may not be completely purged of air. At this point, move to the wheel brakes and bleed them. This ensures that the lowest points in the system are completely free of air and then the assembly can purged of any remaining air.
Remove the fluid reservoir cover. Fill to the correct level, if necessary, then fasten the cover.
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
Proceed, as outlined in the following steps, to bleed the wheel brakes in the following sequence: right rear, left rear, right front, then left front.
Attach a clear plastic bleeder hose to the bleeder valve at the wheel, then submerge the opposite hose end in a clean container partially filled with clean brake fluid.
Open the bleeder valve.
Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal.
Close the valve and slowly release the release the brake pedal.
Wait 5 seconds.
Repeat Steps 7a-7e until the brake pedal feels firm at half travel and no air bubbles are observed in the bleeder hose. To assist in freeing the entrapped air, tap lightly on the caliper or braking plate to dislodge any trapped air bubbles.
Repeat Step 7 for the remaining brakes in the sequence given earlier.
Carefully lower the vehicle.
Remove the reservoir cover, then fill to the correct level with brake fluid and replace the cap.
Bleed the ABS hydraulic modulator/master cylinder assembly as follows:
Attach a clear plastic bleeder hose to the rearward bleeder valve on the modulator, then submerge the opposite hose end in a clean container partially filled with clean brake fluid.
Have an assistant depress the brake pedal with moderate force.
Slowly open the rearward bleeder valve and allow the fluid to flow.
Close the valve, then release the brake pedal.
Wait 5 seconds.
Repeat Steps 11a-11e until no air bubbles are present.
Relocate the bleeder hose to the forward hydraulic modulator bleeder valve, then repeat Steps 11a-11f.
Carefully lower the vehicle, then check the brake fluid and add if necessary. Don't forget to put the reservoir cap back on.
With the ignition turned to the RUN position, apply the brake pedal with moderate force and hold it. Note the pedal travel and feel. If the pedal feels firm and constant and the pedal travel is not excessive, start the engine. With the engine running, recheck the pedal travel. If it's still firm and constant and pedal travel is not excessive, road test the vehicle and make sure the brakes are operating properly.
If the pedal feels soft or has excessive travel either initially or after the engine is started, the following procedure may be used:
With the Tech 1® scan tool, Release then Apply each motor 2-3 times and cycle each solenoid 5-10 times. When finished, be sure to Apply the front and rear motors to ensure the pistons are in the upmost position. DO NOT DRIVE THE VEHICLE.
If a Tech 1® scan tool is not available, remove your foot from the brake pedal, start the engine and allow it run for at least 10 seconds to initialize the ABS. DO NOT DRIVE THE VEHICLE. After 10 seconds, turn the ignition OFF . The initialization procedure most be repeated 5 times to ensure any trapped air has been dislodged.
Repeat the bleeding procedure, starting with Step 1.
Road test the vehicle, and make sure the brakes are operating properly.
You will need to buy a few bottles of brake fluid to accomplish this:Try bleeding all the air out of the brake lines starting from the farthest wheel from the resevoir. This can be done alone but is easier with two people. You will need a 10mm or 3/8"(varies depending on Model) wrench to loosen the bleeder screws on one wheel at a time. The bleeder screw looks like a babies bottle nipple only steel with a hex on the lower portion. They are sometimes tight and awkward to loosen. If you can , pre loosen the bleeders before you begin.(make sure that they can be easily opened and shut, and keep closed until you are at that particular wheel) When you begin pump the pedal about 5 -8 times to build up pressure and hold. Now the person at the bleeder can open up the screw until a steady stream of brake fluid comes out with no air. When the pedal goes to the floor close the bleeder(without lifting foot of brake pedal) and try process again if there is still air in oil. If you lift your foot off the brake pedal when bleeder is open, this will draw air into the brakes causing more air to enter. If you are by yourself simply use a small container with clean fluid in it and put a small hose from the bleeder into the container with fluid in it.( I used a half full brake fluid bottle and a small rubber hose) Make sure that the hose is immersed in the brake fluid. Open the bleeder and push the pedal slowly down and up a few times to expel the air. You dont need to worry about air getting in unless the hose is not in the oil. You can buy a one man bleeder kit from Princess Auto or any other automotive dealer(Canadian Tire)to do it yourself. Hope that this helps you out.
I will assume you have some mechanical ability to explain this process:
Remove cover on master cylinder and make sure the brake fluid is filled to the proper level.
-For a one man job; get a piece of 3/16" X 2' clear plastic hose.
-Starting at the furthest brake cylinder; typically the right rear wheel.
-With the proper wrench, loosen the bleeder valve and place the hose over the opening.
-Fill an empty container (empty brake fluid bottle works great) about 1/4 of the way with brake fluid...put the other end of the hose into the container, ensuring the end of the hose is secure in the bottom of the container.
-Open the bleeder valve, ho around to the driver side and pump the brake pedal (slowly or you'll make a mess under the hood), about three times.
-Refill the master cylinder and repeat until the liquid in the hose is clear.
-Repeat process for the left rear, right front, and then the left front.
Sounds like you still have air in your brake lines. Make sure all your brake lines are tight. Then bleed again. Bleed the trouble side first, meaning right side, then go to front left, back left then back right, make sure that your brake fluid is also full