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A dead short to ground in that circuit , an there are probably more thing's that receive power then just the injectors . Find a power distribution diagram an see what all gets it's B+ voltage from that fuse an isolate the circuits till the fuse doesn't blow anymore . There are videos on you tube on finding shorted circuits .
sounds like you have a over heating issue most cars no a days will kill power and shake like this.the computer is like a back up safety tokeep you from destroying the engine.because when you let it set for about 30 minutes or so you can resume driving normal till the temp gets in the red I assume then it will start shaking and big loss of power.have you cooling system checked out to make sure.hope this helps you out.
Find auto the temperature sensor , disconect the two wires and make a "jumper" between them, use a wire equal or with larger "diameter" (section) as the sensor wires itself. Turn the engine on. If you have already checked fuse and relay and you 100% sure they're ok the fan must start spinning...be carefull with the fan blades. If not, you may disconnect the fan wires and supply energy straight from the battery. Be carefull again some sparks may come out and try not to short circuit the wires that may create another electrical/electronic problem, okay? Hope this can help...vmossmann from Brazil
After a few more hours of digging, I finally had to painfully follow the main supply wire from the central locking fuse and found that the controller is in the drivers door. All that was required was to replace the copper track that I burned out on the circuitboard. Probably it is quite common to have the controller in the drivers door with cars that don't have factory key-less entry! Otherwise I think it would normally be up high where it could get a good reception from the transmitter on the keyring, Like up high in the center of the dashboard