Hi I am fixing a mercedes 190 from 1987.
i had to change the ignition lock barrel. there was no barrel before and i have all the 7 cables outside.
I can not find the right position of each,
there are 2 reds,1 little green, 1 big green 1 yellow, 1 black and 1 violet,
Could someone could help me or give me a link with the right position of the cables????
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The steering lock/ignition assembly is an armored item made of tool steel. To replace the barrel you will need to put the ignition key in position II and you will see a small hole in the silver surround . Inserting a thin pin into this hole pushes the catch aside and allows the key barrel to be extracted.
If there is no tiny hole on the face plate of the barrel you will need Mercedes to install your new barrel as it takes a special workshop tool to unscrew the key face plate.
i would assume that there is a hardened steel sleeve "VERY HARD" that surrounds the barrel the same as the W140 model. the repair shop will have trouble cutting this off , like the novices at diesel motors in perth western australia. and will probably want to charge you around $3,000 AUD to replace the key and barrel. which collapsed in my case. jamming the key in the ignition. not bad for a vehicle that had cost $219,000 AUD , and had covered 220,000 km, when there countless thousands of 40 year old toyotas and holdens running around with the original ignition barrels. anyway , digressing , the switch that sits behind the actual barrel lock will no doubt fail not long after u change the barrel also. because i would say that the junk they manufacture for these over rated piles of trash (still riding on the reputation of their 1970's products, is about the same quality level as cheap rubbish componentry used in the W140 . "google search for W140 wiring harness there s a blog with a list of owners in the US with failed wiring insulation causing the copper wires to short out and in many cases cause engine fires. manufactured by Bosch to MB specification to be biodegradable, what a totally brilliant place to start , crucial electronic components, with severely limited life from the start.! , the ignition switch doesn't need to be cut out of the steel dash frame like in earlier models, and is not particularly hard to remove however the stealer will still try to slug u around a grand and tell u its a HUGE job. a friend of mine had my ignition barrel and switch out in 20 minutes after the switch behind the barrel failed after the dealer installed a new key and barrel and charged me 6 hours or so at $120/ hour.
Could be one of 2 problems: Steering torque lock is stuck, try pulling steering wheel in both directions while trying to turn key. OR The barrel of the ignition key is damaged/worn out. I have changed the barrel on my Merc and it is a real headache. Would recommend a locksmith to do it. If you want to do it yourself,
1) Remove all facia covers starting with the 2 small screws at the hand break release and work your way towards center of car. 2) When lock is visible, you will see a locking pin on the steering lock shaft (this pin is titanium and cannot be drilled out). A slot needs to be cut from the pin to the edge of the steering lock shaft. 3) Remove gear lock cable from switch. 4) Remove lock from steering column (brute force is needed!) 5) With heated screw driver (small Phillips) push holes through square profiles (3x) at the back of the switch, wiring side, and remove screws to expose wiring switch; N.B. align key-way before removing switch box, otherwise you will need an auto electrician to re-wire. 6) Take metal part of switch to a locksmith to locate circlips that secure the barrel in the switch. Slots have to be cut into the black surround which is titanium and cannot be drilled. (This part of the job you cannot do yourself without specialist tools.) Remove barrel. 7) Purchase new barrel from MB Dealer with new key, and repeat the above procedure in reverse. 8) As I said - take it to a locksmith!
SOUND LIKE PROBLEM THE KEY WORN OR LOCK CYLINDER COULD BE BROKEN .I WOULD CODE SCAN FOR FAULTY IMMOBILIZER MODULE OR KEY SWITCH COIL OR TRANSPONDER KEY.THE WAY MERCEDES BENZ GOT IT SET UP.IF IGNITION KEY AND LOCK CYLINDER ALSO IMMOBOLIZER MODULE HAS TO BE REPLACED THEY HAVE TO REPLACE AND REPROGRAM NOT A HOME FIX. THEY HAVE TO USE DIAGNOSTIC EQUIPMENT TO REPROGRAM KEY SWITCH AND IMMOBILIZER.
it could be a jammed barrel and key within the lgn lock. have you tried "rocking" the steering wheel gently, and at the same time try and turn the ign key?
Visit a lock smith or somewhere like an Ace Hardware store and get a small plastic squeezie bottle of powdered graphite. With a thin flatblade screwdrive or piece of wire, or something similar. Ease the ign key slot cover to one side and direct a few squirts of the powdered graphite into the ignition key switch. Next insert the ign key and GENTLY rotate the key back and forth, as if trying to operate and switch off the ignition. This will give the graphite a chance to penetrate the lock mechanism.
After approx 5mins, try and turn the key as if to start the car. If the barrel refuses to turn as before, then you will need to open up the ign lock and check the base of the barrel .
Do NOT use oil of any form in the lock. Oil attracts dirt like a magnet and will foul the ign lock.
ignition switches are a known issue with this era mercedes. Not too difficult to change the ignition switch. Google is good source for pics, videos and instructions on this. Be aware that the switch is about $400 from the dealer. You could get one without matching key for alot cheaper if you dont care about that. Also, you can get one without the key lock for much cheaper if you are able to remove the key lock from your existing switch.
it is better to buy a new ignition barrel.it takes a special socket to get the screws out, once the screws are out they do not need to be replaced.buy new barrel,disconnect negative battery cable,disconnect wires from barrel assembly, remove barrel from colum. first take vin# to dealership parts department to get correct barrel assembly, the keys with new assembly will fit doors and trunk
hi friend, to get your tumbler out, force your front keyhole(the stainless part) to position 2. insert 2mm bicycle spokes all the way through, this will disenade the lock of your ignition cap( the black cover) pull hard the cap and if you may use flat screw driver to help the cap come-off the ignition housing. your tumbler will come-off with your ignition cap.