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2.9 to 3.9 bar at 3000 rpm is fairly general for the Nissan range including turbo diesel, though the pressure isn't listed for the td27 engine. I doubt it would be more or less than the others.
I notice one Nissan commercial vehicle engine where 3.0 bar at 2000 rpm is specified.
The oil pressure test should be carried out at normal operating temperature.
Sounds like you could have an aux air regulator valve, that is not
working when it will not work; there is no fast idle cold. Should be around 1500 rpm cold, the car will stall out and pop through the intake when bad. You have a digital volt meter to do some testing with to make sure the mass air flow is working correctly. Also, check the plugs for how they're burning, check the air filter for good flow, do a compression test and judge from there. Intake backfire is usually caused by running lean or improper timing.
For the 79 model zx, ignition timing was 10 degrees BTDC @ 700rpm For 80 and up zx, non turbo - 8 degrees BTDC +- 2 degrees @ 700rpm turbo - 20 degrees BTDC +- 3 degrees @ 700 rpm
Also done with distributor vacuum advance hose removed and plugged. NOTE: * BTDC = Before Top Dead Center * + - = Plus or minus
Hope thos helps; keep us updated.
Let me tell you that I'm also working on that. :-)..
A nissan ga13ds, since it is carbureted, then it is limited on the amount of modifications that are of good value for money, since some of the top end modifications may cost you the price of a brand new nissan sentra + modifications.
Here are some things I did and are planning:
-Replace the stock fuel filter assembly to a high performance one. (ex. to a High flow air filter, cold air intake, short ram intake, etc.)
-switch to an electrical fuel pump.
-upgrade exhaust system. (performance headers, high flow catalytic converter, larger exhaust pipes, racing mufflers.
-upgrade to a better radiator (aluminum) + stronger and better fans. (a cooler engine runs a bit faster)
-Install an oil cooler again for the same reason of better cooling.
-(just my idea) Buy a performance carburetor. (this may be too costly because you might have have an intake manifold custom built)
-Replace engine internals to race internals for better performance under High RPM.
-Find or custom build racing camshafts to replace your stock. (this will result to better performance at high RPM levels but will not be efficient running the car in a lower RPM range).
You can also improve the performance of the car itself by doing the following:
-carbon fiber/fiberglass/aluminum hood and trunk.
-and any other stuff not necessary to you can be removed to save more weight.
Remember, what is heard as turbocharger noise may not be caused by a noisy
turbocharger. Before replacing a turbocharger perform the following diagnosis.
A. If a loud whine or whistle is heard during acceleration
and increases or decreases with rpm and load. This condition is most often
the result of a loose clamp/hose at the turbocharger compressor outlet, charge
air cooler inlet, outlet or at the intake manifold.
1. With the engine running at idle and the transmission
in Park or Neutral with the parking brake set, feel for boost air escaping
at each connection between the turbocharger compressor outlet and intake
manifold. For limited access areas, spray soapy water on those connectors
and look for bubbles.
2. Check the exhaust manifold and exhaust system for
Well, the 'T' in your model number is the answer; Turbo.
Non-turbo engines produce vacuum nearly all the way through their operating range since the engine functions as an air pump on the intake cycle to obtain the oxygen required for combustion.
The turbo, which is probably kicking in at around that 1800 revs, produces an overpressure so the engine can accommodate more fuel, be it diesel or gasoline.
Your engine and the turbocompressor, are doing exactly what they were designed for and your system (which I have personally used) not only doesn't do anything useful, is also causing a loss of your overpressure.
If you have the turbo charged version, this issue refers to the "turbo dead zone" between 3500-4000 RPM. This refers to the no acceleration between these two RPMs and is caused by the time difference between the time the second turbo kicks in after the first turbo has activated. If you are referring to acceleration loss/delay below 3500 RPM, the issue is "turbo lag" which pertains to the delay in time between the stepping on the gas pedal and the 1st turbo activating.
In some other instances including non-turbo versions, the problem may be due to air leak in the intake manifold and the air cleaner. In the turbo versions, it would include the in/out junction of the blower including the clamps.
Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.