Question about 2003 Chevrolet Malibu

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Over heating replaced intake gask. t-stat.flushed rad. replaced cooling temp sensor ,no coolent in oil ,no white smoke from exshust.but it still over heats

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  • pdknoblach77 Sep 17, 2008

    replaced water pump drove two weeks no problem and now again over heating



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There are 2 bleader valves on your vehicles cooling system, Each are near the fron valve cover, One on the left and one on the right side.
They both are 7mm nuts that you do NOT want to fully remove. you only have to loosen enough til you see antifreeze sneak out of it.
With the car running and at normal temp open the valve on the right first. when you notice a small stream without bubbles tighten it back up (DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN, they break easily)
after that one is tight, do the same to the one on the left.
Hope this solves you frustrations.
Please rate.

Posted on Sep 17, 2008

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Water pump or air pocket. Try bleeding the system first though.

Posted on Sep 17, 2008

  • Steven Brock Sep 17, 2008

    And the coolant level is still good? If so, I'ld have to see to determin. Actually, try bleeding the system agian. IF that solves your problem for a short time, there may be a problem with your head gaskets. yes I know you just did's a suggestion. I've seem it happen, improper instalation, warped heads, hair line crack in block, etc...



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My 92 Saab 900 blows cold air constantly and the temp gauge stays on low. I replaced the thermostat but still no change. When the heat switch is off for a period of time while driving I can turn the switch...

Unless you have symptoms of over-heating, I rather doubt that your water pump is a problem. I recall that my water pump had a metal impeller (1992 C900); I haven't heard of a plastic impeller on a Saab pump before. (Most pump failures are the bearing seal, and the pump leaks coolant) If your temp gauge is slightly low (and was OK before) I'd rule out water pump issues.

You might have one or more of the following issues:
  1. did you use a Saab thermostat? The Saab stat has three stages (no flow to rad - cold; flow to rad and heater core - normal operation; and no flow to heater core, full flow to rad - overheating) that most after market stats don't.
  2. did you use a low temp stat? this opens at about 82 deg (rather than 89 deg), and will run cooler during the winter, hence you gauge will show lower than the mid point. The big benefit is that your engine won't overheat during the summer (a very good thing!) with the low temp stat.
  3. has your rad and heater core been flushed recently? If the heater core is obstructed flow will be reduced and the heater will run cool. Feel the rad and heater hoses when your engine is warm; if heater hose is much cooler than rad hose with heater temp set to max, then core flow is likely restricted, or valve is not moving much from the shut position.
  4. is you vacuum tank properly connected and are there no leaks in the vacuum piping? The tank is in the driver side rear wheel well below the trunk deck on a convertible, and in the passenger side front fender area on the other cars. It's a white bottle with one or two hoses connected to it. If not properly on, your vacuum operated heater flaps won't move. Does the air distribution knob make sucking or hissing noises when you set it to different positions? If not, check the tank connections, look for vacuum line leaks, then suspect the vacuum valve behind the distribution knob.
  5. Lastly, the shaft connecting the temp control knob to the valve behind it may not be properly in place. This can be inspected, and adjusted if necessary, from the speaker/vent cutout on top of the dash. Make sure you re-connect the black flex hose to the air vent tube, or you'll get no defrosting afterwards!
  6. remember, the centre vents always blow cold air; a brilliant idea from Saab so the driver (and passenger) can get fresh air in the face and stay awake while the rest of the driver, passenger and car is toasty!
  7. see for flushing and stat replacement info

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how brown and gunky are we talking about?if it like slime and think oily consistency, i think you might have a leaking intake manifold gask,,which is common for that engine,,and it causing the oil to mix with the coolant,,,,i dont know how bad it is , i would have to see it,but if it is like m ilkshake thickness,Dont drive it,,i would take it to the dealer,,,

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