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Re: timing cover seal
You have to remove the belt, the power steering pump i think and depending on build date may have to remove the motor mount thats attached to the belt side of the engine. Also need to remove the harmonic balancer. Thats the big pully on the bottom of the engine. Gotta be care full to cause under that is a sensor called the crank sensor. They are very fragile and expensive. If you hit it while taking the balancer off or putting it back on the car will not run right. I would reccomend against doing it yourself as its a pretty serious job to do without special training.
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A leaking front seal will allow oil to get into the area where the timing belt is located. This will cause oil to get on the belt and can cause damage. Since the timing cover must be removed to access the front seal, it is recommended to replace the belt while you are in there. Also, the water pump is driven off the timing belt. Replacement of the water pump is always recommended when replacing the timing belt for two reasons. First, it is easily replaced at this time and it is good preventive maintenance. Secondly, the water pump bearing is under tension from the timing belt and develops a wear pattern. Replacement of the belt without replacing the pump will cause the new belt to wear the bearing in a different pattern, often causing leaking in a very short time after the replacement. This would then result in having to repeat all the labor again to replace the pump. It is easy to see that for $400.00 labor, you don't want to do that again in only 2-3 months. as far as the VTEC valve is concerned, I don't see a relationship to the oil leak. It could just be something else the mechanic found during the inspection. I can find nothing in the remove/replace procedures that requires replacement of the oil pan gasket. Again, maybe something additional that is needed from visual inspection, but not needed for the front seal.
lined up all the timing marks before you do anything. get a new timing belt as the old one is contaminated with oil and will fail very soon. When you pull the belt off it will be of utmost importance that you do not rotate the cam shaft at all or you will bend valves. so use something to lock the cam gear while you undo and nuts on the shaft or while removing the gear
The valve cover gaskets are prone to leaks and bad ones at that. Cleans the entire engine and rive it to confirm the source of the leaks or leaks.. Remember the oil runs down hill and to the rear of the engine and gets all over from leaking valve cover gaskets.
Provided that you are able to access it, then yes, there's no reason at all why you shouldn't be able to manage it quite simply. As you're probably aware, you need to be careful as you remove the old seal to make sure you don't damage the casing, and similarly when you replace the new one! Good luck!
For our I6 engine....The MAP sensor is located on drivers side right next to the firewall very top, easy to get to. It does have a seal, as you'll notice when you pull it out, very hard to leak air though. It CAN be clean with a MAP sensor spray cleaner, usually doesn't work though if the sensor is going bad. Using the compressor to clean your air filter only works so many times. I'd replace that. On a side note, our engines love AC Delco 41-103 spark plugs, others won't run quite as well.
I have a 2000 Passat V6. They told me that same thing. To replace the gaskets is easy. You just remove the covers and the air filter box and unscrew the 6 bolts holding the valve cover on it and there you go. You want to clean around the gasket service and add a little bit of sealant to the edges. Replace the old gaskets and put everything back together, be careful not to overtighten the bolts, can flatten out the gasket and cause oil leak again. On the right side of the engine, you have to remove the coolant box to get to it. Same procedure....
yes, its possible. and no im not licensed, but have done it myself. here's some pointers. do you have the time ? and tools ? and another vehicle to drive when you realise you should have just paid the 800 bucks. your gonna have to raise the vehicle enuff to take the transmission out of the way, and then refill the fluids you loose. plus cleanup the mess you make. autozone sells manuals that cover a few models between certain years, and it has step by step instructions to show you whats required.......spend the 19 dollars and read it. if you have what is required, i say go for it. but if you do something wrong and it leaks, you have to do it all over again. if a shop does it n it leaks, they have to repair it for free.
Your info is confusing. The rear cam seal is not inside the timing belt cover, and the crank seal is at the bottom of the engine, while the cam seal is at the top.
Is there oil at the top, around the cam seal? Or just at the bottom? It's common for the oil pump seal to leak. If you get the oil pump reseal kit, it contains the oil pump seal and gasket, as well as the crankshaft seal. Make sure you seal the oil pump bolts, Volvo has special copper washers for this purpose.
Just try to locate the oil leak before replacing any more parts. Sometimes it can be something simple like the oil cap seal or the oil trap housing.