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Electrical: Headlights, Dash Lights Flicker; All Gauges to Zero

Exterior and interior lights have begun to flicker periodically, dimming and brightening, and in one episode the entire dash (all gauges) went to zeros and the lights went out completely, albeit for a brief second. This is not good!

Charging system checks out o.k. Battery is new as of 6 weeks ago (due to the same issue others have had with the battery suddenly dying). Anyone else experiencing similar issues?

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  • Anonymous Dec 15, 2008

    My car does the same thing. It corrects itself but usually starts again after a hard rain. Sometimes the check engine light comes on but goes off when I turn off the car and then restart it. My brotherinlaw has the same problem with his 500

  • Anonymous May 22, 2009

    I have had the same problem and I bang the dash or restart the car. but it has worsened.


6 Suggested Answers

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 122 Answers

SOURCE: Ford 500 - 2005 - The entire dash (all gauges) went to zeros

there is a instrument fuse in the fuse box....

Posted on Jan 30, 2009

  • 954 Answers

SOURCE: 2004 Dodge Neon SXT gauges out

Don't overlook a loose connection in the wiring harness. Since the entire dashboard goes out, the plug on the harness may not be all the way in to make a good connection. I don't think that everything would go through 1 fuse. Some of the Dodge's used to have a master thermal fuse. This would kill power to almost everything when over amp'ed or ever heated. Good Luck

Posted on Feb 16, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: check gauges light comes on

The PCM has the voltage regulator inside it that controls the charge from the alternator to the battery, unlike older vehicles that have the voltage regulator directly on the alternator. Also there is a battery temperature sensor under the battery that the PCM uses to decide how much to send the battery. Possibilities; bad alternator, bad PCM, bad battery temp sensor, bad battery, and bad connections. Battery tests are easy check when fully charged should get around 12.5v then turn on headlights for 2 minutes and check again should still be around 12v. To test charging system start engine and test at bettery terminals should get 13-15v if not then something wrong with charging system take alternator to advance auto and they will test it for free if its good you are down to connections, PCM and battery temp sensor. test battery temp sensor at 75 to 80 degrees fahrenheit should get 9000-12000 ohms resistance (9k-12K ohms) if thats good check ground connections on vehicle body , connections on alternator, and plugs into pcm as well as the two above it (depending on model and year). If all that is good your PCM is bad get one on the internet preprogrammed for your vin number for $250 if you get one at the parts store it is $250 and then you have to get it programmed about another $80. You can also test the alternator your self by disconnecting the 3 tiny nuts and removing the connection from the field terminals (plastic piece with two terminals) and checking again at battery for 13-15v ( stay away from pulleys and belt,no loose clothing or long hair if you value your health). The PCM shorts the field connectors to regulate the voltage so removing that connector eliminates the PCM , battery temp sensor and the wire to and from them.

Posted on Mar 07, 2009

  • 150 Answers

SOURCE: Speedometer Dies Intermittently After Battery Died & Recharged

sounds like a spike to the cluster caused this so i would suspect a faulty cluster assy

Posted on Apr 22, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Tach and speedometer gauges intermittently stay at zero

Need to replace the bearing on the passenger side front end assembly. Was told that I needed to have it pressed in by a machine. Can I do this myself with wood and a rubber mallet?

Posted on May 18, 2011

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