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I have a 1991 toyota 4runner sr5 3.0v6 the front brake keep locking up and wont back off i have change the calibers, pads,master cylinder. and they still lock up what could it be?
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Did you also change the brake pads? Add fluid to top of reservoir?
Was the brake pedal low before you changed the calipers or is this something that developed after you worked on the car? If it was there before the caliper change then it has nada to do with the work you did.
You may not have done anything wrong. You won't have any pressure the first couple of times that you press the brake pedal. Try pumping the brakes a few times. When you change the pads you have to open the caliper all the way up to get the caliper back on. When you press the brake the pads won't go all the way to the caliper on the first couple of times you press the brake. But once you pump the pedal, it should build up pressure. If not you will have to bleed the brakes.
Raise and secure on stands after breaking loose the lug nuts and parking brake on for front pads.. Remove wheels and spread old pads back to push cylinders back in their bores on calibers to allow for thickness of new pads. Remove the 2 sliding claiber retaining bolts and rotate caliber out of mount and secure with wire, boungie cord, or rope to take weight of caliber brake hose. Remove old pads, install new, and reassemble in reverse order. Lugs on alloy wheel should be torgued to 95 foot lbs. Block front wheels, release parking brake,and do the back ones the same way. After completing, pump brake pedal slowly several times to seat new pads. If you move the MPV without pumping first, you will have no brakes to stop. If brake fluid level is high in master cylinder, you will need to take some out first to make room for returning fluid from caliber pistons being returned to their bores prior to any brake work. Rotors should be replaced or turned if scored or warped to have better clapping of pads to rotor surface.
You can sometime just pull it off but sometimes you will need to take a screwdriver and push the brake pad back on the caliber piston side. This will force the piston back and allow you to remove the caliber. After you remove it you will need to compress the caliber piston fully back in order to allow room the install the new pads and get them back on the rotor. Sometimes you can fully compress it while the caliber is still installed. On some vehicles like Honda you need a special tool in order to compress the caliber. Most auto parts stores will lend you the tool if you buy the pads from them. Be sure and loosen the master cylinder fill cap to allow the brake fluid to expand in the master cylinder. Clean everything off with spray brake cleaner before installing the new pads and clean the new pads throughly. Be sure and install pads in pairs. Do both front wheels or both back wheels not just one.
check that calipers do not have air in them bleed all brakes check caliper operation to see if they are not siezing check master cylinder (remove bolts from firewall holding master cylinder and pull forward to see if there is any brake fluid behind, if there is mater cylinder is bypassing and has failed replace master clinder)
go to the rear of the vehicle and look just above the rear end, there is a load sensing porpotioning valve up there, there is a rod that connects the rod to the top of the rear end, if you have raised or lowered the vehicle than that rod needs to be adjusted,
the valve simply diverts fluid to and from the rear brakes depending on rear vehicle ride height, this is for proper stopping ability when the vehicle is loaded down or when it nose dives from a hard stop.
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