I have just bought a new set of brake pads as passenger side are worn completely. I took that wheel off thinking I knew what I was doing but I am unsure what to do next.
I have done this job before on previous cars that I owned but with the help of a HAYNES MANUAL which apparently are not available for the Santa Fe.....
Any help would be greatly appreciated... Thank you.
Sorry I don't know how I missed it (rear)
wash the brake assembly
depress the piston using a C-clamp
Remove the upper caliper mounting bolt
Pivot the caliper down for access to the brake pads
Remove the inner brake pad and the outer brake pad
Remove the upper and lower pad support plates; make sure they are a tight fit and aren't worn. If necessary replace them
Install the brake pads in the caliper mounting bracket
pull out the sliding pins, cleanthem, then apply a coat of high-temperature grease to the pins and install them.
Replace any boots that are worn or damaged
Swing the caliper back into place, install the bolt and tighten
Caliper mounting bolt torque is 16 to 24 ft-lb
rear caliper mounting bracket bolt is 37 to 44 ft-lb
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You will need a special tool for the back brakes,Autozone will loan it to you for 60 bucks,you will get it back when you return,I used it.I replaced brake pads front and back and both back rotors.The driver side rear had metal on metal,all disc brakes,brake pads on that rear side were completely worn down to metal,the driver side was like new,kept wondering why,replaced both rear rotors,put back together,then then I noticed where brake line hose went into brake caliber was leaking,so that caused the side with new like brake pads not to be gripping disc putting all brake pressure of that one side,so the copper fitting their was bad,put new one on and leak stopped.
There are a number of issues that can cause overheating disc brakes. Disc brakes, when released, separate from the disc by the action of the rotor moving between them (since no rotor is perfectly true, there is a small about of wobble and it pushes the pads away from the rotor surface). Things that can cause this to go wrong are:
Caliper pistons that have rust rings that cause sticking. This most often will happen right after or shortly after replacing old, work out pads with new ones. Because the caliper piston was extended out farther with the worn pads, its surface may get rusty. This rust can cause sticking when the piston is pushed back into the bore with the new, thicker pads.
Caliper slide bolts will rust and get sticky, not allowing the caliper to release properly and re-center itself on the rotor. What you often see here is that one pad (inner or outer) is totally worn out and the other seems normal.
Rusty brake lines/caliper internals can cause restrictions in the flow of brake fluid and hold pressure after the brake pedal is released.
It is highly recommended that whenever you change your brake pads, you replace the caliper slide bolts use a new brake hardware kit when reinstalling. The additional cost is almost always saved in longer brake pad life, and fewer complications.
Have the rear brakes inspected. These are real easy to change if they need to be. You need to look under the car just outside the differential. This is an inboard brake system so the wheels don't need to be removed.
your inside pad wore out first do to a bad caliper or frozen slide or brake hose.remove brake hose off the caliper and see if you can turn the wheel.if you can replace hose and bleed caliper.if wheel still doesn't move buy a loaded caliper,this will come also with new slides!and then bleed
The two different styles/designs may be part of your ware problem, they may not be made of the same material and maybe warring fastest but I fear that you could have a caliper hanging up. I would go head and install the new bushings in that caliper, so you know they are good and not sticking, with the rest of the brakes all put back together. Press your brake pedal down hard with the rear wheels jack up on stands. Place the shifter in neutral see if you can turn both back wheels fairly easily, the left rear maybe sticking or hanging up. If you don’t find anything, try driving it till you feel it pulling again. Come back and jack it back up, check it again it may have to get hot to act up.If it is hanging up it probable would will not be hard to fine the wheel that is hanging up will be hard to turn. You will feel the drag on it and you may hear it on the rotor. When you release the brake pedal the pads should return far enough to create a little space between the pad and the rotors letting it turn freely.
that sounds like the pressure regulator of your brakes is broken. The pressure does not release from the left side.
Unless it is the calliper, but i think you already checked that out. Pressure regulator is the main cause for problems like this.
It regulates pressure between back and front side