after reading more on your site i just checked about recalls and there is a wire corrosion connection problem .the seep was coming from air vents no fan thanks.. after reading more on your site i just checked about recalls and there is a wire corrosion connection problem .the seep was coming from air vents no fan thanks..
There is a recall for corroded connections on wiring on climate controls the service man at mitsubishi dealership said i am taking next day off to be repaired
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i would think the vent direction control isn't moving the heater box vent , stuck in the open position so only hot air from the engine ,strip out the control panel a check that the direction control cable is connected both ends ,
You might have a faulty water valve. The hot air in the car is supplied by the engine cooling system. As the engine works, it heats up and water is circulated through the system and kept at a cooling level by the radiator. However, this water is still hot, and by turning on the heat in the car, a valve is opened that allows the hot water to circulate through the heater core inside the car.
This core is in fact just a mini radiator, and air from the blower fan inside the car blows air through this mini radiator, thus supplying hot air in the car.
If you don't want hot air in the car, the heater control operates a valve that shuts off the hot water from the engine. If this valve is faulty, it will allow hot water to circulate through the system. Another possibility is that the cable operating the water valve might be maladjusted or the cable or the lever operating the cable is broken or faulty. It often happens that the outer part of the cables slip and the controls operate so-so but never well.
If the cables to the dashboard controls are not adjusted properly or have started slipping, it could also cause the fresh air vent to not close properly, and this will cause a flow of air even when the controls and the fan are turned to the off position.
You can remove the control panel from the dash and check the cables and controls, but it is a finicky job. Maybe you want to take the car to a mechanic?
May be in the radio installation. I hate pointing fingers at the last guy who worked on stuff, but they could have hit a blend door.
When car is warmed up, turn heat on vent and like 3/4 power for fan. Turn temp knob from hot to cold. You are looking for a temperature change. Now, turn on a/c to vent. Wait for it to blow cold. Turn temp knob to hot. Looking for air to be warmer that it was. POST RESULTS
Make sure coolant (Water Is full) The system is clog. Or Heater valve is not open when you slide the control knob to hot or cold. -Check the heater valve by moving the control knob to hot and cold. The valve turns or not. If it turns then the system is clog. If not turn at all then the valve is not function. (the cable might be slip off/Hook or connect it back to the valve) *If it turn then the system is clog.>>>Need to flush. -Disconnect the heater hoses from engine (Both hoses) and flush it with garden water hose from both direction for couple minute. Reconnect, fill or add more water to radiator to full then run. You should be good to go.
Sounds like your cooling fans on the radiator are not working. The fans are activated by a thermol switch on the engine or radiator reading the coolant temperature and an A/C switch. When the coolant is too hot the fans should activate cooling the system down. And, when the A/C is on the fans should also activate in order to cool the condensate so the A/C would work.
When you are driving, the movement of the vehicle throught he air is providing enough air flow to keep things cool and functional.
I would check the radiator fan fuse or fuses first. If those are OK I would try to run the fans with 12 volts and a ground that I supply just to see if the fan motor(s) actually run when powered. If the fan don't run when powered then the fans are bad and will need to be replaced. If the fans do run when you power them manually, then something is not allowing the power to activate, like a relay, control unit, or wiring.
It will take a little diagnostics, but it is not too difficult to chase it down.
The most common cause of this in the Ranger and the Explorer is that a part called the air temeperature control blend door acuator or the blend door shaft that the electric actuator moves has broken, this door is what shuttles between the heater core and the AC core and provides either heated or cooled air, or a blend of the two hot and cold air streams.
You need to repair the heater core with a soldering gun.
If you do not have heat, or only have heat, IMHO it is most likey the AC/heater control unit. This is the part which has the AC/heat control buttons and knobs.
Easy Diagnosis: The easiest way to verify this is to turn on the radio, press and hold the power on/off button and press and hold the scan-up button for a second (full second). The word "A/C TEMP" should appear on the left of the display and a number from 0 to 16 on the right. I suspect yours will have the number 0 (or 16 if heating only problem) displayed no matter where you turn the temperature control knob. If this is the case you could turn the temp. knob to full heat and see if it goes to 16 after pushing down or to the right on the knob. In a working system, the number moves evenly in increments of 1, from 0 to 16 as you turn the temperature knob.
Easy Fix: I was able to take mine out and solder 3 loose connections to fix it.
The beginning steps are the same as for any radio removal procedure and check for loose connections.
Sounds like a possible air lock. Trying running the vehicle without the rad cap until the rad fans turn on allowing the cooling system to burp out any air. Good luck.
after reading more on your site i just checked about recalls and there is a wire corrosion connection problem .the seep was coming from air vents no fan thanks..
ok..thank you for using fixya,
drcool
seep out where?..please describe the problem in detail so that we can help you better.
tnx
drcool
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