Question about 2003 Toyota Corolla

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Automatic - overheating blowing coolant out of rad cap and expansion tank. Fan working OK. No oil in water, although quite rusty coloured. Oil level OK and no increase or decrease on dipstick. All clear under oil filler cap. Any ideas?

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  • mmcphie Nov 30, 2008

    I have the same problem with my 1993 Ccamry V6 - flushed and replaced thermastat, worked for couple weeks and then blew again, Coolant in front filler (radiator) has fluid, filler on engine empty and hot.? Now what?

  • gaazhagens Dec 01, 2008

    overheating problems in 1997 Toyota Corolla.

  • Anonymous Dec 23, 2008

    my car overheated and everything seemed to be working fine.

  • leegaines81 Dec 30, 2008

    I replaced radiator drove car seemed ok but after sitting with car still running coolant began to boil in coolant tank and blow out temperature gage went to hot

  • jaime_64luna Jan 14, 2009

    I have the same problem...I will refill the radiator and tank and then run the car over a long distance...usually about an hour drive...the car is fine while im on the freeway...but after i get into the city all the coolent begins to boil and then is all blown out through the res. tank...no leeks, brand new radiator, and therm, fans working fine???
    if anyone has any ideas that i havent tried yet that would be awesome...




  • samdan95 Mar 07, 2009

    I have the same problem. i replaced thermostat, radiator, and waterpump. I still have overheating problems. on my 94 corolla.does anyone out there the same problem and then got it repaired and what was the problem? i think it is blown head gasket. wut do you guys think?

  • Sick Rick Apr 07, 2009

    I've changed the therm, flushed the syst. and still have the overheating issue. HELP!

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  • Toyota Master
  • 1,861 Answers

Most likely the thermostat is sticking. Get the system flushed (get that rusty liquid out of the system), replace the thermostat & put in new coolant. Should fix it.

Posted on Sep 16, 2008

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Buy an American car before you don't have a job, you ****!

Posted on Apr 16, 2009

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Catalytic converter may be clogged. If you have replaced all the cooling system componets which it looks like most folks have this could be the problem.

Posted on Apr 14, 2009

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

Peugeot 307 1.4 2004 temp gauge isn't lifting? Oil ok water ok dash giving an alarm sound off?


Have the system pressure tested first, next any rust is bad news, it usually means that you have a seeping head gasket, the combustion gases are very corrosive and that causes the coolant to turn rusty fairly quick. To verify the engine is reaching proper temperature use a manual gage, if it is then check the gage sending unit for proper resistance value. That gunk you call Mayo is oil mixed with water in most cases.

Mar 30, 2017 | 2004 Peugeot 307 1.4

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Why is the coolant overflowing when the temp guage gets half way?


well the tank must never be full, when engine is cold
was it? (read operators guide to see methods)
water expands hot, and the tank captures this expansion
that is normal.
what does "until its all gone", mean, what is IT?
there are lots of tests.
the first one, is,
IS the engine overheating,?
try a new rad cap, they are dirt cheap.
and, is the oil or carbon in the RAD neck, cap off , cold engine>?
is there water in the engine oil, milky dip stick end?
same with A/T trans? milk, or pink/red ATF.
is there steam going out the tip of the exhaust pipe on a fully hot engine>? yes/no?
is air and water exploding in to the side expansion tank.?

cold engine
remove rad cap'
fill rad with 50% AF.
new cap back on.
put 50% AF 1/2 way up in to expansion tank(its marked clearly)
start engine , does it overflow now>?

Jul 04, 2014 | Saturn SL1 Cars & Trucks

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We changed thermostat sensor and thermostat, still over heating. What could it be?


overheating has many symptoms, not just green on the ground
do tell?


temp gauge lies its buns off... use a real tool called a thermometer to see real temps. we use a IR pyro gun to see it and not GET burnt.

gauges is telling truth, so......................


a bad rad cap, or bad thermostat are common fails.
test one: (dead cold engine) never hot.
radiator tank filler cap off , you look down there, is the level really low?
(forget the silly side expansion tank for now)
if found low , then fill it and burp it. no air allowed there
running 50% antifreeze now? no?, that its WRONG.
the tool is $2, test it. (Prestone sells it)
the coolant is all rusty color, (ill not comment ) try service.

  1. Green on the ground,? for passengers feet.
  2. Water exploding from overfill side tank? ( oil in RAD or Milky engine oil) (same milk in transmission pan?)Exploding gases, on cold start is bad head gasket or warped head or cracked head/block, or just simple overheating, The Rad leak down test and the exhaust test (green/blue ) tests solve this riddle easy.
  3. Steam rising from hood or Radcap, or hose to Cap and recovery tank. Over heating or leaks.
  4. Dash gauge pegged. (or WILD GAUGE swings "air pockets below thermostat") or gauge bad. sender bad.
  5. Motor pinging and loss of power. (do not allow pinging, it will wreck the engine)
  6. Pistons landing on ground? (just joking....)
  7. A/C dies?, does it?, due to A/C engine overheat switch ,tripping off. a 235 ?F (spec) see FSM. A/C means Air conditioner clutch dead.
  8. Does the engine over heat , if left idling a long time (30min-1hr). or only at stop signs or red lights? (clutch fan not activating , check it, this way.)
  9. Does it only over heat while moving ? ( a bad pump, or Rad)
  10. Overheats, only on hills? (bad RAD)
  11. Only overheats pulling heavy loads ? (inside, full of bricks, or pulling a 1000 trailer ? ONLY?
  12. Never overheats moving fast on flat ground. (so the RAD fan is dead, no mater if stock or hacked in electric fan, it's DEAD)
  13. Do you have carbon or oil floating around in the Rad, filler CAP neck top tank ? yes?, that is bad head gasket or worse cracked block/head. Do the Exhaust test.
  14. Overheats under all conditions, Catastrophic overheat. ( can be bad pump (rotor gone) or RAD or system is packed up)
  15. Seems to overheat , even at first start , in 1min or less I have gases shooting into the overfill tank, that is a bad head gasket (mostly a warped head, at least)
  16. Antifreeze (and water) in the pans, Engine or Transmission.
  17. The RAD fan is DEAD ( just because a mechanical RAD fan coasts, don't mean it WORKS RIGHT.) See the clutch tests below. if electric fan , there is a test in the FSM covers this 100% the fan must come on over heated,.
  18. my electric fan , starts to run idling engine long time at 225F. It kicks on, some cars have 2 fan and staged, come on trip points.
  19. RTM read the manual the FSM>
  20. there is more im sure, cant think of them all now.

That pyro gun allows me to test any RAD easy , ask.
ok , i check all rad tube top and bottom and bingo find any tube clogged fast. if all are equally clogged.(partial) i cant find that.
that is caused by zero service, so...and there are signs for that too.


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If there is definately no air in the system and everything is working properly have you changed the pressure cap on the expansion bottle? Very unusual but if everything else is ok then it might be worth a shot. Caps have a pressure release mechanism biult into them.

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