I have a 93 ford taurus and it wont stop overtheating. We put new radiator hoses on it, new water pump, new thermostat, and flushed the radiator. The resevoir boils when it gets to hot sometimes. What is wrong with my car please help me. Amanda
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Re: My ford taurus hates us
I had the same problem. car overheated and i had no leaks. It turned out to be the water pump fins were disolved because i did not add a radiator lubricate solution to the radiator water. antifreeze does not come with a lubricate as it use to several years ago. my car was still under warranty and a local ford dealer replaced the water pump. problem was resolved. I guess this is how the antifreeze manufactures make a profit without raising the price.
Try synthedic oil but make sure its always full of coolant you might not think it leaks but when you start it up and go down the road the will leak and also check to see if you got the right therostat, get onw that opens up at a cooler temp
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I had the same problem with my 99 ford taurus. My ford taurus did exactly did same things that your vehicle is doing. runs cool on the freeway because the air is going through the radiator and cooling the water down.I checked the cooling fans, radiator and hoses for leaks also replaced my thermostat. nothing solved the problem. turns out that the new antifreeze does not come with a lubercant property any longer. you have to buy the lubercant additive separately and then add it to your cooling system when you replace the antifreeze. the lubercant protects your freeze plugs, water pump, radiator, thermastat from rusting out. Meanwhile because of the absents of the lubercant, my water pump impellers rusted out and dissolved. so the water pump had no fins to circulate the water. Luckly for me, I discovered that my car was still under warranty due to an extended warranty I had purchased when I bought the car. ford dealership replaced the water pump. Problem Solved.
check that you put the thermostat in the right way. Body into the water and not the hose. Check that the fan circuit is operational with the fuses and relays operating normally. If it is an auto check the temperature of the transmission oil as it is cooled by the radiator and that will make the car run hot if the oil is over heating from a transmission fault.
You have an upper hose, and a lower hose and both are attached to the radiator just in front of the engine and lead to the engine. The upper hose leads to the top of the engine where the thermostat housing is located. The loser hose usually go to the water pump near the middle of the engine.
if the leak was near the lower radiator hose then most likly the water pump is bad. The thermosat is located on the upper radiator hose, and as long as it was installed the correct way there should be no issue there.
Turn the drain valve at the bottom of the radiator counterclockwise to drain the coolant from your Ford Taurus into a suitable container. Depending on the size of the container, it may be necessary to lift the front end of your Taurus with a jack and lower it onto jack stands, or use wheel ramps.
Follow the upper radiator hose to the point where it meets the thermostat housing at the front of the intake manifold. Loosen the hose clamp and pull the radiator hose off the water connection on the thermostat housing.
Take out the two bolts on the thermostat housing cover with a 13mm socket or wrench and remove the cover. Clean any old gasket residue from the inside of the thermostat housing cover. Pull out the old thermostat.
Insert the new thermostat into the thermostat housing with the spring-side facing into the engine. Install the new thermostat gasket. Use a spray adhesive to hold the gasket in place, if desired.
Reinstall the thermostat housing cover. Tighten the bolts to 89-124 in. lbs. Reattach the upper radiator hose to the thermostat housing. Make sure the drain valve on the radiator is closed.
Fill the radiator with new or reserve coolant. Start your Ford Taurus and allow it to warm up to its normal operating temperature. Check hoses and connections for leaks and tighten hose clamps to stop any leaks, if necessary. Add more coolant as needed.
It sounds like you have an air pocket in your system. By the RH strut tower take the heater hose loose from the metal line and fill the cooling system when coolant starts coming out reconnect the hose. If that doesn't work jack the car up where the over flow tank is the highest point and fill the cooling system.
If it's the 3.0L Vulcan Engine (OHV), the thermostat is on the driver's side of the vehicle. Follow the upper radiator hose back to a metal area with three 10mm bolts. This is the thermostat housing. Undo the bolts, and there's the thermostat. Mark the back of it with the old thermostat in it (if you get one with a jiggle valve, it'll make it easier to put the new one in because the jiggle valve needs to be on top). The thermostat and housing aren't perfectly round, so you'll have to play with it a little to get it to line up. Make sure to change the gasket. The spring side of the thermostat goes into the engine.
The water pump is in the serpentine assembly. It's the larger pulley located toward the firewall. It'll be easiest to remove the water pump if you also remove the coolant recovery tank. The water pump pulley has four 1/2" bolts that you need to take out WITH THE BELT STILL ATTACHED. I can't stress this enough. The belt will keep the pulley in place so that you can remove the bolts. Take the pulley off, then the belt. Remove the heater hose at the top and the radiator hose at the bottom. There are 12 bolts of two diameters (1/2" and 10mm if I'm not mistaken). Tap the heater hose lightly with a soft-faced mallet to break the seal with the gasket. Trash the old gasket. Replace gasket (you can also line the mating surface of the water pump with RTV Sealant, put the new gasket on the new pump, and line the other side of gasket with a second coat of RTV sealant if you want a really good seal). Install the water pump and torque to manufacturer's specs. Attach the pulley to the water pump hand tight and put the belt back on. Tighten the pulley bolts. Put the coolant recovery tank back in place. Fill with coolant, start engine, bleed and check for leaks.
To bleed cooling system: Idle the engine until the thermostat opens (you'll be able to tell bacause the upper radiator hose will be uber hot and you'll feel coolant running through this hose). Squeeze all hoses in the system that you can reach, but don't burn yourself. Stop the engine and let it cool. Open the radiator cap and squeeze the COLD upper radiator hose. You'll see some bubbles in your recovery tank. You might have to monitor your coolant level for a couple of days while the final bits of air are purged through your radiator cap (that's why it's pressurized).
Hope this helps. It's not hard, but it took me quite awhile.
Follow your radiator hose all the way to the engine block, it is located at the end of this hoes. you will need to remove this hose to retrieve it. this will be the large hose connected to the radiator. there is a metal couple at the end that couples this hose to the engine block. its in the front of the motor on top of the water pump.