Starter not engauging when key is turned to start position

The security ( anti-theft ) system on that vehicle will not cause a no crank , depending on what you think a no crank is . Turning the key to start an nothing happens is a no crank - no start condition . Now if you turn the key to start an the starter engauges an spins the engine over but won't start an run ,this is a crank no start condition . Two different type problems all together . How did you reset system ? Disconnect the battery ?

You don't need the clutch switch. You need an ignition switch. A part in the switch is stuck on the start position, even though the key moves.

starter solinoide or ignition barrel faulty ! try key first by rotating slightly back from engauging cranking , if no change then remove live feed off solinoide from battery and hold in place by hand at battery end then try cranking to see if it stays engauged !

Not enough info given. Does the starter turn? Does it engage the flywheel and actually turn the engine over? Does it only click and not turn over? Does it even click when the key is turned to the start position? I'm not sure about Chrysler products but some makes have an externally mounted starter solenoid (a fancy word for high-current relay). Some solenoids are mounted directly onto the starter motor and therefore a LOT harder to get to and much more difficult to replace. Yours also has a starter relay somewhere in an under hood fusebox. Whatever you do, DO NOT take a hammer and strike the starter!! That worked on a stuck bendix in OLD STYLE STARTERS. Newer starters have large magnets just under the casing that can so very easily be SHATTERED and completely destroyed by doing this. Old style starters were not made that way so you could hit them without doing damage to the internals. Typically this is how the whole starter action works: You turn the key to start & this closes the start circuit sending 12 volts either directly to a starter solenoid OR to a starter relay which in turn closes its contacts and sends 12 volts down to the starter solenoid which in turn engauges the bendix to thrust a pinion gear outward so it meshes with the flywheel teeth (a big metal plate bolted between the engine and transmission, makes the starter motor begin spinning to turn the engine over. This phase is known as "cranking". Starting is the next phase which occurs if the engine has compression, fuel & air (in the proper proportion), and spark. For example a engine having a bad ignition system may and most likely will crank over but will not be able to start. The part you got is for the ignition/fuel injection system, not the starting system.

Sounds

there is a drain in the system,
all you need is a test light
un hook the positive battery cable
connect the test light between the positive lead and the battery terminal
if there is a drain the light will lit
remove each fuse at a time ( put it back if the light does not go out )
which ever fuse that you remove and make the light goes out, that's the one that cause the drain.
check and fix that system

Yes, this sounds like your starter is begining to go out. What will happen as this problem continues to progress: is that when you go to start the car you will have to try 2, then 3 then 4 times for the starter to finally engauge. Then if you pray really hard when it gets to the 5th time it might start. The noise you hear is the bendix drive not engauging the flywheel.

The click, click, click you are hearing when you turn your key is the starter solinoid attempting to engauge but because the battery is dead it will not engauge. Charge the battery then start the car and check the voltage to the battery. It should be between 13.5 vdc and 14.5 vdc. If it is not, the alternator is bad. If the voltage is between the above mentioned values and the battery goes dead again it is a bad battery.

on a gm car or truck i have found that the battery side post ends get corrosion in between the rubber and the round metal plate.
take bolt and metal plate out, clean and reinstall btoh positive and negative ends. it will almost for certain fix your issue.let me know how it goes.

first check all fuses if good go to your starter solenoid take off the ignition wire usually i terminal with someone helping have them turn key to start holding while you take your test light to see if the wire lights the light if it lights put back on the solenoid now test the pos cable on the starter should have juice if not it is fed of the starter solenoid trace all wires back search for burnt inline fusible link there white or black oval shaped test both sides of wire if one side has juice the other doesnt the link is junk they usally burn thru were it looks like a welding arc check all also pull on both sides of wire to see if they come out of link goodluck