Question about 1995 Dodge Stratus

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Banged up the front end

I recently was in a fender bender that scraped up the driver side bumper cover and bent the bumper support pushing the battery back into the wheel compartment. The bump ruined one tire and it's rim and threw off the alignment. Now when I hit about 25mph there is a rhythmic rubbing/scraping sound. It dies out after I hit about 30/35 and picks back up again at about 60. I have a few ideas of my own, but is there anyone who can explain this?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 98 Answers

SOURCE: Scrape on my car

hello i can help u. If u go to auto zone or aids auto store they will have touch up paint for you.or if u go to a auto body shop and say please and smile they should help you to.anyway it shouldnt cost more then 10.00 dollars.

Posted on Mar 10, 2009

66 chrgr
  • 1011 Answers

SOURCE: very loud "rubbing " sound when driving only

you did damage to the wheel bearing i bet it sounds like a airplane sound. also if you steering wheel is off 7"then have front end aligned because this will destroy the tires and they will make noise.

Posted on Mar 29, 2009

landsend
  • 1066 Answers

SOURCE: Hood, Front/Rear Bumper replacement

collisionrepairadvice.com  you can most likely find the parts at the local junk yard.  Yes with some skill and tools you can do these repairs yourself...Good luck

Posted on Apr 01, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Loud front end noise over low-speed city street bumps.

I have the same problem but others said that replacing the $25 sway bar bushings fixed the problem. This solution helped several owners so it's worth changing.

Posted on Apr 25, 2009

  • 3600 Answers

SOURCE: Front end shakes when it hit a bump

Yep tie rod ends both control arms and a frame bushings. If you had time and could send some pictures I could be more presise and could give you a detaild ideal on how to test the entire front end, but you do not seem to want a lot of help as this would require me to give you two hours of instruction and testing parts that you are not aware of..

Posted on Jul 22, 2009

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Release hood latch and open hood.
Remove the headlamp assemblies.
Hoist vehicle and support with safety stands.
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Remove front wheelhouse splash shields fasteners as necessary to gain access to bolts attaching front fascia to fender.
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The "push pin fasteners" are the pain you are having i believe. They push in, but to get them out you need squeeze them on the back & pull at the same time. If you happen to break a few, you can buy them in various sizes at the auto parts store. I hope this information is helpful, an owners manual will not have any info like this in it.



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Here's some instructions for removing bumper and headlights.

E-Class W211 front bumper removal (standard body style).

Tools needed:
- Automotive wheel ramps (Rhino ramps from Autozone).
- 1/4" drive socket set with 8mm and 10mm sockets.
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- Floor jack, optional but useful.
- Flat blade screwdriver.

Instructions for bumper removal:

1) Turn front wheels full right to remove push-pin fastener at lower front corner of left wheel well plastic splash guard. It's difficult to remove this fastener once the car is up on the wheel ramps.

2) Turn front wheels full left to remove push-pin fastener at lower front corner of right wheel well plastic splash guard.

3) Drive car up on wheel ramps. Block rear tires. Open hood.

4) Remove lower mesh plastic grille. There are five attachment points on the top edge of the grille. You can get to three of them with your hand by reaching between the radiator and the back side of the grille. The two outer ones can be released with a screwdriver also reaching in between the grille and radiator. Once the plastic tabs are released, you can remove the grille by pulling it out from the front of the car.

5) Remove the plastic panel located immediately behind the bumper from the bottom of the engine compartment. This panel is held in place with nine sheet metal screws with a 8mm hex head. Five screws are on the bottom of the car and there are two screws in each wheel well at the inner lower edge. After removing all nine screws you can work the panel free.

6) Disconnect the cable from each fog light and remove both fog lights. They are held in place by two sheet metal screws with a #20 torx head.

7) Remove the side marker bulbs. The one on the passenger side turns clockwise to remove and the one on the driver side turns counter-clockwise.

8) Remove the temperature sensor from its socket on the driver side.

9) If you have a floor jack, raise the car at the jack point on the cross member below the engine. You do not want to raise it off the wheel ramps. But it helps to have more clearance above the tires to work in the front wheel wells.

10) Remove three of the plastic nuts holding the forward half of the plastic wheel well liner in place. It's not necessary to remove the plastic liner. You just need to loosen it up so that you can pull it away from the fender to gain access to the screw and bracket securing the bumper to the fender.

11) Pull back the wheel well liner and remove the sheet metal screw from the rear end of the metal bracket . There is only one sheet metal screw (#20 torx head) holding this bracket in place. Don't attempt to remove the bracket yet. I used a #20 torx bit in a 1/4" socket with a 6-inch extension for a 1/4" drive wrench. The head of the screw faces the ground.

12) Remove the 5mm bolts (8mm hex head) holding the bumper to the headlight assembly between the small lens and large lens (both sides).

13) Remove the two 6mm bolts (10mm hex head) on either side of the large grille area opening.

14) Remove the two 6mm bolts (10mm hex head) securing the bumper to the bottom edge of the crashbar. You can access these bolts through the front where you removed the plastic mesh grille.

15) Remove the three 5mm bolts (8mm hex head) holding each headlight assembly in place. Two longer bolts are on top. One at the rear outer corner and one at the front inner corner. The third bolt is accessed from the bottom. It's in the area above the fog lamps. You don't need to disconnect the headlight cables and remove the assembly. But it helps to allow the headlight assembly to "float" freely while you disengage the bumper from the fender.

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17) The bracket holding the bumper cover to the fender has a "pin" that slips into a slot at the front edge of the bumper cover. There is a matching slot near the front edge of the fender. It's not possible to see this pin from the bottom of the car. Use a flat blade screwdriver to pry the bracket away from the bumper/fender and towards the center of the car. The bracket will "hinge" on the pin at the front end of the bracket. After you swing the bracket away from the bumper, you need to slide it forward to remove it from the slot in the bumper cover and fender. You will probably scratch some paint off of this bracket with the screwdriver. I recommend repainting the scratched areas of the bracket before reinstalling it.

18) After removing the bracket from each side of the car you need to deal with the small plastic "hook" holding the bumper cover to the very front tip of the fender. This hook is an integral part of the bumper cover. Disengaging this hook from the fender is probably the most difficult step of removing the bumper. Simultaneously raise the head light assembly slightly, push the leading edge of the fender outward slightly, and push the bumper cover inward toward the headlight assembly. Don't get too aggressive with the fender. It's aluminum and you will make a real mess if you apply too much pressure on the fender. It took me about 20 minutes to free each side from this hook. It should take you less time, since you now know that the hook exists!

19) Gently pull the bumper forward and away from the car. This is one step where a second person would be helpful. But I did manage to do this step alone. There is a "pulley" like attachment point on each side just below the fender/bumper seam.

To re-install the bumper, reverse the order of the steps above. When re-installing the bracket between the bumper cover and fender, I smeared a thin coating of car wash soap on the bracket to facilitate snapping the bracket back into place.




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