I have a 1995 Turbo diesel Suburban. Yesterday I run with it and the red battery light appear. I view my volt gauge pass in 15 to 30 minutes, from 12V to 9V. I stop because I think I run on only on the Battery, the Alternator not charging...
This morning I will take off both battery for recharge in my home and restart the truck. after if I unplug the + pole on the 2 battery and the truck stop. I think it's because the alternator is dead.
Do you have another test I can make for diagnose it?
My procedure is OK?
It's possible is only the belt?
the alternator or the belt or other solution is easy to remplace it?
Do you have procedure for replace it?
I'm sorry for my english because i,m a french men.
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Re: Suburban charging problem
Pulling the battery post is not a good test.. It can cause a voltage spike which will kill the alternator if it is not already bad. and it causes a spark at the battery which can cause battery to explode!!!! It is not likely a battery will explode but since you have just charged them they will be "gassy",and I have firsthand seen someone have a battery explode in there face it is not pretty!!!!
if your belt is still on it is most likely the alternator
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The first thing is to have the battery load tested at your local Napa, autozone or what have you. This is a free service. If the battery checks out good, Next step is to remove the cables and clean the terminals. With this done and with the car running you should use a volt meter to see how many volts the alternator is putting out, Honestly a good Alternator will give a minimum of 13.2 volts to a maximum of 14.8 volts. Do not trust the "dummy lights" or even the volt gauge in the car...They lie. Use a good DVM.
the low charge # @ gauge could be caused by bad ground or high resistence in the wireing harness. Don't think it has anything to do with your 4x shifting prob I would check 4x switch and electric motor on transfere case.
I'm not a VW diesel expert, but you should have a switch on the clutch to prevent you from cranking the engine in gear. I would look for that switch and check for voltage on both sides with the pedal engaged. There should be a small wire on the starter solenoid that goes to the clutch switch and then to the key.
SOUND LIKE ALTERNATOR NOT CHARGING BATTERY,WITH ENGINE RUNNING CHECK BATTERY VOLTS AT BATTERY SHOULD BE 13.5 - 14.5 VOLTS.IF NOT ALTERNATOR NOT WORKING CHECK ALTERNATOR BATTERY POWER FEED WIRE AND VOLTAGE REGULATOR WIRES FOR DAMAGE AND LOOSE CONNECTION. CHECK ALTERNATOR FUSE.BEFORE REMOVING ALTERNATOR.TURN OFF RADIO FIRST BEFORE REMOVING THE NEGATIVE BATTERY TO KEEP FROM LOCKING OUT RADIO.
Put a temporary voltmeter @ the battery....see what IT reads...If your charging system reads between 12.8 and 14.2 volts, with all of your acc's. on (headlites,wipers etc.) you don't need to drive into a boulder. Just get a new voltage gauge!!!!!!!
The alternator is usually the culprit when nothing else has been modified. However yo mentioned changing it. (actually the regulator inside the alternator usually fails and drains the bat when the engine is off) However there is a very common issue with mid 90's gm trucks, the brake switched go bad and cause the brake lights to stay on. Try lightly touching the brake pedal and see the lights go off after slowly releasing it. the fix is a new switch that fairly easy to replace . These are mounted on the brake pedal arm just above your foot.
Aside from these two issues, you will need to trace the problem to its source by taking items out of service one at a time by removing fuses. not that the engine computer and the radio will always draw power at start up and a tiny clock current thereafter. But there should not be anything else. The voltage guage is not very accurate in the dash. Use a volt meter to watch voltages unplug fuses until the voltage goes up. without the vehicle running, voltage should be between 11 and 12 volts on a charged battery.
And finally, check the grounding. There should be a ground strap between the engine and vehical body in addition to the battery cable. If this is broken or missing it will cause errant readings of voltage in the dash.
I hope at least one of these tips works out for you.