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Re: How to replace ABS Sensor
They're a pain because they press into the hub. Some of them have a retaining bolt, others don't. The problem is that heat in the hub, from rolling friction in the wheel bearing and brake system heat transfer causes them to seize in place. The only way I've been able to remove them is to remove the end axle bolt that holds the axle in place, pivot the upright to gain access to the inside of the upright from behind, and tap the sensor out. You have to be careful not to damage it, and it helps a lot to spray some PB Blaster or penetrating oil in there to help loosen things up. If you try to pry or lever it out from the wire end of the sensor, you WILL destroy it.
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The ABS system means the Anti-lock Brake System. If the ABS lights on the dashboard permanently the ABS system is faulty. You must access the ABS Electronic Control Unit (ECU) memory to pull out all DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Codes), using diagnostic equipment connected to the data link connector of the car. Then you will be full informed about bad pieces (e.g.: front right wheel abs sensor interrupted, ...). After bad pieces replacement you will be able to erase all faults memored by ABS ECU, in other words reset the ABS system and turn off the warning lamp on dashboard.
The main reasons why an ABS light is on is from the wheel sensors being dirty or needing to be replaced, each sensor cost approx. $49.00-$149.00 without labor. Cleaning them should cost about $50.00+. if the wheel sensors test good(there are 4 sensors, one each wheel) the trouble may be in the BCM(Body Control Module) this would be a costly part approx. $400.00 used up to $1,000.00 new.
This is always extremely difficult as these abs sensors become jammed in the hole after a couple of years, I usually strip everything down around the sensor and smash it out with a hammer and screw driver or centre punch. you will find that the new sensor will go back in easily with a little lubrication.
After taking the car back to our most excellent garage they quickly diagnosed the fault with the ABS. It was to do with the gap between the sensor and the wheel - it has to be a very precise distance and was disturbed by the changing of the CV boot (seems to be a common problem).
Half hour later and it is as good as new - this was after lots of electronic testing etc. - the clue was that it didn't give any registered fault on the diagnostic computer.