Question about 1991 Plymouth Acclaim

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Won't start, fuel pump runs at key on, spark at coil wire into distributor is yellow, little or no spark at plug wire ends

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  • Anonymous Mar 20, 2014

    HAVE CHECKED FUEL PRESS CODES STILL NO SPARK TEST FOR POWER AT COIL CONT #2 WIRE NO POWER

  • Anonymous Mar 20, 2014

    NO START CRANKS OK , TIMING BELT OK , FUEL PRESSURE OK HAS NO SPARK , THEREIS NO 12 VOLT AT COIL PLUG IN

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Put in new fuel pump still wont start

Posted on Apr 20, 2013

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My ford 2000 tuns over but wont start, fuel pump is running. thank you jenny

Posted on Nov 21, 2008

  • jenny cross Nov 21, 2008

    i dont know if it's getting gas or not how do i tell

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1996 plymounth voyager v6 won,t start with all the plugs wires on but will start with 3 on.

Posted on Sep 30, 2008

Turns on for a sec and then goes off and wont start

Posted on Sep 29, 2008

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Sounds like bad distributor cap or rotor. If ones bad, might as well change both. Take off the cap and if there is a black color on the ends of the prongs, or on the end of the rotor, time to replace. Is it getting fuel into motor?

Posted on Sep 15, 2008

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Cherokee revs up wont start


Your description is too vague to give specific advise. However, if you are stating that the engine turns over when you turn the key but it wont run, then you want to check a few possibilities. Fuel, Spark, compression. Make sure the engine is getting fuel. Then check for spark at one of the plug wires. Then check cylinder compression. No fuel can be a fuel pump, plugged filter, or pump electrical connection, like pump relay or wires. Spark problem can be ignition coil, coil pack, distributor module, distributor points. Compression can be piston rings, valves, head gasket. This is not everything, but it may help you!

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1996 sierra vortec 350.engine cranks but wont start.acts like it trys to fire when you let off key


First thing I would check on a GM brand truck that wont start is the fuel pressure. Many parts stores have tools you can borrow or rent. Head there and grab a fuel pressure tester. And ask them if they know the specification for fuel pressure on your truck. If this is not an option you can always try squirting a shot or two of carb cleaner or a shot of starting fluid. (Be careful! Highly flammable stuff!!) If the squirt helps it start and run briefly look into the fuel pump and/or wiring circuit. If the fuel pressure is below spec but there, odds are u need to replace fuel pump and filter. If there is no pressure could be bad fuel pump or wiring.
if fuel pressure is within spec then next thing to look at is ignition. Pull the wire off the distributor that comes from the coil and place it next to a clean piece of metal on the engine. While cranking the engine look to see if the spark is jumping from the wire end to the clean metal. If so the coil is good. Next try a wire off one of the spark plugs the same way. Then u know the distributor is working. If the truck is old and hasnt had a tune up in a while that would be a good place to start also. New distributor cap and rotor and new spark plugs and wires would be a good starting point. Making sure the plug wires are in proper order on the distributor and going to the proper spark plugs could also be the cause. Another thing to check is the timing of the ignition from the distributor with a timing light. Hope this is helpful

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Ny 1989 chevy blazer S-10 V6 2WD won't st,art,


I don't think 3 months makes stale gas, maybe year old gas, but not your short time. And if not mistaken, I think you have throttle body injection on an '89 chevy, although chevy always was a little behind the curve on new improvements to cars. hint, hint.
The computer has everything to do with it. it controls ignition timing, it controls spark, it controls the fuel pump and the injectors. Since it won't start with starter fluid or gas, next step is to look into the ignition system. Check for spark on a couple of spark plug wires. If you have a blue, snapping spark, you can assume your ignition system is working well enough to start the engine. Take a spare spark plug or pull one of your plugs from engine, attach the plug wire onto it, and lay the plug on a metal piece of the top of engine-the spark plug hex and threads is the natural ground for the plug, so if you lay the threads on a metal piece, or hold it tight against a steel bolt, you can observe the spark jumping the gap, and no danger of getting shocked. But if you hold it, just in case, wear a glove or wrap a heavy cloth or rag around the wire. Remember, a blue energetic spark has to be seen to verify good ignition. Oh yes, you need a helper to crank the engine over while you watch for spark. If no spark, and you have a distributor, check the coil wires output at the end that connects to center top of distributor.Pull it from distributor and hold the metal end terminal no more than 1/4 inch from a ground source, a bolt or the frame, or an engine bracket. Helper has to crank the engine over, and watch for good blue spark. If no spark there-ignition: coil, crank position sensor (or maybe a pickup coil inside your distributor-same function), ignition control module, computer, and all the associated wiring.
If coil has spark, but none at plug wire ends, inspect closely the distributor cap and rotor. not passing current or shorting out there.
So the basics are, to run, the engine needs gas, air, compression, and a timely spark.

May 06, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

94 chevy 1500 4.3 no spark no fuel


Sounds like you replaced alot of parts for nothing.
The pickup coil in the distributor "fires" the module which grounds the coil and the injectors.
Those components would need to be tested. The coil fires the plugs when the ground is removed by the module or the key switch.

Jan 08, 2013 | GMC C1500 Cars & Trucks

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My 1985 Skyhawk won't start. Cranks well but no start


BAD COIL OR IGNITION MODULE INSIDE DISTRIBUTOR RUN OHM TESTS TO VERIFY

Dec 08, 2012 | 1985 Buick Skyhawk

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1999 nissan altima won't start,no spark in distributor to the spark plugs..is it because of the security system? Don't have the remote for it..


1. Ignition Switch: Improperly Connected or Faulty Ignition Switch.
2. Battery: Battery Discharged or Faulty or Coroded, Broken, Shorted or Poorly Connected Battery Cable.
3. Solenoid Switch: Starter Solenoid Switch Faulty.
4. Starter Starter Motor Faulty.
5. Wireset: Worn or Damaged Spark Plug Wires.
6. Coil -Ignition-: Faulty Ignition Coil.
7. Distributor Cap: Loose, Cracked or Worn Distributor Cap.
8. Spark Plug: Incorrectly Gapped or Fouled Spark Plug(s).
9. Distributor Cap and Rotor Kit: Loose, Cracked or Worn Distributor Cap.
10. Carburetor: Worn, Faulty or Damaged Carburetor.
11. Fuel Pump Faulty Fuel Pump.

Sep 06, 2012 | 1998 Toyota RAV4

1 Answer

1990chevy suburban 2500 350 died while driving and won't restart I can hear the fuel pump turn on I have changed the fuel filter and still nothing what's next


check for spark, no spark, no fire engine wont run, possible bad ignition coil, wire from coil to distributor cap, no power to ignition coil from ignition switch (rare) wire broken to ignition coil (even rarer)

Jul 09, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

My k1500 start on but right away cuts out


Check coil by removing the wire from top of distributor and placing end of wire near the engine about 1/4-1/2" away and hitting ignition to see if the spark is blue, not red or yellow. Then check distributor cap for cracks/burned lugs, check rotor button for same, then remove spark plug wires one at a time, when you find one that doesn't affect the running of the motor you have found the bad plug or wire. If it starts and runs until it gets warm, usually the module in the distributor, held in by two screws. One other thing, I have a 91 K1500 and about 4 wks ago it started up but cut out badly then oil pressure dropped to zero suddenly. I found that the distributor clamp had loosened allowing the distributor to "pop" up disconnecting the distributor shaft from the oil pump and changing the timing. As my dad used to tell me, if it has fire , fuel and compression the only thing left is timing to make it run! Never pour gasoline into intake while it is running , had a friend that lost some of his face doing that. If you can pour a little fuel into the intake then replace the air filter and housing and it runs smoothly when you start it = you have a fuel problem, maybe water in the fuel. Last but not least, short trips in cold weather can produce moisture in a metal gas tank causing the fuel pump to fail, also running low on fuel in hot weather overheats the pump causing premature failure. You need a pressure gauge to check fuel pressure at the throttle body. Hope all this helps.

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1 Answer

1997 Mazda 626 2.0 DOHC New timing belt, dist., wires, plugs, crank sensor, air filter, cats, air intake sensor and sundry other little things. It dies suddenly on the freeway. It runs perfectly otherwise....


When the car stops driving, at that time check the starter, if its got very hot, then this can be starter over heating issue. There are many other things to be checked.

Try this troubleshooting: ----If your engine cranks normally but will not start because it has no spark, or it stalls and won't restart because it has no spark, the problem may be due to any of the following:

1) A bad pickup inside the distributor, a stripped distributor drive gear (common problem with plastic distributor drive gears), broken, loose or corroded wires from the pickup to the ignition module or PCM. 2) A bad crankshaft position (CKP) sensor or broken, loose or corroded wires from the sensor to the PCM. 3) A bad ignition module or A bad ignition coil .

4) A bad rotor or distributor cap (cracks or carbon tracks that are allowing the spark to short to ground). 5) Faulty ignition switch.

------------

You can also do a test to confirm the problem .The procedure to do the test is as follows: --

If your engine has spark plug wires, disconnect one of the plug wires from a spark plug and place the end of the wire near a metal surface on the engine. Then insert a small Phillips screwdriver into the end of the wire (the plug boot), or a small bolt or nail to provide a conductive path. Then crank the engine and look for a spark to jump from the screwdriver, bolt or nail in the end of the plug wire to the engine. If you do not see a spark, there is an ignition problem.

OR---If your engine has a coil-on-plug ignition system with no plug wires, In that case remove one of the coils from the spark plug and insert an old spark plug, a spark plug tester or a screwdriver into the end of the coil. Ground the spark plug or plug tester to the engine, then crank the engine and look for a spark. No spark indicates an ignition problem. Possibilities to be checked in this problem are as follows:-- If the engine has no spark, check for voltage at the coil positive terminal when the ignition key is on. If NO voltage, then problem is on the trigger side of the coil (pickup, crank sensor, ignition module or primary wiring circuit).But If there is NO voltage at the coil itself, then in that case the problem is on the supply side (the ignition switch or ignition wiring circuit). But if the coil has voltage, then problem may be a bad high voltage output wire from the coil to the distributor, hairline cracks in the coil output tower, or cracks or carbon tracks inside the distributor cap or on the rotor. ------A car that cranks over but doesn't start, in many cases will be due to a bad fuel pump, a broken timing belt, an inoperative cam sensor or crank sensor. Also these problems are related to faulty spark plug. Check the spark at spark plugs when you start the car. Do you notice any spark. Actually you should see. If in case there is no spark then it's a spark plug problem. Also the coil pack gives power to spark plug. So check the voltage at coil pack. It will show 12 volt. If there is no voltage noticed at coil pack then its faulty coil pack that has to be replaced. If all the possible options checked out ok then check the car starter. The starter gets power from battery to start the car. If the starter is faulty then it will not let the car to start. Also check and confirm that there is fuel in the car. If its very low fuel then in some cases this causes the problem. Also check and confirm that fuel pump is functioning properly and the fuel filter is not clogged. One of the easiest ways to check for a fuel pump related problem is to spray a little starting fluid into the air intake while trying to start the car. If the car starts momentarily, then there's a good chance the fuel pump is not working or the car is out of gas. You can also listen for the fuel pump's humming sound when the key is first turned on. Also if a inoperative fuel pump is suspected, a good technician will always check to verify there is power and ground being supplied to the pump, to eliminate the possibility of a bad relay or electrical issue. Fuel pressure can be checked with a pressure gauge and if there is pressure, pulse can be checked at the fuel injectors in several ways including the most common, with the use of noid lights. If the injectors don't have pulse the engine won't start.---------- This troubleshooting tips will help you to solve the problem. Thanks. Helpmech.

Jan 07, 2011 | 1997 Mazda 626

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