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Changing trans fluid on 1995 jimmy slt 4wd. took bolts out of pan but the front and rear flange rest on the exhaust cross member in front and the frame crossmember in the rear. Chilton's says to jack up the trany in the rear & remove the frame crossmember. The 2 bolts in the center plate are fixed at the top and come off from the bottom & are about 1 1/2 past the plate they set in. The trany sets on this plate. Won't it put too much stress on the drive train to jack it up high enough for the bolts to clear?
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Nope, but you do have to remove both front and rear drive shafts, exhaust Y pipe, transfer case, all wiring that goes to the trans and transfer case, trans fluid lines, starter, torque converter bolts, trans cross member, then the trans and engine should tilt down far enough for you to get to the upper bolts of the bell housing.
Its not really that hard. You just need to take your time and a very large pan. Your filter is just in side the trans pan. The pan will have to be dropped. A ratchet and socket will make short work of it. Just undo the bolts on the trans pan( undo 3 corners and the bolts on that side, allowing the pan to lean to drain some of the fluid). Hold pan steady, and undo remaining bolts. Lower the pan. Now its time to scrape the old gasket off the pan and trans case. Please clean to metal, don't want leaks. Remove the old filter, and replace with the new one. Install the gasket to the pan, and bolt the pan back into place. If you put 4 bolts from around the pan, makes it easier to put the rest in. Now to refill the trans, you need a funnel and add the fluid ant the dipstick. Bring it back up to level. This job will take a beginner about one hour. Hope this helps
no drain plug on automatic trans loosen all bolts around pan remove rear and half of the side bolts[have catch pan under trans]lightly pry rear of pan will drop down and start draining once most fluid out start removing rest of bolts careful not to let pan lip bend
No drain plug, the filter is inside trans.
Remove trans oil pan (it will be full of tran fluid so loosen bolts on one end and work your way to other end)
May have to take bolts out of a cross member and slid it back to get to all the pan bolts.
The filter is flat and you'll see it once the pan is dropped. Pull straight down to remove.
Clean out sludge and old fluid from pan and scrape old gasket off.
Push new filter into place. Its a good idea to use gasket sealer to help keep it from leaking and to help hold gasket in place so bolt holes stay lined up while bolting up pan.
Tighten all bolts evenly. Then refill tran with the fluid your service manual list. Operate your truck in all gears (shifting back and forth) and recheck trans fluid level.
Its not a hard job to change filter and fluid. If you can change your own motor oil and have a rachet and sockets then you couldnt have any problems. Just get your filter and trans fluid from your local auto parts store like Autozone or Advance Auto Parts.
You know for a fact no power is being sent to the front axle? This transfer case only sends power to the front axle when the rear axle is slipping. Are there any unusual noises in the front axle?
If it is the transfer case, replacing it is not too big of a deal. If you are the least bit confident of your abilities, then you can do it yourself. I believe you have the NP242 transfer case, but I could be wrong. There will be a tag on the back side of the case, facing the rear axle, to the left of the drive shaft. On that tag, it will tell you which case you have. You can either have yours rebuilt, or buy a replacement either new or used.
To remove the t-case, first drain the fluid. Next remove the front driveshaft by removing the four bolts holding the u-joint in place. Then remove the rear drive shaft by doing the same as the front driveshaft, only this time it's at the rear differential. Once the drive shaft is free, support the full weight of the driveshaft, not that heavy, and pull it out of the t-case and set aside. Disconnect the shifter linkage and wiring harness. Next, remove the bolts that connect the t-case to the t-case cross member. Lift slightly and support the tranny/t-case assembly and remove the cross member. The t-case isn't very heavy, but you don't want it falling on your head, so remember to support it as you remove the bolts that connect it to the rear of the tranny. Once you bring it out from under the Jeep, and it's rebuilt or you have another unit to replace it, installation is the reverse of removal. Just remember to refill the t-case with the proper fluid.
these are a pain the best way to remove the pan is by removing the 2 bolt from the trans mount and jack up the transmission try to sneak the pan out that way it is tight! worst case the transmission cross member needs to be removed any other way results in damage to those solenoids if you already have a broken1 to remove it there is a u shaped clip and a plug that hold it to the valve body good luck!
Remove All Bolts at Rear of Pan With LARGE DRAIN PAN Under to catch old Trans FLUID. Then LoosenEqually The Remaining bolts ON THE SIDES Leaving the FRONT ROW OF BOLTS IN FOR NOW Allow the FLUID TO DRAIN FROM TRANS PAN ,
As it Slows Down start REMOVING the SIDE BOLTS Equally Drain PAN And THEN Take The REMAINING Bolts From the Front ROW < All that was to Allow Fluid to come out SLOWLY and Not Drench you. The Rest Is EASY You See the FILTER It has 2 Maybe 3 Screws holding it in Place Remove them REMEMBERING its Position For Install Reverse Procedure on INSTALL of Filter the Pan Gasket Should Be LIGHTLY GLUED to the VERY CLEAN Surface of PAN And Most Bolts In Holes as needed Tighten Pan Nuts and Done ! ! !
On many vehicles the exhaust runs under the oil pan, on others there
may have a cross member in the way, or brackets that will hinder oil
pan removal. These parts need to be removed. The exhaust nuts/bolts
will most likely be rusted. It is best to spray them with penetrating
oil. You can use WD-40, PB Blaster, Deep Creep, or something similar.
After you have sprayed all of the nuts/bolts, let the penetrating oil
soak in for about 10 minutes. Now remove the exhaust pipe that runs
under the oil pan. The catalytic converter may, or may not be in the
piece that you have to remove. If you have to remove a cross member,
simply unbolt it and set it to the side, it is best to mark which side
is the front, as some will only go on one way. Other than that, you should not have to pull the engine at all.
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