Take a tyre lever a put in between the g/box and inner cv joint put slight pressure but be sure you are not catching the oil seel, Then give the Cv a slight knock away from the g/box. It has a cir clip inside that keeps it from moving out while driving.
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remove the battery lead. remove the drive shaft at the diff flange and remove it from the gear box. undo engine mounts/ cross member at rear of gear box if necessary. undo bell housing bolts around rear of engine. remove gear lever if stick shift . If not remove linkages at gear box Pull gearbox rear wards and lower to the ground . A point of interest here is that when a clutch sudders it is advisable to firstly check all the engine mounts are not soft as this affects the clutch operation especially if you have a cable operated clutch
Basic . remove drive shaft. remove rear engine mount after supporting gear box on mobile jack and engine ,with blocks under sump undo gear box bolts and if the starter motor is involved . remove the terminal from the battery first. undo the slave cylinder of the bell housing / cable if applicable. pull the gear box to the rear . remove the pressure plate bolts by going around the plate a little at a time . Lift the pressure plat away and catch the clutch plate as it falls out. Make sure that you see the way the clutch plate goes in as if you install the new one incorrectly you will be pulling the box again. check the spigot bearing / bush in the rear of the crank shaft and if faulty or worn replace it . check flywheel face and if you want a good job then have it re-machined to flat again . Follow tensioning procedures when replacing the flywheel. put the clutch plate in position and use a clutch aligning tool to ensure that it is centred. AT this point if the plate is in correctly you should be able to hold it against the flywheel and turn it freely without the hub hitting on the fly wheel bolts. fit the new pressure plate and do the bolts up in the correct manner to the tension specs. . Replace the throw out bearing on to the housing in the throw out fork. Remove the clutch aligning tool ( tap with hammer if it appears jammed ) refit the gear box and associated items in reverse order of removal.
for the full steps then get a workshop manual as there are some details that will be missed . Basically it is Remove the battery terminal. remove the rear drive shaft ( front also if 4wd). Remove the gear lever at the tower bolts on the gear box. Drain the gear box or be prepaired for the gear oil to run out the end of the transmission when you pull the box. . Place a bottle jack under the sump at the rear of the engine . Place a trolley jack under the gear box. undo the rear transmission mount cross member Undo all the bell housing bolts. lower the jack and the trolley jack and pull the gear box back. Undo the bolts holding the pressure plate on the flywheel a bit each at a time as you go around the plate . Remove the plate and the clutch plate ( be aware that the clutch plate will only go back in one way so watch the way the clutch hub was facing. Remove and replace the bearing in the back of the crank shaft. clean up the flywheel face ( good idea for a good non shudder job is to have the flywheel re-machined ) fit the clutch plate the right way and fit the pressure plate . Use a clutch aligner tool as it will be impossible to fit the gear box with out it. Replace the clutch throw out bearing. Now re install using the reverse processes As I said a manual shows it all
Drop the tail shaft . remove the gear lever from inside the cab. remove the housing bolts and pull gear box back out of the way. remove the clutch pressure plate by evenly undoing the pressure plate cover bolts. lift away along with the clutch plate Remember the way the clutch plate is facing as it will only go in one way. If the flywheel is badly blued or scored remove it and have it machined flat. Check and if necessary replace the bearing/bush in the end of the crank shaft. Fit new clutch plate the correct way or the flywheel bolts will hit the clutch plate and you will have to do the job again. position up the pressure plate and use a clutch aligning tool to hold the clutch plate exactly in line with the bush/bearing in the crank. tighten up the cover plate bolts evenly so as not to warp the pressure plate. Replace the clutch throw out bearing as it will be on the way out. Reposition the gear box back on to the motor making sure that the flange faces remain parallel at all times so that the splines of the input shaft do not bind on the clutch plate splines. Push the gear box all the way home and bolt up. Do not use the bolts to pull the box in as there is something wrong and you will damage something. The box will go all the way home easily if you have done everything correctly. Finish the job.
A long and difficult job best done on a hoist. The transmission and transfer case are quite heavy so a gear box jack is the order of the day. Remove drive shafts at the gear box and transfer case . Remove the gear lever and any wires/hoses to the box. Undo the bell housing bolts and take the weight on the transmission jack. Take care here as the gear box/ transfer case will tend to turn and fall off the jack. Finish removing the bolts and full the unit back out of the road. Un do the clutch pressure plate bolts evenly and remove the pressure plate and clutch plate . The clutch plate only goes in one way so remember which way it was facing when you take it out. Remove the spigot bearing/bush from the crank shaft and fit new one . Check that the fly wheel is smooth and any blue spots and burn marks will have to be machine out so it will have to be removed as well for the machining. When all is done replace the fly wheel /clutch assembly . Replace the throw out bearing and prepare to refit the transmission. Yes you can take short cuts but it will result in a jumpy/ shuddering clutch and you will have to do it all again.(extra dollars and time).replace the clutch and pressure plate as a unit and not one or the other. It will take about 6 hours of work but it should be a good job to last a long time.
Somtimes with manual gear boxes the clutch shaft wears in the spigot bearing / bush in the crank shaft or flywheel. It may be necessary to apply force evenly around the bell housing to remove the rust build up on this shaft. If you have a pull type clutch plate ( the only reason for the release arm getting tight) it will be necessary to release this arm from its pivot point first . Check the manual for this proceedure.
from your description, it sounds like the clutch friction plate has worn down and the grinding noise is caused by the rivets holding the friction material in place rubbing against the flycheel and the clutch cover.
i think that the best advice i can give you here is to find a mechanic who can do the job for you, or at least help you with the job.. i can understand that finances can be an issue, but changing a clutch is not a job to try with limited mechanical experience. most clutch changes involve removal of the drive shafts (front wheel drive) or the prop shaft (rear wheel drive). then complete removal of the gearbox........ then the clutch cover needs to be removed, the clutch plate replaced and realigned. then it all need to be replaced.
i do not think it would be fair of me to advise trying this job yourself with limited experience, but if you do need to do this yourself, then i can only recommend that you get hold of a good workshop manual, that should have step by step instructions on the clutch change, usually with photos and diagrams.
Hi, it must be done from underneath (unless you remove the entire engine), hoist up the car and work from underneath. Drain Gear box oil.
Remove wheels, disconnect bolts and swing out wheel hubs, remove CV Joint drive shafts (both sides).
Disconnect two get change levers
Disconnect clutch cable. Then replace it with the new one ...