Question about 1996 Toyota Camry

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Clutch not responding

Clutch pedal cylinder not delivering the fluid to the slave and master cylinder, the pedal stays in up ot\r down position. ( a wrong fluid has been mixed when top up). How to repair this?

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  • bvienta96 Sep 18, 2008

    Thanks, i have fixed it. I did fill up the system with bleeding at the slave cylinder, and try to bread the system by myself with limited success. The pedal had only an inch "work" at the bottom, and that was enough to shift the gear, but the next day the pedal was back to normal by itself ?? The clutch feels good. Is it possible that system is self-bleeding?

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  • Master
  • 421 Answers

Well if you have mixed a wrong type of fluid (such as power steering or oils) you are going to have to replace the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder. Before you install the new parts be sure to drain all the old fluid out of the clutch line, and flush the clutch line with brake cleaner and blow compressed air thru until its clean and dry. install your new parts and fill with fresh (NEW) fluid whatever the manufacturer recommends most any DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluids will work (read the cap on the resivoir) and proceed with bleeding the air from the system, i usually fill up the resivoir with the bleed screw open(on the slave) until fluid with no air comes out and then proceed with the bleeding process this is called gravity bleeding and will help speed things along be sure to rate this and good luck this is not very hard to do and should take about an hour HERE IS THE MASTER
AND HERE IS THE SLAVE about $80 in parts altogether including fluid please rate _JEFF

Posted on Sep 13, 2008

  • jeff r
    jeff r Sep 13, 2008

    for some reason the slave link also shows the master but if you scroll down the list on rock auto.com you will see the slave on there about $20 good luck sorry to hear about your mishap but it happens all the time, if you don't change both it wont work as oils (and any foreign materials) make the seals swell up and leak and cant be airtight please rate this -Jeff

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I have a 91 passat and the clutch pedal stays on the floor. I bought this car as a project. It has been sitting for 5 years w/ a busted timing belt. Timing is fixed and is running but the clutch pedal just...


If you're talking about an hydraulic clutch system that uses brake fluid:
1. Fill the reservoir with clean brake fluid.
2. Have an assistantpull the clutch pedal up and leave it there.
3. Locate the slave bleeder - the slave is connected to the master, is located on the transmission housing and pushes the clutch release lever).
4. Open the bleeder and have the assistant push the clutch pedal down.
5. Close the bleeder.
6. Make sure there's plenty of fluid in the reservoir
7. Repeat steps 2-4-5-6 until brake fluid comes out with uniform pressure from the bleeder. Non uniform pressure is sign there may be air in the system.
There should be good pressure at the pedal now in the up position. Pressing it should disengage the clutch.

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Clutch suddenly has no resistance and car won't shift gears. Fluids were low, have put fluid in the reservoir but still doesn't work. How do you bleed a clutch line?


on the transmission there is a slave cylinder that works like a brake cylinder, when you apply pressure to the clutch pedal a rod inside the vehicle under the dash pushes into a clutch master cylinder, (almost like a brake master cylinder without the reservoir, as the clutch master cylinder works off the brake master cylinders reservoir) the plunger in the clutch master cylinder applies fluid pressure to the slave cylinder,(located down on the trans near the clutch fork assembly) which projects a piston rod into the clutch fork dis-engaging the clutch. To bleed the clutch slave cylinder locate the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder,break loose so it loosens and tightens easily. Check fluid in brake master cylinder reservoir,fill if needed, while bleeder on the slave cyl is closed have a helper push clutch pedal to floor and back 7-8 times, (At first the clutch might stay at the floor, just pull it up by hand or foot and continue) after several pumps with no rest time push pedal to the floor and hold down with foot pressure, at this time loosen the bleeder on slave untill fluid leaks out, watch for air bubbles, close bleeder and repeat untill there is no sign of air bubbles, (make sure to check fluid in the brake master cylinder and keep fill as needed, do not let fluid get less than 1/2 empty as it might **** air and you will have to start over) If this does not bring clutch to operate then you need to check if slave cylinder is reachig its full extension of push rod or not. If it is not then you will have to replace the clutch master cyl or the clutch slave cyl or both as seals are bad and wont hold pressure. Or you need to inspect the clutch fork,the throw-out bearing, or the pressure plate fingers and clutch plate for failure or broken bent parts. I hope it turns out to be a easy fix on that clutching thing.

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I have a 1997 saturn sc2 im trying to bleed the clutch slave cylinder


In this car, there is no bleed port provided. The hydraulic clutch system is closed and is sold only as a complete set of master, reservoir, slave, and line. The set is priced at $130 at autozone.com. I have pasted the replacement instructions from autozone.com below. Please let me know if you have more questions.

See Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4
The master cylinder, pipes and slave cylinder are a complete assembly and must be replaced as a single unit.
  1. Block the clutch pedal to prevent it from being depressed while the slave cylinder is removed from the transaxle.
  2. Remove the air cleaner/intake duct assembly.
  3. Disconnect the negative battery cable first, then the positive cable.
  4. Remove the battery hold-down retainer.
  5. Remove the battery from the vehicle. Store the battery in a safe location, but do not place it on a concrete surface for any long period of time or it will discharge.
  6. Remove the battery tray. Note that one battery tray mounting fastener is only accessible through the fender well.
  7. Rotate the slave cylinder about 1 / 4 turn counterclockwise while pushing toward the bell housing, in order to disengage the connector and remove the cylinder from the clutch housing. Remove the slave cylinder bracket retaining nuts and pull the assembly from the studs.
  8. If equipped with ABS, remove the brake master cylinder-to-power booster mounting nuts. Move the master cylinder off of the mounting studs and slightly toward the engine, being careful not to bend or kink the brake lines.
  9. Remove the master cylinder pushrod retaining clip from the clutch pedal pin and disconnect the pushrod from the pedal.
  10. Rotate the clutch cylinder about 1 / 8 turn clockwise and remove it from the instrument panel. Remove the hydraulic assembly from the vehicle.

To install:
  1. Install the clutch master cylinder into the dashboard with the reservoir leaning toward the driver' fender. Rotate the cylinder about 1 / 8 turn counterclockwise to lock it in position.

When installing a new assembly, the plastic retainer straps should remain in place on the slave cylinder, to ensure that the actuator rod seats on the release fork pocket upon installation. If reinstalling an assembly, be sure to position a new plastic retainer strap onto the end of the pushrod and attach the straps to the cylinder.
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  2. Slide the slave cylinder onto the clutch housing studs, then install the nuts and tighten to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
  3. Insert the slave cylinder into the clutch housing with the hydraulic line facing down and rotate about 1 / 4 turn clockwise while pushing it into the housing.
  4. Lubricate the clutch pedal pin with silicone grease, then connect the pushrod to the clutch pedal and install the retaining clip.
  5. Install the battery tray. Tighten the battery tray mounting fasteners to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
  6. Place the battery into the battery tray. Be careful that the battery terminals do not short against any metal during the installation.
  7. Install the battery hold-down retainer.
  8. Connect the positive battery cable first, then the negative cable.
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  10. Remove the block from behind the clutch pedal and, if equipped, properly enable the SIR system.
  11. Start the engine and check the pedal for proper operation.
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Fig. Fig. 1: Block the clutch pedal to prevent slave cylinder damage, should the pedal be depressed while the cylinder is removed from the transaxle


999d0d2.gif Fig. Fig. 2: To remove, rotate the slave cylinder about 1/4 turn counterclockwise while pushing toward the bell housing

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Fig. Fig. 3: This plastic retaining strap must remain on the slave cylinder to ensure proper seating of the actuator rod against the release fork
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Fig. Fig. 4: Rotate the clutch master cylinder about 1/8 turn clockwise and remove it from the instrument panel


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