Question about Mazda Protege

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1993 Mazda Protege front hub. cannot remove nut, broke two rachets and one breaker bar. this thing will not turn. Any suggestions?

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  • Anonymous Mar 31, 2014

    not a ticking or a knocking, but a clunking. Almost like the mud flap kept hitting tire. Nothing looks broke, but when in motion (unless going faster and faster) it will do this. Just happened today.
    Thank you.

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You need to look to see if the nut is creased in one spot looks like a chisel indentation if so you need to get a flat head punch hammer the crease outward until it looks even with cv joint shaft take a plumbers torch with map gas yellow bottle heat the nut all around about 30 seconds get a breaker bar with a pipe extention break it free make sure your going the right way counter clockwise break free you might have to heat a couple of times spray pentrating oil after you heat goodluck

Posted on Sep 13, 2008

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Except Miata FRONT
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Steering knuckle from the vehicle
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  2. Remove or disconnect the following:
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I need an exploded view diagram to see how the RIGHT FRONT wheel HUB ASSEMBLY is installed on my 1997 Mitsubishi Galant. Will I have to mess with the CV, or is it a "bolt off-bolt on" procedure. I'm very...


db7ecae.gif#2 = Hub assembly.
It is a pretty simple process and yes you need to mess with the CV but not much. An impact wrench will make removing the large nut holding the axle in the hub/bearing a whole lot easier. If you have one great, if not, it would be best to try loosening the nut while the car is on the ground. If your car has steel rims with hubcaps(MAGS, I'd put on the spare for this part), start by removing the hubcap then remove the cotter pin that goes through the threaded part of the axle and keeps the nut from coming loose. You may want to spray on some WD-40 and let it soak a little before u start. A breaker bar and socket work well, if u have just a rachet, try to find a 4 foot metal / aluminum tube (old tent pole) and slip it over the handle to give you some more torque to loosen the nut. Once loose, back the nut off and push on the axle shaft to see if it moves, probably won't, so more WD-40. You can raise and support the car, remove the wheel and brake caliper and rotor, that should be plenty of time for the WD-40 to work. Try moving it again, if it moves great, if not, hammer time. If you have a large puch or something comparable use it, you really don't want to damage threads. Leave the nut on the axle just in case you do hit the thread, when the axle is moving, take the nut off and this will straighten out the thread if it was damaged. Only thing left now is to remove the 4 bolts holding on the HUB/BEARING assembly. Once they're out it should slide off the axle with out any problems. Slide on the new one and bolt it back together. ONE CAUTION to note DO NOT MOVE THE CAR IF THE AXLE NUT ISN'T TIGHT, YOU'LL SCRAP THE BEARING!!! Here is a link just to show you what the hub assembly looks like from both sides. Hope this is of some help.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PAIR-GALANT-FRONT-WHEEL-HUB-BEARING-96-97-98-99-00-01_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem45eebc4965QQitemZ300358060389QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

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